Northern Rhone Visit, May 2009
Condrieu, Ampuis, Cornas, Tain -- France
Tasted Thursday, May 14, 2009 - Sunday, May 17, 2009 by danstrings with 2,914 views
Introduction
I have always adored visiting the Northern Rhone. Far under the radar screen compared to say a Burgundy or Bordeaux, you really get a feeling that you are just wandering villages of humble people whose life is wine. I also find the whites here as exciting as anywhere—I am a sucker for St. Joseph Blancs, Condrieu and Hermitage Blanc. Some of the most mind boggling food and wine experiences I have had have been pairings with stunning white Rhones. And of course the reds are up there too—sexy Syrahs loaded with wild and exotic BBQ cherry cola campfirey goodness (with a dose of Viognier in Cote Rotie for a violet hit). 
After my awesome Burgundy trip (www.cellartracker.com/event.asp?iEvent=7853) I drove due south about 2 hours to Vienne, gateway to the Northern Rhone. The first exit off the Autoroute is for Condrieu/Ampuis, where I promptly started my tasting day with a visit to the dapper gentleman of the Rhone, Rene Rostaing.
Flight 1 - Rene Rostaing (5 Notes)
A true gentleman, all class, and a great English speaker -- Rene Rostaing is a gracious host. I have been visiting him for years, watched the pain he went thru leaving Kermit Lynch (who sounds like they had a few, ahem, differences shall we say), to his eternal debate with Robert Parker on use of oak (Parker wants him to use more). Rostaing loves his '06s, calling them well balanced and classic with good weather and a great windy September. 2007 he calls good, yet ’08 was “difficult” We didn’t try any ‘08s from barrel, so I guess I’ll take his word for it. 
Flight 2 - Lunch at Auberge de la Source, Tupin et Semons (1 Note)
Rostaing told me -- bar none -- his favorite restaurant around was way up in the hills above Condrieu--Auberge de la Source. 
Spectacular views of the Rhone, and absolutely packed with locals, he was dead on. A great prix fixe menu with a smoked trout, roasted local fish and fruit compote. A lovely Cheze blanc was a great match.
Flight 3 - Georges Vernay (6 Notes)
Madame Vernay’s husband Paul is a gracious host and great English speaker. We talked more about local restaurant gossip and importer dirt as opposed to rigid analysis of the wines, but we did take a look at some gems. I guess Beau Rivage losing its one Michelin star hit Condrieu “like an earthquake” haha. 
Flight 4 - Auguste Clape (7 Notes)
Visiting Clape is always a treat because Pierre Marie tastes you on every vineyard and all kinds of gems from the cellar. I met Auguste himself this time, and got to speak with him (in my rusty French) before commencing the visit with his son. Heck, I think I could pass as Auguste's son here, haha:
Pierre Marie likes the ‘06s more than the ‘07s, ’07 seems like it was a pretty cold summer in the north. ’08, which I got to try extensively from barrel, was also a cooler and rainy summer but a good September helped save the day.
Flight 5 - Dinner at Beau Rivage, Condrieu (1 Note)
A few winemakers had told me that Beau Rivage had gone downhill, it had lost its Michelin star and was in a tailspin. I wouldn’t exactly say “tailspin” but I was far from dazzled by dinner. The staff was exactly as it has been my last several visits, low turnover, hehe. Friendly and polite. I actually find the wine list getting a bit tired and uninspiring, and overpriced. The prix fixe menu had some hits (trout and morels) and some misses (a breaded fried shrimp that tasted like it coulda been from a sports bar). One thing about Beau Rivage, sitting on the patio on a beautiful spring day and watching the sun go down on the Rhone while sipping a wine from within a kilometer is pretty hauntingly beautiful.
Flight 6 - Pierre Gaillard (6 Notes)
Pierre Gaillard is one of the leading figures in the Northern Rhone. He teams up with Cuilleron and Villard as an inseparable trio defending the glory of the local wines. They own a restaurant together (see below note about lunch), sometimes make wine from the same vineyard and hold competitions as to who can make a better one, and buddy around all over the Rhone. I spent a pleasant hour with Gaillard’s daughter in the tasting room looking at some of their latest gems. The village of Malleval is just spectacular as well, an absolute jewel in the Northern Rhone.
Flight 7 - Lunch at Bistrot a Vin De Serine in Ampuis (2 Notes)
This is the charming bistro owned by Gaillard, Villard and Cuilleron. Great local dishes, great local wines. Downstairs is more a bar type feel, upstairs is the dining area. You are literally walking distance to Cote Blonde from here.
Flight 8 - Andre Perret (8 Notes)
Always one of my favorite visits, Perret is a true Condrieu fanatic. He'll barrel taste me different parcels, different barrels of Condrieu. He loves Viognier (as do I). His Cuvee Chery is probably one of the top few Condrieus made. He is really careful on oak, using just enough to give a tad of spice (unlike Guigal’s Dorianne which I find as heavy as a Napa Chard). Perret is also very modest and unassuming, a real pleasure to visit. I find his whites more exciting than his reds, but he is putting a lot of focus and energy on his St. Joseph, and they are good spicy assertive reds.
Flight 9 - Dinner at Reclusiere, Condrieu (2 Notes)
A nice little gem in Condrieu, La Reclusiere is a good value yet classy hotel and ambitious little restaurant. An absolutely beautiful old estate, it sure is easy on the eyes:
I stayed here a few nights and dined here one evening. I have dined here many times and always found it a nice, laid back place not trying to be too much but making more effort than just a normal bistro. Not usually busy and for some reason they are against any kind of even low-volume music, so it can be stiflingly quiet in there with just the sounds of the clinking of forks on plates and pots in the kitchen (I wanted to bring my iPod and mini speakers for cryin out loud). A tad expensive for food and wine, but a nice prix fixe menu.
Flight 10 - Delas (7 Notes)
A very pleasant visit to Delas tasting room (tip: open Saturdays, so a good one to save for the weekend) where the tasting room manager had just finished a stint as a sommelier in London. So his English was great, he was enthusiastic, and he led me thru a few of their gems.
Flight 11 - Lunch at Tournesol, Tournon sur Rhône (Hermitage) (1 Note)
Hugely recommended at the Delas tasting room, this lunch was just phenomenal. An explosion of fresh springtime ingredients in every dish. Beautiful historic stone interior with diffuse light everywhere. Perfect jazz playing at just the right background volume. One of the best of the trip, check out the beautiful main course... 
Flight 12 - Chapoutier (13 Notes)
Ahhhh, the pilgrimage to the Chapoutier tasting room. I have been coming here for years and think it is a real gem because it's open Saturday and Sunday, and they actually pour insanely good high end stuff if they sense that you are really interested. And unlike the staggering capitalism of Napa Valley these days where you are in the hole $100 a person in tasting fees and inundated with "wine of the month club" invites by noon, there are no tasting fees or pressures to buy. The tasting room can get busy, and there are 2-3 people behind the bar at any given time. All usually excellent English speakers (sometimes they are interns from Australia or such). Always interesting to watch people -- some locals just come in, taste a Rose, buy a case and leave. I linger as long as possible and try to jostle the single vineyard Hermitages out of the staff, hehe...
Flight 13 - Hike up Hermitage Hill
For those who are ambitious and in somewhat OK shape (I am barely on the edge of that), a hike up Hermitage Hill is a good way to spend an hour or two. Walk along the little street bordering the hill at the end of the street Chapoutier is on and you will see this entrance:
Go up the trail -- it forks off often so "upward" should be your main guide -- take it slow if you need to, some of it is pretty steep. Decent shoes are needed too, some step spots are pretty crumbly and slippery. When you reach the top you will be greeted with gorgeous views and a seat among one of the world's most heralded vineyards...
Flight 14 - Dinner at Chaudron, Tournon sur Rhône (Hermitage) (1 Note)
The "Last Supper" was a goodie, at the legendary Chaudron walking distance from my hotel (Hotel Azalees, great deal). A legendary wine list, not cheap I’d say but amazingly good deals considering what it is (Chaves going way back etc). Was kinda wined out so just had a few glasses of Graillot's beautiful Crozes Blanc. Sat outside on the patio and toasted to an amazing week in the Rhone!
2006 Rene Rostaing Côte-Rôtie Cuvée Classique 89 Points
France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
(5/14/2009)
Tasted at the Domaine with Rene Rostaing -- Rene likes the '06 vintage and calls it "well balanced and elegant". The Classique was fresh and bright, with some good earthy fruit. Not oozing with concentration, but a good grip and good food wine I'd bet.
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2006 Rene Rostaing Côte-Rôtie La Landonne 92 Points
France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
(5/14/2009)
Tasted at the Domaine with Rene Rostaing -- Rene likes the '06 vintage and calls it "well balanced and elegant". The Landonne was a nice step up, demonstrating all that great oozy spicy licorice. Good grip on the palate, not a lush mouthfeel today.
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2006 Rene Rostaing Côte-Rôtie Côte Blonde 93 Points
France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
(5/14/2009)
Tasted at the Domaine with Rene Rostaing -- Rene likes the '06 vintage and calls it "well balanced and elegant". Ahhh, the Cote Blonde. Rostaing's favorite and adored wine. Silky and classy, ripe with great fruit yet refreshing. Loaded with mocha/espresso and tar.
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2003 Rene Rostaing Côte-Rôtie La Landonne 91 Points
France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
(5/14/2009)
Tasted at the Domaine with Rene Rostaing -- Rostaing opened this for me because he says '03s have been maligned as too over the top and lacking balance. He doesn't feel it is that bad, and he likes his '03 Landonne. It IS huge and oozing with juicy fruit, but he and I didn’t find it completely lacking in complexity or balance. Sure, it is a more New-World type syrah with inky juicy grapey fruit, but some nice Cote Rotie-ishness was there too (tar, spice, earth).
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2007 Rene Rostaing Condrieu La Bonnette 93 Points
France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Condrieu
(5/14/2009)
Tasted at the Domaine with Rene Rostaing -- I adore Condrieus so I always talk in depth to Roatsing about his, which I adore. He says the Bonnette is a specific site with great minerality in the soils, so he wants explosive fruit and floral notes balanced with minerality. He says the '06 DID have some residual sugar (as mentioned by Parker and other critics) because of hot weather and having to pick at phenolic ripeness at higher sugar. The '07 Bonette was showing beautifully -- a garden of white flowers (honeysuckle, orange blossom, white rose), but good balance with minerality.
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