It's been a while since I bought any of these so it's fascinating to compare with bottles I made notes on several years ago. A nice pale straw with a hint of green. Amazing fine and powerful bead with an almost perfect cordon of bubbles and creamy mousse in the mouth. Still a little simple at this point but with nascent complexity apparent. The fruit element is something like nashi pear, but with complexing mineral elements of chalk and smoke and hints of riper citrus fruit such as lime. There is plenty of well covered acidity, a slightly denser feel than in the past and a medium length finish. The dosage is moderate and the overall feeling is one of sophisticated dryness. High quality blanc de blancs champagne. A lot of work has gone into this cuvée over the last four or five years and it clearly shows.