1998 Domaine Chandon de Briailles Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru Ile des Vergelesses

Community Tasting Notes (23) Median Score: 91 points

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  2/5/2023 - JohnMcIlwain Likes this wine:

  1998 in the Côte d’Or had a reputation on release for transparency and that may have been a bit of a euphemism for joy-deficiency. Plenty of soil notes, but wine is made with fruit, right? And upon opening this 1998 is seemingly lean, mean, and a not just a little green. No detectable flaws, but game, dirt, tar, dirt, earth, dirt, tobacco and well, dirt dominate the organoleptic impressions. I think there’s some iron and black pepper in there and just a hint of red stone fruit. Overall, the impression is pinched and a bit tired. But upon the advice of Burgundy mensch Keith B. I gave this a decant (and enjoyed a bit of Pharoah Sanders and a couple of martinis). And lo, 90 plus minutes worked wonders, if not miracles. (More finding $50 in a pair of pants from the dry cleaners rather than walking on water, still quite a pleasant turnaround.) The nose is more effusive with bits of violet, red plum flesh and cherry pit, rather than gravel pit. There’s some game here, but more discreet than Marlin Perkins’ (ask your parents) Wild Kingdom. On the palate the acidity is prominent—though enlivening—and the tannins are neatly resolving. Red fruits, a bit of black tea, and a brisk salty core act as a foundation for the wine. Furthermore the energy seems bumped up by time in the decanter. There’s great articulation here, if not flair—more Rod Steiger growl than suave Cary Grant; still it’s a heck of a performance. Very good with pan-roasted magret with a miso, soy, maple glaze and wilted Swiss chard. Pleased if not ecstatic about this showing. That said, i’m happy to have a couple more bottles. Give this some air and there’s a fine bottle of Burgundy here.

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  2/3/2023 - melvinyeowq wrote: 94 Points

  La Paulee 2023: After reading previous notes on CT I was quite apprehensive, but this turned out to be magnificent. For a maker who had a reputation for making hard, rustic wines during this period, this was remarkably elegant and precise. Lifted nose with cassis notes, the structure has receded to leave a wine with saline, purple fruit. Always a joy to catch a Burgundy at its apex. A close second after the 07 Clos Vougeot for me, truly a beautiful wine.

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  10/3/2022 - 559Cheers wrote: 91 Points

  Needs time to breathe. Lean and austere, but still seems vibrant.

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  9/20/2022 - JJKinch wrote: 92 Points

  Opened an hour or so before drinking. Did not decant.
  Red fruit (cherry, raspberry), nice spice, slight violet, rose, slight earth, agree with below. Reminiscent of a Barolo. Good acidity.

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  6/4/2022 - MuddyBoots wrote:

  Label is 1999 but cork is branded 1998 - and Claude told me at the Paulee in NY in 2022 that the cork is determinative. Hard not to be disappointed, but all my vintage 1999 bottles so far (now 3) have had this inaccurate labelling. Like all 1998s this benefited from 90 minutes of air - but is still pretty lean, lacking charm and generosity, notwithstanding the warmth of the vintage. Notes of iron/minerals and herbs. Grippy tannins, with some dryness. Absolutely needs food. Broadly I have found the 1998 vintage lacking interest in the Cotes de Beaune and this did nothing to change my view. I think you simply must decant them quite a while. Probably best to drink these fairly soon and just move on, though the next day the wine showed a little more sweetness. Bought on release.

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