Nice to get a chance to try this one amidst all the buzz about the 2009s, courtesy of Marty L. with a perfect tea-smoked duck at the new Upper West Side Grand Sichuan. It's bricked in color and initially had a musty odor that got us worried, but it didn't take more than a minute for that to dissipate and leave a smack of old-school Burgundian horse-stable in its wake along with a savory meat-brothy kind of thing. It still has some unresolved structure and I go back and forth between wondering whether it needs another year or two to become perfectly à point or whether it's so precarious in its current state that a big gust of wind would be enough to knock it over the hill. I'm nudged to the former by the fact that it seems to hold up in the glass awhile so perhaps it's not quite as frail and delicate as it feels. Full of character and of course a convincing argument to hold on to your Beaujolais.
OK, finished last bottle of six of 02 Lapierre no SO2. Peppery. Every bottle fairly different; two superb, two ok, two fair. Lots of brett and volatility in most. Bottles seemed well treated, good corks, etc. Draw your own conclusions.
Simultaneously lovely and primal, with berries, plum, and pronounced floral aromas floating above an earthy, musky core. On the palate, it's light-bodied with bright berry and rhubarb flavors and a surprisingly tannic punch that makes me wonder if I should have waited a couple more years. More importantly, this wine makes me wonder why, at $21 a bottle, I didn't buy a hell of a lot more.
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