Golden honey color in the glass. Nose of pineapple, light creme brullee. I found the palate still fresh with layers of honey, light apricot, orange. Being 40 years, it has a very mild hint of earthy age to it, but one that complements the fruit more than anything. Nice acidity, but at a level that matches the citrus composition of the wine. Nothing near the sumptuousness of it's southern sauterne kin, but rather a fruitier, fresher desert wine that rarely fails to disappoint.
Dinner Chez Sugarman (NYC): This was very pretty to behold as the wine filled the glass, a lovely yellow-gold color. Somewhat tight at first, with air it began to really open up, with aromas of honeycomb, lanolin, wax, quince, pineapple, lemon and peaches. The notes were very fresh and vibrant for a wine of this age, and there was no sign of oxydation. The mouthfeel was slightly waxy, and offered up similar elements in a beautifully layered presentation. The sweetness was evident on the attack, but slowly faded away, almost curtsying aside to let the fruit flavors shine, and the acidity at the back swept in and slowly cleansed your palate. Not too heavy nor too light, this was what I would call a very balanced wine. Everything was in its place, nothing cried out for attention, like an orchestra where all the instruments are working together to form a wonderful crescendo.
TN: Eric Levine comes to NYC. (Beacon Restaurant): This bottle is showing its age a bit as the sweetness has faded more than other bottles and there's a bit more of an oxidative note to the wine. The usual quince, pineapple and mineral flavors and aromas are there, as is the bitter note I usually find on the finish. The acidity is still vibrant and the wine still provides a nice window into what aged Chenin is about, but I'd start drinking these up. B+.
New Year's Eve Celebration at Steve & Barb's house. Dark gold upon pouring with a very complex melange of flavor/scent sensations that included honeycomb, beeswax and lanolin. Medium bodied with some sweetness showing on the front of the palate which quickly dissipated into the complexity of the wine. Long finish is rather ethereal, just sort of lingering and then dissipating, never a bit heavy. Certainly a pointe right now and probably the finest showing we've yet had for a bottle of this wine. 50+14+13+9+9 = 95
Professional reviews have copyrights and you can view them here for your personal use only as private content. To view pro reviews you must either subscribe to a pre-integrated publication or manually enter reviews below. Learn more.