Achim's Magnum Tasting 2015

Behrens am Kai in Düsseldorf 1 star restaurant

Tasted December 16, 2015 by aquacongas with 579 views

Introduction

26 magnums, most of them great old Bordeaux , unbelievable La Tache 1940 and Winston Churchill 1975.

Flight 1 (1 note)

White - Sparkling
1975 Pol Roger Champagne Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill France, Champagne
98 points
Great start into the Magnum evening. A hint of fine oxidation signs in the nose. In the palate feels still very young after roasted hazelnuts, caramell, butterscotch, powerful, refreshing acidity, very long clean finish, very comparable to CdC 1976 but a little bit less complex, 97-98.

Flight 2 (1 note)

White
2013 Morlet Family Vineyards La Proportion Doree USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
94 points
This was an additional bottle, served blindly. I guessed white Bordeaux, but it was Californian, Sem/SB/Muscadelle. Very fresh, precise and cool colimate, the barrique is perfectly integrated. Smells like wet stone and herbal. For me my reminder for Sem/SB, some nuts in the long clean finish. 94-95

Flight 3 (1 note)

Red
1940 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, La Tâche Grand Cru
98 points
Wow, perfect filling. The nose is unbelievable: espresso powder, fresh roasted tobacco leaves, licorice, dark chocolate, classical Burgundy style, my second la tache so I don't know if it is a marker especially for La Tache, but some people said it was representative for this site. Very elegant, deep and concentrated, great length. With air and time gaining in the palate as roasted coffee beans, still present crispy acidity. In the nose 100, in the palate 95 makes 98, especially for his age

Flight 4 (2 notes)

Red
1955 Château Cheval Blanc France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
flawed
unfortunately cork.
Red
1955 Château Lynch-Bages France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
98 points
A Barriere Bottling. Crazy intensive nose after cassis and dark berries, some truffles, in the palate slender and elegant, the fine acidity gives the wine a strong backbone, the tannis are still present and silky, great effort, still well drinkable over the next years, at least from magnum, 97-98

Flight 5 (1 note)

Red
1999 Virginie de Valandraud France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
91 points
this bottle was from DMG as table wine. It shows a nice primary fruit of sour cherry and red currant, between thisblo ckbuster it felt a little bit too easygoing, missing length and deepness, a somehow too rustic, 90-91

Flight 6 (2 notes)

Red
1966 Château Cheval Blanc France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
97 points
Very rustic and elegant likewise. Nice roasted aromas as cacao and coffee. Some truffles and leather. In the beginning it felt well aged but with time showing still a fruity side of concentrated dark berries, a powerful gigant 97-98
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
1953 Château Gruaud Larose France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
98 points
Tobacco, roasted coffee beans, truffle, leather, very concentrated, livid acidity, long finish after cigar box, feels much younger, great wine 98-99

Flight 7 (2 notes)

Red
1961 Château Montrose France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe
97 points
A lot of rips tannins and fresh acidity, red and dark berries, cassis, eukalytus and mint, for me too young, decanted for two hours, maybe needs more time, 97-98
Red
1959 Château Pape Clément France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
94 points
fresh roasted aromas, leather, tobacco, coffee, not as great as the 61 ones in depth and concentration, good length

Flight 8 (2 notes)

Red
1961 Château Gruaud Larose France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
98 points
sensationell fresh, vibrant acidity, great tanninstructure, still a lot of fine black currant, tobacco, roasted coffee beans and leaves, dark chocolate, very long clean finish, at least 2 more decades drinkable, I think not at his peak. 98-100
Red
1971 Pétrus France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
97 points
Really a special wine, very different in the nose to all the other blockbusters, fresh picked tobacco leaves, some herbals, spicy as an oriental market,t he softest and silky tannins of all wines and inth e palate not that convincing. the acidity is feelable but very pleasant and not intrusive. A great bottle with a longfi ne finish. Many of the other drinkers gave 100 points.

Flight 9 (2 notes)

Red
1982 Château Cheval Blanc France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
97 points
Still a lot of fruit and acidity, ripe cassis and cherries, powerful but a gigant smartening from his sleep. Reluctant in the nose but a melting extract sweetness in the palate, silky tannins, long finish with aftertaste of forrest strawberries
2 people found this helpful Comment
Red
1982 Château Gruaud Larose France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
96 points
A gigant still bounded. The acidity and the firm tannin structure is dominating over the tobacco leaves,, fresh made espresso. FOR ME NOT TOTALLY round and balanced. At this stage 96 points. We will see what will the future will show.
1 person found this helpful Comment

Flight 10 (2 notes)

Red
1983 Château Margaux France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux
99 points
For me the WOTN. Very perfumed but plesant scent afterfresh cutten flowers and cassis. You can smell the elegance.inthe palate you have cassis accomanied with cedarwood and roasted coffee, very powerful in the finish. The most important fact is that the acidity gives him an endless freshness. Beautiful.
4 people found this helpful Comment
Red
1983 Château Latour Grand Vin France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
93 points
Compared to Margaux 1983 much "weaker". Especially the nose is more closed. I was suprised it feels less powerful than his neighbour. The palate shows a fine cassis note. middlelong Finish. I think won't get better. ith aging.

Flight 11 (2 notes)

Red
1990 Château Lafite Rothschild France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
95 points
Gun powder, a lot of cassis, licorice and pencil tip, very young, well integrated barrique but showing a rough acidity, firm tannins present, long finish crying for more aging, typical lafite in my opinion
1 person found this helpful Comments (3)
Red
1988 Château Lafleur France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
96 points
Very special in the nose: flowers and spice market, maybe comparable to the Petrus 1971, a good concentration. The wine impresses with his elegance and balance

Flight 12 (2 notes)

Red
1982 Château Léoville Las Cases France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
95 points
Very tight wine, doesn't show us his potential beauty. Firm and strong ripe tannins but not completely evolved. Cassis is crying: "hello I'm still here". Not perfectly balanced today. 96+
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
1986 Silver Oak Cabernet Sauvignon Bonny's USA, California, Napa Valley
90 points
served blindly, decent fruit notes, some dill in the nose, some herbal aspects, good acidity but the finish is middlelong and a little bit bitter, not the class ofthe other wines

Flight 13 (2 notes)

Red
1998 Château Lafite Rothschild France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
94 points
At this stage clearly tooyoung , especially from MG. The cassisfru it is dominating. This is not so bad but minimal secondary and tertiary notes. Good acidity and tannin structure. Needs atleast 7-10 more years of bottle aging. 94?
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
1990 Château Lynch-Bages France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
92 points
I don't know if the bottle was really correct, greatno se but missing it in the mouth, some people thought about a cork,but I don'tbelieve it, compared to LB 89 much smaller. I should retry it again, 91-92

Flight 14 (2 notes)

Red
2009 Domaine Ponsot Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
93 points
In my opinion good acidity structure but the alcohol is noticeable and a sign too strong,sweet concentration of red berries, soft ripe tannins, but sensible on the palate,long fruity finish, 93, maybe 95 in the futute
Red
2009 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Bonnes Mares France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru
94 points
Compared to Ponsot Clos de la Roche VV 2009 more licorice and sweet fruit, rounder and more balanced, some roses, tar and dark chocolate, 94-95

Flight 15 (1 note)

Red
2001 Domaine de la Mordorée Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée de la Reine des Bois France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
94 points
The last red wine of the evening, Maybe I was tired, but I felt the alcohol, red berries, especially cherries and blueberries, extract sweetness, good length, needs some more time in the glas, 94-95

Closing

Margaux 1983 was my WOTH, My other three favorites Gruaud Larose 1953 and 1961 and Lynch Bages 1955.

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