Zachys Icons of Italy Tasting

Zachys
Tasted Tuesday, September 19, 2006 by trankin with 1,231 views

Introduction

Zachys put on a nice Italian tasting tonight. I was fortunate enough to be able to attend both the main tasting and a pre-tasting event with Antonio Galloni where I was able to enjoy some other wines with more time to contemplate them.

The first 4 flights are from the earlier tasting. In most cases, I didn't bother rating the wines - they were just too young and tannic for me to be able to get a really good read on them. I have to say I was a bit disappointed in the showing of the older vintages. To a one, they came across older than they should have IMO.

The last three "flights" I organized based on the table layout at Zachys. Take these all with a big grain of salt. Not only did they follow the prior 4 flights, but they were very small pours and quick tastes with some brief notes jotted down.

Flight 1 - The first flight (3 Notes)

A treat to try these wines, but they're all so young they're difficult to call. My understanding is they were opened but not decanted at 11am for a 5pm tasting.

  • 2000 Giuseppe E Figlio Mascarello Barolo Monprivato

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

    Gorgeous, ethereal nose. Elegant red fruit and limestone, with a touch of cinnamon or nutmeg.

    On the palate, this is a tannic monster. Everything is in perfect balance and harmony, with the striking exception of the tannins. Beautiful aromatics, great bright red fruit, a touch of cedar, some great acids. Needs many, many years. Probably would give this a low-90's score based on this showing but given how young it is I have difficulty knowing.

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  • 1999 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cascina Francia

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

    A less pronounced nose than the Monprivato. Some alcohol, some good fruit, a bit of tree bark. Over the 20-30 mins or so, the nose improved and became a bit more perfumy. On the palate, lots of fruit, with a touch of something sweet - some cherry maby. Loads of tannin (although less than the Monprivato). Almost rounded yet somehow not. Needs a decade or more. Probably a low-90's score based on this showing but it's too young to know.

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  • 1999 Poderi Aldo Conterno Barolo Riserva Granbussia

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

    Nose is bigger again, though not as big or beautiful as the Monprivato. More fruit, more power. A strong dark red fruit on the nose with just a touch of spice. On the palate, this is the most approachable of the 3. Great big strawberries, cedar. Lovely elegant wine with loads of acids and fruit. Needs at least 5-10 years, has alot longer than that to go. AG suggested the 99 of this would be very similar to the 78. Based on this showing, probably a low- to mid-90's score but this is too young to evaluate IMO.

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Flight 2 - Second Flight (3 Notes)

Now we're getting to some really interesting stuff. These were at least beginnig to be approachable. The Rocca e La Pira I'm very glad I have a few bottles to go through in the next couple decades.

  • 1996 Roagna Barolo Riserva La Rocca e La Pira

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

    Nose of leather, dark red fruit, and subtle spices. This is very dark red, apparently a result of the cool vintage. On the palate, this is drinking with big, but not oppressive tannins. The fruit has taken over at this point and is maybe even a touch too much. To my taste, this should come together beautifully with an appropriate balance and harmony of tannins, fruit, acids, etc in about 5-10 years and will be very elegant then. Darker fruits, earth, some structural tannins, tobacco, dark strawberries, leather. A beautifully constructed wine. Probably low- to mid-90's for this.

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  • 1997 Giuseppe E Figlio Mascarello Barolo Ca d'Morissio Riserva Monprivato

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

    Only the 3rd vintage this wine was made. The nose is big acidic fruit, with some forest floor. The palate is totally different. Bright red, and sweeter. Cherries, strawberries. Lots of dark earth hidden under the fruit. This is beginning to come out of its shell but still needs time. Lovely balance, except the acids are still a bit overpowering (at least without food).

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  • 1998 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

    Nose of light red fruits - cherries - and a little white pepper. On the palate, it's gorgeous pure fruit with acids, tannins and not alot else at this point. The purity of the fruit is really just wonderful, and there is a touch of darkness underneath - but will this evolve into something sufficiently complex to be great? Quite round for a young nebbiolo. Drinking reasonably well, but will clearly improve with time. I've only had one other wine with purity of fruit this striking - very intriguing, but I really don't know how it will shape up over time.

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Flight 3 - Third Flight (3 Notes)

I expected more from these wines. I did like the Cascina Francia quite a bit, but I'm really hoping the bottle I have for an off-line in a few weeks shows even better - or at least younger.

  • 1997 Podere Rocche dei Manzoni Barolo Vigna Cappella di Santo Stefano 92 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

    Lush, earthy nose. Quite approachable. Great round fruit, with some wonderful structure underneath. The tannins are integrated and softer. 92+

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  • 1990 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Riserva Collina Rionda 91 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

    Dirt and sous-bois on the nose. On the palate, an elegant caramel and old fruit, with some earth. Candied fruits. Figs. Im amazed the fruit is as weak and old-tasting as it is. If I were to guess, I'd guess this is an 82 or older. Very nice, but not a truly great wine. I suspect this wine had less than perfect storage conditions, which is disappointing given the tasting.

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  • 1990 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cascina Francia 93 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

    Quite an earthy nose, with a touch of barnyard. On the palate, it's soft, full, earthy, and luscious. AG pointed out and iron-like, meaty element, which he was spot on. This bottle was well into its maturity window, but not yet fully mature. Will go 5-10 years more based on this bottle. Like the 90 Giacosa I think this bottle had less than optimal storage conditions and suffered from premature maturity as a result. I'll find out in a few weeks when I pop another bottle. Still, a really nice wine and I'm glad I have one to open soon.

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Flight 4 - Flight Four (2 Notes)

The Rinaldi was nice, but past prime, the Gaja was way over the hill IMO.

  • 1967 Francesco Rinaldi e Figli Barolo 89 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

    Earthy, forest floor on the nose. A touch of funk as well. On the palate, this is a smooth, gentle wine. Round and elegant, with caramel, fruit, and cola. Holding together but definitely time to drink up based on this bottle. I wouldn't be surprised if there are bottles showing better than this, based on the condition of some of the wines tonight. I suspect this bottle would have been much better 5 years ago.

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  • 1971 Gaja Barbaresco

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

    This is thin and brown. Gradually becomes a darker brown. like a nut. Very caramel, not alot of fruit. This bottle is over the hill. NR

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Flight 5 - Table 1 (1 Note)

I only tried a single glass from table one. Meant to go back for a couple 01 barolos but never made it.

Flight 6 - Table 2 (8 Notes)

Tried most of the wines at this table. The Roagna Nebbiolo was my clear QPR winner of the night And the 01 Cascina Francia was just a joy and my WOTN.

What I find most amazing is how well the CF was able to show tonight, poured straight from the bottle (I believe) while so many other wines were so incredibly tight and even closed down. That CF is clearly going to be a wonderful wine though. Picked up a 6-pack!

Flight 7 - Table 3 (10 Notes)

Some nice stuff on this table. I was a bit disappointed in the Brunello's, excluding the Pertimali. I thought the Bartolo Mascarello 01 was just gorgeous stuff, but then I followed that up with the Santo Stefano and the Gaja SSL. I'd take the Bartolo over the Santo Stefano (at least at this point) but the SSL would take precedence if I didn't care about the price. $ for $, the Bartolo has the others hands down.

Closing

A very nice night. Got to run into a few others from this BB. Met Antonio Galloni. Drank some good wines. What more could I want?

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