Impromtu Dinner with Michael Jessen - 96 Champanges and Red Burgundy Dinner

Michael informed me that he will be in town. It was a quick visit with a couple of his colleagues. Luckily some of the usual suspects were able to join and we had a full house. It was interesting to hear that Michael thinks that NYC will once again be the most important city of wine auction.

For me, the Dom and CdC are definitely catching up with the Krug and Salon. I am not making a stylistic comparison but the enjoyment level.

• 2009 François Raveneau Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons 94 Points

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru

  For me, Raveneau is not the most delicate and complex wine yet it consistently has provided some of the best Burgundy drinking experiences. This is even more coiled than the last bottle. A hint of citrus fruits, wet stone, salt, saline, chalk and honey. No longer any hints of primary fruits, really very Chablis and very Raveneau. I can picture sucking a lime wedge with a pinch of salt then leaking a cold wet stone.

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• 1996 Krug Champagne Vintage Brut 96 Points

  France, Champagne

  Just like the last bottle, quit soft and warm. Very vinous nose, noticeable red fruits, baked apple, sweet, brioche and mineral. Shy mousse, expansive, warm, sweet, good acidity and length. Quite lovely but not the best showing and not as good as the Dom and the CdC in this occasion.

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• 1996 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon 97 Points

  France, Champagne

  Served slightly warmer than usual and that is a good thing as it is more wine like. Lovely sweet yellow fruits, lemon candy, fresh granny smith, sweet spices, mineral and honey. Fine mousse, sweet fruit driven palate impression, bright acidity and long finish. Quite intense and expressive. Although still youthful really delicious. At this point, the 96 Dom shows less bottle variation than the Krug and Salon.

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• 1996 Taittinger Champagne Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut 97 Points

  France, Champagne

  Another excellent showing. Expressive nose displaying sweet yellow fruits, lemon curd, cream, smoke, ash and ginger. I wrote “a great 20 year old puligny montrachet 1er crus” in my previous TN and I find this really interesting as I wrote “A Chevalier or Chablis”. Very Burgundian. Very fine mousse, excellent concentration, rich sweet fruit driven palate impression and lovely long finish. This is a great stuff! I highly recommend.

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Both fresh!

• 2000 Marc Colin et Fils Chevalier-Montrachet 94 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru

  Michael brought two bottles worrying that they may be premoxed. The color tells us that no need to worry. This is very Chevalier, decadent yet delicate. Expressive nose of ripe yellow fruits, candied lemon, yellow peach, honey, spicy spices, sesame and smoke. Excellent concentration, oily palate, and bright acidity. I thought the finish was not as long as the nose suggested Nevertheless, a very good Chevalier that is a great pleasure to drink.

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• 2000 François Raveneau Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru

  Since the fruit is pretty much in the background now, the oyster shell is the most dominant note. Subtle notes of lemon and honey, oyster shell and limestone. Medium body, noticeable mineral and steel, bright acidity and lovely finish. Quite fresh and succulent. Not a big wine but a classic Reveneau with subtle fruit expression.

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• 1990 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Ruchottes-Chambertin Clos des Ruchottes 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru

  I am a big fan of the recent vintages of this wine. My understating is that the domaine didn’t treat this and the other GCs as well as the Chambertin, CdB and CSJ in the past. Tom who brought the wine said this showed really well with two hours of air. Unfortunately I was only able to follow the wine for an hour. Mostly tertiary and a bit rustic nose with very ripe impression of the vintage, mostly very fruit driven, plum, dry cherry, stewed tomato, mushroom, sous bois, bloody steak, iron and earth. Medium concentration, a bit rustic, good acidity, mineral and a hint of dry tannins. I didn’t find much of the decadent and intense yet delicate and airy Rousseau signature in this wine. Perhaps it needed a bit more air but the wine remain ripe and rustic for me. A great privilege to try but I am not a buyer in lieu of the current price.

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• 2001 Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Fuées 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru

  Still showing very young. Lovely very clean nose, blackberry driven nose with blue to black fruit impression, kind of surprising as I was expecting more red fruits, sweet spices, a hint of dark milk chocolate (lactic/roasted), stem and mineral. Medium concentration, youthful blue fruit palate impression, good acidity and clean medium/long finish. Not a terribly complex wine and not much sign of tertiary notes. Very easy to appreciate as the wine shows a lot of energy and purity.

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• 1995 Domaine Anne Gros Richebourg 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Richebourg Grand Cru

  Black fruit driven nose with a hint of caramel, also Vosne spice, lactic, roasted nuts and mineral. Excellent concentration, sweet black fruit driven palate impression and a hint of rustic tannins. The nose is not too expressive and considering the pedigree, the palate is not really polished. I would think that another five to ten years of cellaring will help a lot.

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• 1990 Domaine A.-F. Gros Richebourg 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Richebourg Grand Cru

  Having tasted an incredible bottle of the 93 version, my expectation was set really high. A recent purchase from an auction with excellent appearance. Rather shy nose, a hint of black fruits, stewed blackberries, dark spices, sassafras, caramel and earth. Excellent concentration and integrated tannins. I was hoping for an expressive complex wine with tension and precision a la the 93. Unfortunately the fruit was a bit too stewed and masking whatever that could be underneath. Perhaps just wait for another ten years?

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• 1996 Domaine Robert Arnoux / Arnoux-Lachaux Romanée St. Vivant 95 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Romanée St. Vivant Grand Cru

  Justin C seems to have an endless supply and I am happy to be a beneficiary. Expressive floral nose, raspberry, blackberry, sweet and spicy spices, mushroom, truffle and Vosne spices. Excellent concentration, clean and pure sweet red fruit driven palate impression, bright acidity and seamless lovely finish. Drinking beautifully but it will benefit from additional ten years of cellaring, resulting in more tertiary notes.

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• 2010 Domaine Dujac Clos de la Roche 96 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru

  The overall impression is very similar to the bottle from a year ago. There is a young Cab like intensity. Intense red fruits, raspberry and cherry, sweet spices, strong presence of mineral and beautiful beguiling floral note. Excellent concentration, intense sweet red fruit driven palate impression, bright acidity and noticeable yet sweet and nicely integrated tannins. A great example of the 10 GC from one of the top producers; pure and fresh fruits, great tension and precision and perfect balance.

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• 2008 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanée St. Vivant 96 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Romanée St. Vivant Grand Cru

  I have had a number of the 08 DRCs, no RC of course, and they seem to be quite open and ready. For me, they seem to show almost tertiary like flavor profile. Perhaps it can be attributed to noticeable stem note which, combined with the typical 08 vintage fruit expression, gives very exotic notes a la cannabis. Exotic nose displaying ripe a bit dry red and black fruits, stems/green that adds complexity , cannabis, Vosne spices, mushroom, white pepper and milk chocolate. Good concentration, silky palate, ripe fruit palate expression and nicely integrated tannins. Very enjoyable already but it will be interesting to observe in ten years when the stem quality gets integrated.

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• 2009 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Combe aux Moines Vieille Vigne 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

  Cool blue fruits, sap, sweet spices, mineral, lavender and earthy which I get from the 09 Fourriers in general. Excellent concentration, cool, pure and clean blue fruit driven palate impression, bright acidity and nicely integrated tannins. I am aware that my statement may be controversial but I find a lot of similarity with the 09 Le Moine Cazetiers, ie generous opulent yet cool blue fruit driven, earthy Gevrey notes, mineral and purity. This is simply delicious but will age gracefully for at least a couple of decades. Served next to the 10 Dujac CDR and the 08 DRC RSV but didn’t really suffer. Really enjoyable wine.

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Both were really enjoyable

• 1989 Château d'Yquem 96 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes

  Another half from the Justin’s batch. Expressive nose displaying apricot, mango, yellow peach, dry apricot, botrytis a la ginger which was more noticeable than the previous bottles, baking spices and crème brulee. As usual, intense and dense yet so silky and airy. I love the palate expression of D’Yquem.

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• 1994 Zind-Humbrecht Pinot Gris Clos Windsbuhl Vendange Tardive 95 Points

  France, Alsace

  The overall nose expression is refreshing, mango, dry apricot, orange, orange rind, honey and sweet and spicy spices. Excellent concentration, quite dense and ripe but the bright acidity keeps the wine fresh. The finish is long and seamless. I am usually not a fan of Pinot Gris but this is a very special bottle, intense yet harmonious.

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It was great to see Michael once again. The grill room did a great job hosting us once again. Thanks go to DC winos who were able to join in such a short notice.
Wally’s auction is coming up soon and I wish a great success!