HDH auction at Spiaggia

Chicago, IL
Tasted Thursday, May 17, 2018 - Saturday, May 19, 2018 by acyso with 463 views

Flight 1 (10 Notes)

  • 2008 André Clouet Champagne Brut Millésimé 88 Points

    France, Champagne

    (5/17/2018)

    A lean and zippy champagne with ample citric acidity and freshness. A fairly nice hit of minerality as well, but I feel that the back end finishes slightly bitter. Overall, a well-executed and pleasant champagne, with enough fruit to balance the heightened acidity of the vintage.

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  • 2009 Trimbach Riesling Cuvée Frédéric Emile 90 Points

    France, Alsace

    (5/17/2018)

    Beautifully perfumed and floral nose, with a bit of lemongrass and pineapple. It's clearly a broader wine, but with the requisite acidity to round out the palate. A little heady, but no waxiness here at all. Very concentrated and ripe, but it feels balanced just the same. It doesn't have the linearity that I prize in CSH, but this feels like a very successful rendition of CFE nonetheless.

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  • 1990 Diamond Creek Cabernet Sauvignon Volcanic Hill 90 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley, Diamond Mountain

    (5/17/2018)

    Lovely, classically styled Napa cabernet. I'm not sure I pick up any volcanic sulphur on the wine here (that was a joke). Classic cabernet aromas, with a little bit of leather, some earth and wood, a gentle mix of red and black fruit. The palate is also restrained and shows a gentle bit of leather and freshness. Great acidity here, this is fully resolved and drinking very well now.

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  • 2010 Thierry Allemand Cornas Reynard 95 Points

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas

    (5/17/2018)

    Wow. Classic Cornas nose with silky black fruit. So powerful and elegant, with incredible sweetness and spice. Earthy and animale, but polished and clean, this is just exactly what Allemand ought to be. The palate has great fruit, with amazing density. Earthy, perfumed, and beautiful. The acidity gives this incredible lift. Allemand is clearly the reigning master of Cornas.

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  • 2014 Château Haut-Bailly 90 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    (5/17/2018)

    A lovely nose with a good red and black fruit mix. Really light and elegant, with generous fruit and some good minerality. Light and judiciously used oak here, this is a pleasant and easy-drinking young Bordeaux.

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  • 2015 Alfred Merkelbach Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Auslese #9 'Urgluck' 95 Points

    Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

    (5/17/2018)

    #09-16, 9.5% abv. Absolutely brilliant riesling, and really, one of the best "large" production wines of the vintage. Lovely sweetness, but herbal and balanced. Spicy, elegant, and rounded. Incredible linearity and precision here. What I love about this wine is the modern sweetness, but the classical sensibility. But the biggest surprise is how this actually hasn't shut down at all.

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  • 2015 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave St. Joseph 90 Points

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, St. Joseph

    (5/17/2018)

    This is an impressive, large-scaled rendition of the Chave St. Joseph. Tons of black fruit, and a somewhat dense texture. This definitely doesn't have any meat or saline or much of the savoury elements, just a wall of fruit and tannin. A little tricky to assess right now; I'm pretty certain that this needs a lot of time.

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  • 1996 Domaine des Perdrix Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Aux Perdrix 93 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru

    (5/17/2018)

    A very lovely bottle of 1996 Burgundy -- a lovely nose of red fruit and earth, with a really incredible spiciness to it. The palate is definitely on the acidic side, as is normal for the vintage, but there's so much earth, spice, and red fruit here.

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  • 2014 Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier Chambolle-Musigny 93 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny

    (5/17/2018)

    Very lovely -- there's a serenity here that I find very much to my liking. It's gentle, sweet, and pretty. Silky and tender, with fruit that is perfectly ripe without any signs of overripeness at all. Great acidity, minerality, and perfume. Delicious.

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  • 2009 Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese 93 Points

    Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

    (5/17/2018)

    #24-10, 8% abv. Really lovely. The nose shows a little bit of the old school Pruem funk and sulphur, but this is getting under control. The palate is extremely sweet and ripe, and there's just a slight hint of something that might make me think of a roasted character, but for the most part it is under control. Definitely on the sweeter side, and the acidity isn't as bracing as it could be. This seems to be slightly shut down still, and might be emerging from its adolescence in a few years.

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Flight 2 (6 Notes)

  • NV Ruinart Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut 90 Points

    France, Champagne

    (5/18/2018)

    Moderately high-toned nose, with some aromas of pear, a bit of toasted brioche, and some almonds. Not particularly complex on the palate, but there's some nice toasty qualities as well as some white fruit on the palate. I'm guessing this is a recent release: there's seems to be a touch of white grape juice.

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  • 2016 Domaine Henri Boillot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos de la Mouchère 93 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru

    (5/18/2018)

    What a treat to have this twice in rapid succession. Slightly reduced nose, with some lovely mineral notes, as well as some generously applied oak. The palate is saline and slightly smoky, with a delicacy that seems to be hidden by the large-scaled facade of the oak. But there's lovely elegance here, with bracing acidty and freshness, and a lovely mineral cut through everything. The youthful white grape sweetness from a wine recently bottled seems to have quieted down. Needs a year or two to settle down, but I think this is one of the better iterations of this great wine that I can remember.

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  • 2012 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Asili 90 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

    (5/18/2018)

    A gentle, floral nose, with some pretty red fruit as well. A hint of cherry as well which is just lovely. The palate is obviously young and shows just a tad simple right now. It's a lighter wine, with good acidity and freshness, and definitely focusses heavily on the bright fruit of the vintage. This doesn't strike me as a wine that will ever become profound, but this is delicious now and a bit of secondary development with a moderate amount of age will probably add a lot of complexity.

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  • 1997 Antinori Tignanello 88 Points

    Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT

    (5/18/2018)

    The nose on this is a little concerning, with the plummy fruit starting to show a slight sign of browning and decay. There's a good bit of earthiness here, and some herbal notes but the ripeness doesn't do this wine many favours. The palate is just slightly stewy, and there's not much vibrancy left. Seems to me that this has already seen its best days.

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  • 1990 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese #6 90 Points

    Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

    (5/18/2018)

    #06-91, 8% abv. I was absolutely enthralled to have the chance to taste this, as Fritz Haag made an absolutely killer lineup in 1990. This bottle I initially thought was corked, but I think with the benefit of some more air, what actually was bottle funk blew off. The palate is lean and crisp, with nary a hint of botrytis. Really good herbal notes and mouthwatering acidity. Seems a little more like a rich Spaetlese than an Auslese -- in fact, without reading the label initially, I thought that this was indeed the lower Praedikat.

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  • 2005 Dönnhoff Oberhäuser Brücke Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel 93 Points

    Germany, Nahe

    (5/18/2018)

    #14-06, 7.5% abv. From half bottle. Slightly green nose, probably thanks to a moderate herbal character. There's a generous amount of honey and fruit on the nose as well, but it's not overblown. The palate is hefty and sweet, but there's enough acidity and cut here to balance it out. Soft, but not flabby. There's a curious mineral streak hidden beneath the folds of the fruit that give this structure. Plenty of acidity too. Drinking well, this is definitely in the window for me.

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Flight 3 (18 Notes)

  • 2007 Delamotte Champagne Blanc de Blancs Millésimé 88 Points

    France, Champagne

    (5/19/2018)

    A fairly tight nose with some white and yellow fruit, as well as some slight biscuit aromas. The palate is lean and crisp, with great citrus-driven acidity, as well as a dense chalkiness. To me, this is a little more acidic than it needs to be, but there is just a hint of sweetness that does help to round it out. Perhaps the fruit could have been a little bit more prominent?

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  • 2013 La Clarté de Haut-Brion Blanc 85 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    (5/19/2018)

    Slightly grassy nose, with a generous amount of coconut and oak. The palate shows a touch of kiwi and gooseberry, but it's really the oak that pokes through too much on the palate. A bit chewy and astringent thanks to that oak. Well-made, but really not my style -- too thick, waxy, and heavy.

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  • 2002 AR.PE.PE. Valtellina Superiore - Sassella Riserva Rocce Rosse Flawed

    Italy, Lombardia, Valtellina, Valtellina Superiore - Sassella

    (5/19/2018)

    Corked.

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  • 1993 Domaine Michel Gaunoux Beaune 83 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune

    (5/19/2018)

    Definitely something you don't see every day. A perfectly kept bottle; this is clearly sound. The nose doesn't show very much; it's a little bit muted, but there's some red fruit and brown spice if you look for it. The palate is sound, but it's mostly acid. Lights are on, but nobody's home?

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  • NV Agrapart Champagne Grand Cru Terroirs Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut 88 Points

    France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru

    (5/19/2018)

    Lot May 2014; disgorged February 2017, 5 g/L dosage. Quite mineral and lean on the nose and palate, and to be honest, none of that dosage shows through. This is an intense wine, with tons of acidity and tart apple flavours. The finish is long, but it's mostly just the acidity here. Not really my cup of proverbial tea.

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  • 2014 Stein Cabernet Merlot trocken 80 Points

    Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

    (5/19/2018)

    #21-16, 12.5% abv. Gamay-like fruitiness here. Smoky nose, with some pleasant green notes on the nose. The palate, however, is clearly underripe, astringent, and green. Weedy and thin, with a crap ton of acid. Just because you can, doesn't mean you should.

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  • 1988 Joseph Phelps Cabernet Sauvignon Backus Vineyard 90 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley, Oakville

    (5/19/2018)

    The nose is a touch funky, but it does blow off with a little bit of swirling. There's intense green eucalyptus notes on both the nose and palate here. The palate is fully resolved; honestly, this has likely seen better days, and it probably nearing the end of its life. But there's good fruit still, and a nice touch of earthiness.

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  • 2010 Château Branaire-Ducru 90 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

    (5/19/2018)

    Slightly dusty, with plenty of black fruit on the nose and palate. It's obviously young, and the structure is there, but there's definitely enough fruit to help balance out that big structure. Really nice dustiness here as well, but obviously this is just too young. Seems to be classically-styled, as far as I can tell, but what do I know?

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  • 2016 The Eyrie Vineyards Pinot Gris Dundee Hills 88 Points

    USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley, Dundee Hills

    (5/19/2018)

    Love the nose on this. It's slightly spicy, with some sweet white fruit. Likely just a function of being a little bit too young too. Really juicy and fresh right now, with a nice bit of minerality as well. Good leanness and verve, with a touch of sweetness that balances things out. If anything, it's just a hint bitter on the back end. What an amazing value wine.

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  • NV Georges Laval Champagne Premier Cru Rose Brut Nature Cumières 85 Points

    France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru

    (5/19/2018)

    Disgorged February 1, 2017. L0314. Ridiculously dark in colour for a rose -- almost like a fruit drink colour. Tons of strawberry. So juicy and fresh, but a little bit thin and sour on the palate. Really lean and lots of minerality and acidity. Despite the colour, this doesn't seem to have the right amount of fruit on the palate for the acidity. Hyperactive mousse too. Good, but needs some roundness.

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  • 2002 Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Pruliers 90 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru

    (5/19/2018)

    Just a moderate amount of stink on the nose here, but the fruit is quite beautiful underneath the dirt. The palate is much better than the nose, with some good earthy tones. The fruit's sweet and ripe, a touch black, and quite prominent. The structure needs time to develop; I think given the generous fruit here, that won't be a problem.

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  • 1995 Louis Jadot Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Beaux Monts 93 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru

    (5/19/2018)

    Stunning nose. Spice, earth, and red fruit, and all good things Burgundy. The palate is lovely as well, showing right where I like my Burgundy -- balancing the spice, earth, and fruit again. Good acidic cut, this seems nicely resolved to me.

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  • 2006 Deutz Champagne Rosé Brut Millésimé Amour de Deutz 95 Points

    France, Champagne

    (5/19/2018)

    Amazing nose. So dense and powerful on the nose. No signs that this is a rose, this features breadiness and some intense toastiness. Really yeasty and intense with brilliant cut. The palate is slightly sweet, but it is really well balanced and shows exactly what I like in a tete de cuvee. Just brilliant stuff.

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  • 2002 Henri Boillot Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières 85 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru

    (5/19/2018)

    This isn't showing well at all, especially after the brilliant last bottle. Long in the tooth and tired. Not oxidized, but uninspiring and old. A little heavy and alcoholic, and a metric ton of oak.

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  • 2014 Louis Jadot Santenay 1er Cru Gravières Blanc 90 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Santenay 1er Cru

    (5/19/2018)

    Direct from France. Floral and mineral, with beautiful white and yellow fruit. A very light kiss of oak here, with some green apple flavours. A minute touch of reduction and some nice minerality. Simple, but delicious. Apparently the production of this is so low that importing it is impractical, which is why you don't see it much on this side of the pond.

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  • 2004 Opus One 93 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    (5/19/2018)

    Extremely rich and dense wine, but just absolutely great Napa cabernet. I laugh about this wine all the time, but I'm also more than willing to admit when I get a great bottle of this -- and this is it. In the words of a MS describing a different vintage, "this is an imposing beverage," and he would be right. Plum, rich, and dense, with loads of fruit. Structured and tannic -- just absolutely brilliant.

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  • 1997 The Napa Valley Reserve 90 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    (5/19/2018)

    Really intense nose with some plums that are starting to bruise just a little. Super dusty on the nose as well. The palate is intense and ripe, with a lovely bit of brown spice. Tannic, heavy, and dense, with a bit of sweet fruit. Dusty and big, but quite alluring too. Serious stuff, but it's the slight bit of stewiness and dare I say overripeness that kills it for me.

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  • 1995 Pahlmeyer Proprietary Red 90 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    (5/19/2018)

    You know what, I'll give it to 'em. This is what it should be. Ripe and dense red and black fruit, some dusty tannins and a bit of barnyard and graphite. There's a bit of plummy fruit, but it just works with the structure here.

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