Volcanic Wines

Must and Lees, N1
Tasted Thursday, May 4, 2023 by oenanthe with 109 views

Introduction

An evening themed around wines grown on volcanic soils. This was an opportunity to try wines that I would never have otherwise encountered. Very interesting, although does the volcanic character really shine out (other than for a couple of wines that had a nose that came from a gaseous volcanic fissure)?

Flight 1 (3 Notes)

  • 2021 Envinate Taganan 85 Points

    Spain, Canary Islands, Tenerife, Tacoronte-Acentejo

    A most peculiar sulphuric nose the like of which I have never encountered and immediately off-putting. With time it does mostly disappear but by then the damage is perhaps done. It is better on the palate, with olives and lime, more like a red in some facets. It grows on you, good sharpness and acidity, quite pleasant actually. But you are stuck with the nose....

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  • 2018 Adega do Vulcao Arinto dos Açores Ameixâmbar 87 Points

    Portugal, Açores, Vinho Regional Açores

    Unlike the Envinate that preceded it, nothing in the nose and I am immediately thankful for the mutedness. On the palate shades of a chardonnay orange pith that is quite appealing. This is nothing special but is easy-going wine.

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  • 2021 Suertes del Marqués Valle de la Orotava Trenzado 90 Points

    Spain, Canary Islands, Tenerife, Valle de la Orotava

    Strongly reductive. A number of us commented that this was very PCYM in nature, and it turns out that the maker is a fan. Garrigues on the palate, herbal with lavender and thyme. Spiy and smoky, with lovely citrus elements. Overall a compelling package.

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Flight 2 (3 Notes)

Flight 3 (2 Notes)

  • 2020 Vil-lusionistes Priorat Equànim Blanc Brisant 85 Points

    Spain, Catalunya, Priorat

    Amber, like whisky. A curious nose, washing up liquid? This is not a good thing. Hmm. Is this on the lower end of the corked scale? A few sips were enough, a bottle of this would be impossible. Not for me, 14.5% a bit of a struggle I'm afraid. Novelty value only.

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  • 2018 Cantine del Notaio Aglianico del Vulture Il Rogito 88 Points

    Italy, Basilicata, Aglianico del Vulture

    Fruity and forward, a deep pink, perhaps even light red. A million miles from my benchmark of Provencal Rosé and nowhere near as dry, but this was a fun wine with tons of personality. Could be sensational with summer food on a warm day. Time and place.

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Flight 4 (2 Notes)

  • 2011 Hatzidakis Winery Mavrotragano 90 Points

    Greece, Aegean, Cyclades, Santorini

    It has that sweetness of age, perhaps over and above 12 years, more like 20 to my palate. Olive, brine, herbs, very smooth and clearly in a good spot. One of several Hatzidakis on the night and all were quite impressive.

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  • 2020 Envinate Taganan Tinto 88 Points

    Spain, Canary Islands

    Like the white very eggy on opening, clearly a house style. Sweet fruit and bizarrely resolved tannins, feels significantly more developed than the bottle age would suggest. Bright red, like pinot noir and indeed this does have a burgundian character to it with red fruit such as sweet cherry. A likeable wine despite the crazy nose.

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Flight 5 (3 Notes)

  • 2011 Tenuta di Fessina Etna Musmeci Riserva 93 Points

    Italy, Sicily, Etna DOC

    Medium red. A sharp acidity, quite delicious and very refreshing, it has olive tones and lovely ripe red fruit that is again quite burgundian in nature. I like this a lot.

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  • 2018 Giovanni Rosso Etna 93 Points

    Italy, Sicily, Etna DOC

    A glowing ruby red. So bright! Completely different to the 2011 that preceded it, brilliant freshness and vibrancy. Wonderful. I have a case of the 2019 apparently which on this showing is very good news indeed.

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  • 2016 Trisaetum Pinot Noir Wichmann Dundee Estate 90 Points

    USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley

    Sweet and delicious, candied cherry and strawberry. Had the cheerful character of an ABC Santa Barbara PN, that is to say immediately appealing, highly moreish and a certain "where can I get some?" vibe. Excellent.

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Flight 6 (2 Notes)

  • 2013 Feudi di San Gregorio Irpinia Serpico 93 Points

    Italy, Campania, Irpinia

    Deep red. Sweet and developed, liquorice and cherry, but also old and meaty. Rich red fruit, glorious and delicious. Lots to like in other words. Notes began to run out of steam by this part of the evening but I really rated this at the time.

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  • 2010 Perillo Taurasi 89 Points

    Italy, Campania, Taurasi DOCG

    Fruit, leather and game. Blackcurrant and cassis. This is a big wine, high quality for sure but equally quite hard going in its 'youth'. Great potential.

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Flight 7 (3 Notes)

Closing

A fun evening, Hatzidakis a producer to look out for perhaps my key takeaway. As ever great company, excellent location at M&L with good food, glasses and atmosphere.

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