Metropolitan Pavilion, New York
Tasted Saturday, February 28, 2015 by drwine2001 with 855 views
Despite my best efforts, I missed some great wines (e.g., Faiveley Clos de Bèze, Bouchard Chevalier-Montrachet--drat) and passed on others due to palatal and physical fatigue as well as running low on descriptors that could characterize the wines in a meaningful way. This was a great event with producers exhibiting exceptional generosity with their rarities, sommeliers displaying good humor and patience in the face of the Burgundy-crazed masses, and New York restaurateurs putting out a marvelous array of small and not so small snacks to fuel the festivities.
Reflecting on both this event and the Verticals session, there were producers that outperformed and those that failed to deliver. Wines that exceeded my expectations included Paul Pillot's Chassagnes and Anne Parent's Pommards. Pierre-Yves Colin is hardly unknown these days, but he makes such fine wines at all levels that he deserves mention. Similarly, Olivier Bernstein has taken critics by storm, but I had never tried the high end examples, and they were remarkable. On the flip side were the big names with small results. I would include Méo-Camuzet, Lafon (for some of the Meursaults, anyway), Lafarge (nice of you to bring awful 2011 Volnays instead of '12s), and Clos de Tart.
As for what I learned about the 2012 vintage, I would summarize by saying that these wines are relatively easygoing and hard not to like. 2012 is definitely better than 2011 for the reds, but to my taste, there is not much of a quality gap between the whites from these 2 vintages; both seem very good with relatively few high peaks. Whites from both vintages can be a little soft, and I imagine that both vintages' white wines should be drunk over the near to intermediate term. The reds are no match for 2010; there are far fewer exciting, profound wines with the sort of structural tension and balance that the best '10s possess. Reading through my notes, I see that only rarely did I mention high acidity or particularly rough tannins. These are charming, fluid, red fruit leaning wines that are generally well balanced and should also have a broad, midterm drinking curve. I think they have a lot in common with 2002s, although the acidity levels seem a tad lower, and we'd be lucky if 2012s turn out as well as many red wines from that vintage.
2007 Delamotte Champagne Blanc de Blancs Millésimé
France, Champagne
Light, tart, lemony, and mineral. Refreshingly frothy.
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2010 Jean Noel Gagnard Chassagne-Montrachet Les Chaumes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet
From Coravin. Opened 6 weeks ago. Slightly turbid. Lush bright citrus, lively acidity. Moderate wood, excellent feel, good minerality.
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2009 Ballot-Millot & Fils Meursault 1er Cru Charmes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Magnum. Yellow. Ripe pineapple, wood, and butterscotch on the nose. Lush, probably some residual sugar, but good acidity. Rubensian wine (i.e., too much to be contained by the glass).
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2009 Ballot-Millot & Fils Meursault 1er Cru Les Genevrières
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Magnum. More floral, less ripe and buttery than the Charmes. Gentle wood, citrus rather than tropical fruit, good minerality. Quite a bit finer.
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2009 Ballot-Millot & Fils Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Magnum. Now we move into typical Meursault nuttiness. Creamy and leesy, less fruit driven than the other 2 crus, excellent acidity and length. I really enjoyed this.
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2012 Ballot-Millot & Fils Meursault 1er Cru Charmes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Lighter style, lovely crisp citrus, clean and not encumbered by wood. So much better than the overblown 2009.
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2012 Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils Chablis
France, Burgundy, Chablis
Wispy wine. Light, saline, a touch of wood. As it should be.
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2012 Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils Chablis 1er Cru Vaillon
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
Light, shimmering, floral and citric. Elegant, nice soil at end. Excellent.
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2012 Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils Chablis Grand Cru Valmur
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
Peach and citrus, not a lot of saltiness. Lush attack, more oak than any of the others, interesting spiciness and a dry finish. Far more exotic and overoaked than anything else in the range.
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2012 Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
Classic nose of zesty orange and oyster shell. Outstanding weightless impact; this is so much livelier than the Valmur and has little to no wood imprint. By far the finest of the 4 wines shown and will be good for a decade.
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2012 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
Light weight, lactic aromas, overly woody, subdued fruit. What happened here? Very strange profile.
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2012 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Bougros
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
Woody, ripe pear nose. Fat, very round, some Chablis character at the end. This really let the ripeness and wood get out of hand. Not good at all.
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2012 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
After the rather bizarre first 2 wines, finally one that is not all oak. Floral and airier feeling. Excellent acidity, crisp tart lemon, some green herbs. So Fevre actually does make Chablis after all! You couldn't have convinced me by the first 2 bottles. Best of the Fevres today and could be outstanding.
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2012 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
Very pretty nose is encouraging. Denser than the Preuses, moderate wood, not as much cut as that wine. Also disappointing.
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2012 Paul Pillot Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Grandes Ruchottes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
High toned lemon scents. Excellent combination of light wood, good flesh, and focusing acidity. Stony finish. I do not know this producer but found this to be exemplary Chassagne.
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2012 Paul Pillot Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru La Romanée
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
Gorgeous floral fragrance. Leaner, even more elegant and precise than the Grandes Ruchottes. Great vein of soil as well. Absolutely outstanding. Bravo, Paul Pillot, who was for me one of the sleepers of the day.
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2012 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Les Champlots Blanc
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Saint-Aubin 1er Cru
Gushing bright citrus balanced by incredible creaminess on the palate. Some wood, strong acidity. Above class St. Aubin.
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2012 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Meursault 1er Cru Charmes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Beautiful nut skin and pear aromas. Probably the leanest, most elegant Meursault I tasted this weekend, in fact, more in the style of Puligny except for the nose. Just gorgeous. I'd kill for this.
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2012 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Caillerets
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
Unexpectedly toasty nose. In the mouth, well focused orange, discrete oak, and a strongly mineral finish. Excellent, but the aromatics seemed out of place, and for that reason, I preferred the Meursault today.
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2012 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Corton-Charlemagne
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
Light yellow. Ineffable lactic, freshly churned butter scents-this just pulls you in by the nostrils! Glorious mouth feel, creamy, full of soil, and vibrant acidity. This could be Chevalier-Montrachet. Pierre-Yves Colin makes some of the most textural wines around, but he has outdone himself with this beauty. Right up there as one of my white wine highlights of La Paulée.
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2012 Domaine Roulot Meursault Les Luchets
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault
Medium weight for Meursault. Good mix of citrus and lactic creaminess. Of all the Luchets tasted over the past few days, I'd place this somewhere in the middle. I slightly preferred the 2011.
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2012 Domaine Roulot Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Like the Luchets, medium weight but more piercing citrus. Excellent acid and minerality, but I'm not sure it's clearly superior to the lieu dit wine.
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2012 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet
Fine, light, and flinty. Excellent village wine.
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2012 Domaine Leflaive Meursault 1er Cru Sous le Dos d'Âne
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Despite its Premier Cru status, I found this lighter, more diffuse, and carrying less impact than the AC Puligny.
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2012 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clavoillon
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
Delicate, floral nose. Fine, light, filigree. Not at all dense or weighty. A wine of great finesse. Probably a step behind the incredible 2010.
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2012 Domaine Leflaive Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
Light color, ethereal, silky feel. When I first tasted it, I thought it did not outstrip the Clavoillon, but when I returned to it, it's breed and delicate beauty with wafting tones of pure lemon were more apparent to me. It is easy to overlook such a shy, understated beauty like this when you are running around in the midst of tasting a hundred other wines. I am grateful that I had the chance to revisit and truly appreciate it.
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2012 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault
Much too much oak for its weight and degree of concentration. That's all I could taste.
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2012 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault Clos de la Barre
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault
Elegant, medium weight, lactic white that is more restrained in terms of wood. Very good, not exciting.
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2012 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault 1er Cru Charmes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Slightly deeper and much more spicy than Clos de la Barre but not that great a qualitative gap. Not an inspiring Charmes.
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2012 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Volnay 1er Cru Santenots-Du-Milieu
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
Ruby. Excellent, fully ripe black cherry. Medium weight and density. Beautiful purity of fruit and quite supple and fluid. A much gentler style than older bottlings of this which took/take forever to come around.
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2012 Domaine Jacques Prieur Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Combettes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
Typically flinty aromatics. Fairly ripe and bigger boned than the Leflaive Clavoillon. Still very fine. I particularly like the subtle wood framing.
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2012 Domaine Jacques Prieur Montrachet
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Montrachet Grand Cru
Regal, middle weight but super creamy texture, ripe citrus, exquisite poise and length. Not the most powerful wine ever but just achingly classy and beautiful. Not to mention that it is a rare treat to taste a Montrachet. Worthy of this appellation.
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2012 Domaine Jacques Prieur Beaune 1er Cru Grèves
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru
Ripe red cherry leavened by a bit of earth. Lower acidity. Plodding and foursquare.
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2012 Domaine Jacques Prieur Clos Vougeot
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
Minty nose. Medium weight. Some black fruit and earth, essentially lean, slightly severe style. This may well be the terroir speaking, but there were many better examples of Clos Vougeot today, at least in terms of immediate appreciation of balance and depth. I'd be more understanding if this emanated from a less ripe vintage.
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2012 Domaine Parent Pommard 1er Cru Les Chaponnières
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Pommard 1er Cru
Light color and weight. Classic dusting of soil predominates slightly over macerated red fruit. Very good.
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2012 Domaine Parent Pommard 1er Cru Les Épenots
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Pommard 1er Cru
Light red. Slightly riper than the Chaponnières with cherry liqueur notes. More fragrant and fine. Bright sustaining acidity. Lovely. I have found the wines produced by Anne Parent to be a revelation this week, quite something for this Pommard non-believer.
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2012 Domaine Parent Corton-Renardes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru
High pitched red fruit. Denser than the 2 Pommards. Some smoky elements not present in those wines. Sneakily powerful.
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2012 Domaine Parent Corton Blanc
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru
Medium weight. Creamy and lactic. Great acidity, moderate wood. Can see the connection to Corton Charlemagne. Very good at minimum.
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2012 Maison de Montille Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
Citrus, sea shell, and oak in a proper but unexciting mix. Middle of the road Chablis.
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2012 Château de Puligny-Montrachet Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly Blanc
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Saint-Aubin 1er Cru
Rich, woody, round, pineapple fruit. Macon like without enough tautness or focus.
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2012 Domaine de Montille Beaune 1er Cru Grèves
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru
Curiously stinky. This does not interfere with (but certainly does not add to) a medium weight, meaty, black fruited, tannic wine. Eh.
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2012 Domaine de Montille Corton-Clos du Roi
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru
Lighter in color and heft than the Beaune. Not showing a lot of anything today. The de Montille wines struck out in this tasting.
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2011 Domaine Michel Lafarge Volnay 1er Cru Les Mitans
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
Light, stalky, thin, and underripe. In a word, awful.
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2011 Domaine Michel Lafarge Volnay 1er Cru Clos du Château des Ducs
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
Thankfully, this is more like it than the Mitans. Riper, sappy red fruit sinuously woven together with wet earth and good acidity. By no means great but a big step up.
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2011 Domaine Michel Lafarge Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
Finest, most complex aromatics of these wines. Ripe fruit, black licorice core and some sap, but concludes with screechy acidity and underripe green. Disjointed now, will probably be disjointed later.
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2012 Joseph Drouhin / Drouhin-Vaudon Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
Ripe citrus, driving back end acidity, lots of density. Excellent.
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2012 Joseph Drouhin Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Lovely, harmonious wine. Lemony, discrete oak, well integrated acidity, long, stony finish. Bravo!
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2012 Joseph Drouhin Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Baudes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
Light red. Cherry fruit, stealthy ripeness. Elegant package: lovely fine earth, excellent acidity. I love this kind of Chambolle.
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2012 Joseph Drouhin Chambertin-Clos de Bèze
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru
Attractive subtle mix of muted red berry fruit, soil, and lively acidity. Light but terrific persistence. True expression of Gevrey Grand Cru.
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2012 Domaine Méo-Camuzet Corton-Perrières
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru
Ripe cherry, great acidity and minerality. Mid weight, finishes lean and austere.
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2012 Domaine Méo-Camuzet Clos Vougeot
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
Medium ruby. Ripe cherry offset by soil. Big wine but not brutally structured. Excellent through the attack and mid-palate, but not great length.
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2012 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Vosne-Romanée
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée
Black and red fruit. Lovely, supple, and balanced. A dream village Vosne.
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2012 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Chaignots
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru
Slightly more weight and much more earth than the Vosne. Candied fruit upfront backed by penetrating acids. Superb balance and potential.
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2012 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Ruchottes-Chambertin
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru
Lighter than the Nuits. All mulled red fruit and glorious, strong soil. Once again, fantastic acidity. Essence of Gevrey Grand Cru-light but authoritative.
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2012 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Clos Vougeot
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
Riper red fruit than the Ruchottes, but still a great sense of terroir and balancing acidity. This is just a great wine year in and year out. I wish I could buy some.
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2012 Domaine Jean Grivot Vosne-Romanée
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée
Light, elegant, and pliant with a thin veneer of soil. I liked this village wine too.
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2012 Domaine Jean Grivot Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Roncières
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru
Weightier than the Vosne village. Candied cherries upfront, long, earthy back end. Excellent, elegant, very Nuits.
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2012 Domaine Jean Grivot Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Beaux Monts
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
Leaner, backward black fruit and licorice. Not as friendly or easy to decipher as the village wine, nor should it be.
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2012 Domaine Jean Grivot Clos Vougeot
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
Subtle, understated black fruit and lots of soil. Gentle style rather than a bulky, hard Clos Vougeot, but it seems to lack depth and reserves.
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2012 Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair Vosne-Romanée Clos du Château
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée
Piercing, smoky nose. Light to medium body, earthy, and significant tannic grip. Enough material underneath?
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2012 Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Clos des Grandes Vignes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru
Sinuous aromas. Liqueur-like sweetness, medium weight but but tart and tannic with gritty texture. Funny wine-very disjointed at present and far better on the nose than the palate.
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2012 Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Reignots
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
Bright ripe cherry scents. Rich, sap filled entry, drier finish with soft soil tones.
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2012 Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair Echezeaux
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru
Fabulous, naturally ripe, sweet black and red fruit, anise, and real Vosne spice. Superb earthy background and a finish that goes on and on. Best wine in the stable, outstanding, truly Grand Cru quality Echezeaux.
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2012 Domaine d'Eugénie Vosne-Romanée Le Clos d'Eugenie
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée
Good basic Vosne, but its lush feel and overtly woody base are in striking contrast to the unadorned Mugneret wine.
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2012 Domaine d'Eugénie Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Brûlées
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
Rounder and sweeter than the village Vosne, less apparent oak, stronger acidity. Really excellent with a piquant mid-palate and serious grip at the end.
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2012 Domaine d'Eugénie Echezeaux
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru
Light weight than the Brulées. Elegant, spicy red and black fruit. Good but not as memorable as the wine from Liger-Belair.
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2012 Domaine d'Eugénie Clos Vougeot
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
Biggest of these wines, again showing a hefty dose of oak. Ripe black cherry fruit, some soil, roundly tannic. To me the most impressive wine they poured, but your tolerance for wood must be pretty high if you are going to enjoy these.
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2012 Alain Hudelot-Noëllat Chambolle-Musigny
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny
Light and limpid, tart red fruit. Good and just as village Chambolle is meant to be.
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2012 Alain Hudelot-Noëllat Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Suchots
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
Slightly bigger than the Chambolle but still lighter weight. Penetrating pure red fruit. Enough flesh, significant acid/ tannic grip. Will improve but I doubt that it will ever be a particularly rich wine. Fine though.
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2012 Alain Hudelot-Noëllat Clos Vougeot
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
In same restrained style as the other wines. Medium body, lighter than the Vosne Suchots but with similar tart red fruit and slightly grainy tannins. Again, refined but needs a little more oomph.
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2012 Alain Hudelot-Noëllat Romanée St. Vivant
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Romanée St. Vivant Grand Cru
Light color and weight. Delicate, pure strawberry and licorice. Sinuous and completely seductive. Long, lingering aftertaste. Shockingly delicious and complex now, but has the acidity for balance and intermediate aging. The epitome of grace, and perhaps more so than any other wine I tasted today, it exemplified the notion of great flavor without any weight. That said, do not expect it to be a 30 year wine.
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2012 Hubert Lignier Chambolle-Musigny Vieilles Vignes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny
Bright red. Sweet and ripe, fairly lush feel, some earth, good, proper dry finish. Good.
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2012 Hubert Lignier Morey St. Denis
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Morey St. Denis
Slightly meaty black cherry and soil. Drier feel and more austerity than the Chambolle. Also good but backward and in need of 5 or more years.
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2012 Hubert Lignier Morey St. Denis 1er Cru Vieilles Vignes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Morey St. Denis 1er Cru
Spicier, lighter, and more elegant than the village wine. More black than red fruit and much deeper earthiness than the former wine. Typical and very good.
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2012 Hubert Lignier Charmes-Chambertin
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru
Light color. Fragrant nose, ripe red fruit entry, good acidity, but then falls off in mid-palate, finishing with little impact or intensity.
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2012 Domaine Lignier-Michelot Morey St. Denis 1er Cru Les Faconnières
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Morey St. Denis 1er Cru
Lovely, deep cherry. Medium weight, fairly chewy. Sprightly acidity that refreshes during the finish.
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2012 Domaine Lignier-Michelot Clos de la Roche
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
Even deeper black cherry here. Vinous, almost liqueur-like without being heavy. Utterly seductive, sweet, and long. It reminded me of Ponsot Clos de la Roche. I almost passed this table by but am so glad that I stopped!
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2011 Domaine du Clos de Tart Clos de Tart
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de Tart Grand Cru
Light color. Stemmy and green. High acidity, light body, little fruit. Completely unappealing. They should be ashamed to pour this.
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2012 Domaine du Clos de Tart Clos de Tart
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de Tart Grand Cru
Deeper than the 2011. Ripe red fruit and licorice. Much better than the '11, and compared to the older vintages we tried this weekend, more elegant and less oaky. This is excellent but not profound. I'm left scratching my head about why this property commands such adulation (not to mention lofty prices).
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2012 Domaine Fourrier Morey St. Denis Clos Solon Vieille Vigne
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Morey St. Denis
Let's get right to the point-yum! Great red fruit, wonderful feel, dry tannic finish.
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2012 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin Vieille Vigne
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin
Lighter color and weight than the Morey. More green, herbaceous tones. Earthy, good acidity. Not as pure and exuberant as I usually find this cuvée and the only mild disappointment in this line up.
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2012 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Cherbaudes Vieille Vigne
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Lighter color but sweeter, purer, and smokier than the village. More harmonious feel, excellent acid/tannin structure, slightly austere finish. I liked this quite a bit.
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2012 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques Vieille Vigne
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Ripe, sweet cherries and strawberries with a tangy finish. So long and sappy in the mouth, a touch of soil, perfectly ripe tannins. Complete, beautifully balanced. In a word, fantastic.
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2012 Olivier Bernstein Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Cazetiers
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Medium ruby. Sappy, dry red fruit. Chewy but some airiness as well. Tannic with astringent coffee tones from wood that dominates the finish. For the future with ultimate quality to be determined by how the oak is integrated. Excellent potential at high end.
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2012 Olivier Bernstein Clos de la Roche
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
Floral and already very perfumed. Medium weight. Strong soil component, high acidity, mineral finish. Not one of his more unctuous wines-very focused and more classic. Very good but not extraordinary.
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2012 Olivier Bernstein Mazis-Chambertin
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru
Rich, ripe entry. Red/black fruit, substantial framing acidity more than tannin. A lighter weight Gevrey Grand Cru that needs a good amount of time.
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2012 Olivier Bernstein Chambertin-Clos de Bèze
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru
Oh my god, what a fabulous wine! Perfect combination of mulled red fruits, sappy yet light texture, excellent acidity, and a mountain's worth of earth on the endless finish. This has several extra levels of depth and complexity compared to the Mazis. One of the most compelling wines of the entire event. Hats off to Olivier Bernstein for this.
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