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18th Annual Lyon 10 Year Retrospective
Lyon Down Inn
Tasted November 2, 2014 by Grinner with 731 views
Introduction
We're getting older but the wines are STILL just ten years old for this recurring gathering. As for themes: the WA had a passing fancy for Australian Shiraz and we'd never cellared them for very long before these wines. How would they hold up? Throw in some Rhones and other ringers and we've got an event! All wines were double decanted at least 4 hours before the first flight. After bagging, an organized shell game kept 2 Aussies, 2 Rhones, and 1 "other" in each flight of 5. The wines were revealed after each flight making guessing easier as the BAL's went up!
Flight 1 - The Openers (2 notes)
Similarly priced sparklers from the lands of "Others". A "tart" (more like a pizza) with crème fraiche, basil, bacon, and caramelized onion went well.
White - Sparkling
2004 Bruno Giacosa Spumante Extra Brut
91 points
Bought on name recognition alone, and the reps at the NYC Wine Experience said only 150 cases came into the U.S. How we got any in Eugene... This is a nice, very dry sparkler with grapefruit, lime, chalk notes buoyed by significant acidity and tinier bubbles than the next sparkler.
White - Sparkling
2004 Roederer Estate L'Ermitage Brut
91 points
Fruitier than the Giacosa before it, more apple, pear, and toast notes. Fun comparo, a warm up for the task ahead...
Flight 2 - Red Flight One (5 notes)
Red
2004 Kilikanoon Grenache Prodigal
91 points
First wine of the tasting is always hard...blackberry, raspberry, earth, and a touch of leather. Nice depth, texture, and a little acid on the finish kept it lively. 91 on day 2.
Red
2004 Domaine Charvin Châteauneuf-du-Pape
92 points
More red than black fruit, some leather, spice, iodine, and violet. Nice depth and complexity. 92 on day 2.
Red
2004 Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Crau
93 points
Just a notch deeper than the '04 Charvin before it. Spice and pepper notes made it stand out. Some blackberry and kirsch, but a lot of savory, earth notes. Better in the evening after the formal blind tasting, with only a slight drop to 92 on day 2.
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Red
2004 Paloma Syrah
92 points
The texture of this wine made it stand out in this flight: black velvet! No Elvis. Dark fruit, earth and pepper. This has resolved smooth tannins and very nice depth. 91 on day 2.
Red
2004 Berrys Bridge Shiraz
90 points
Not quite as rich and persistent as the Paloma before it. I gave it 93 pts six years ago when it was more primary. Now it's just a handful of jammy ripe black fruit with obvious tannins and acid on the finish. 89 on day 2.
Flight 3 - Red Flight Two (5 notes)
Red
2004 Domaine de la Janasse Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Chaupin
93 points
Red berries, cherry, leather, and wet underbrush (what I frequently get from ripe Grenache) highlighted this obvious old world wine in this tasting, easy to guess. 92 on day 2.
Red
2004 Heathcote II Shiraz HD Reserve
92 points
Smashmouth Aussie; big, ripe, grippy, with black fruit and coffee notes. A little hot, and a tiny fall off on day 2: 91 pts.
Red
2004 Bodegas Pintia Toro Pintia
88 points
Didn't fit in well with bigger wines in this tasting. Medium bodied and elegant with red fruit and leather notes competing with the OAK -- only a few people in this group got splinters... 86 on day 2.
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Red
2004 Domaine du Pégau Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Réservée
96 points
My WOTN in this blind tasting. The most open nose with kirsch, plum, forest floor, spice/anise, and fig on the palate. Nice muscular yet velvety mouth feel that goes on and on. Even smoother on day 2, 96 pts still.
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Red
2004 d'Arenberg Shiraz The Dead Arm
92 points
Another open nose in this flight, but now with ripe black fruit and oak. A little tighter on the palate with more obvious acidity, some spice and pepper notes. 90 on day 2.
Flight 4 - Red Flight Three (5 notes)
Red
2004 De Lisio Shiraz
93 points
This is a big, ripe wine with a very nice mouth feel. Blackberry jam, licorice, and spice w/o the heat of some other Aussies. I actually guessed Oz first then changed my mind (what was wrong my old one?). 92 on day 2.
Red
2004 Cayuse Syrah En Chamberlin Vineyard
flawed
Bad bottle: weird sour/acids, like one too many fermentations...
Red
2004 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape
94 points
Still fairly tight on the nose, this ruby red wine is much more complex on the palate. Red and black fruit, leather, kelp, herbs, and garrigue. Complex, long, with nice smooth but obvious tannins on the finish. 93 on a day 2.
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Red
2004 Elderton Shiraz Single Vineyard Command
94 points
Same score as the Beaucastel before it, but worlds apart...bigger, riper, blackberry, mocha, some anise, and vanilla/oak. Tannins are just layin' down by the pool, very relaxed. 93 on a day 2.
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Comments (1)
Red
2004 Greenock Creek Shiraz Apricot Block
95 points
In the top 5 out of 40 wines, this impresses with its nose, its velvety texture, and its long balanced finish - less heat than other Aussies tonight. Flavors of black- and boysenberry, spices, some oak, and a floral hit. 94 on day 2.
Flight 5 - Red Flight Four (5 notes)
Red
2004 Roger Sabon Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Prestige
91 points
A little lighter than most this evening, it had a Burgundian palate feel, with notes of kirsch, leather, garrigue, and anise. Tannins more obvious on day 2, 90pts.
Red
2004 Mitolo Shiraz Savitar
94 points
Tasted blind, this sticks to the running theme of the Aussies this night with big, ripe black fruit, some mocha, pepper, and oak on a nice long finish supported by obvious but smooth tannins. 94 on day 2.
Red
2004 Glaetzer Shiraz Amon-Ra Barossa Valley
95 points
Back to back big hitting Aussies in this '04 tasting. See the Mitolo Savitar note, add a little glycerin and even a little more length on the finish. A great wine! 94 on a day 2.
Red
2004 Domaine de la Vieille Julienne Châteauneuf-du-Pape
85 points
Back to a lighter colored Rhone wine, this was funky or worse depending on your sensitivity to Brett. Earthy red and black fruit with mushroom, and light prune flavors. More odd on day 2, 80pts.
Red
2004 Cayuse Syrah Bionic Frog
94 points
This started with an open nose of ripe dark fruit and black licorice candy. On the palate: some plum, blackberry, bacon, cocoa, and more licorice. Obvious guess was New World in this tasting, but what? Fell off notably on day 2, with a slight vegetal hit, 89 pts.
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Flight 6 - Red Flight Five (5 notes)
Red
2004 Clarendon Hills Syrah Piggott Range Vineyard
93 points
I see Joe gave it the same score in this blind tasting... it impressed with its open nose of berries, flowers, tar, and spice. Black and blue fruit on the palate with more acidity than tannins on the finish, giving it a fresh feel. 90 on day 2.
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Red
2004 Domaine des Relagnes Châteauneuf-du-Pape Les Petits Pieds d'Armand
94 points
Back to a really nice CDP! More black than red fruit, with some leather/meat, iodine, fig and tar notes. Nice obvious structure and great length. 93 on a day 2.
Red
2004 Canalicchio Brunello di Montalcino
89 points
My guess: Italian. The slightly under-ripe fruit and acidity gives it away as a ringer in this tasting. Some cherry, leather, and spice notes overlap with other wines in this tasting but it's distinctive...and it did not fall off on day 2, 89 pts.
Red
Red
2004 Domaine de Cristia Châteauneuf-du-Pape Renaissance
89 points
Weird. Five years ago this seemed to be turning the proper corner. Now this bottle seemed more primary and just had "medium" written all over it. Nose, flavors, depth, balance, finish, and tannins all somewhat unremarkable. Palate fatigue? nah, some great and subtle wines followed and woke us up. Weird again: better on day 2, 91 pts.
Flight 7 - Red Flight Six (5 notes)
Red
2004 Kilikanoon Shiraz Oracle
91 points
Consistent with the Oz theme in this '04 tasting, the Oracle is a big hot ripe wine with mostly black fruit, some mocha, and spice. Nice long finish with modest tannins. 89 on day 2.
Red
2004 M. Chapoutier Hermitage La Sizeranne
92 points
A little more Old World in this blind tasting. Spice and violet notes play off the black cherry, plum, and cassis flavors. Nice long finish. Tannins were winning the battle with the fruit on day 2, 89 pts.
Red
2004 Bosquet des Papes Châteauneuf-du-Pape A la Gloire de mon Grand-Père
92 points
More spice and iodine than the Rhone before it. Ripe berries, herbs/ spices, and a little meat/sangre de toro. Tannins haven't given up the fight yet. 90 on day 2.
Red
2004 Schild Estate Shiraz
93 points
Another ripe wine in this tasting, it has pronounced black licorice overtone with deep black fruit, espresso, tar, and oak. Long finish stood out, and its great QPR given its original price. 91 on day 2.
Red
2004 Darioush Shiraz
94 points
You hope for surprises in a big blind tasting and the Californians tried their best as ringers...this was excellent! Jammy like its namesakes from OZ, but a different sort of peppered meat and black fruit jam on the palate. Really nice depth, length, and grip. No fall off on day 2. One of several I kept going back to...no rest for the spit bucket!
Flight 8 - Red Flight Seven (5 notes)
Red
2004 Domaine Bois de Boursan Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée des Félix
92 points
Spices and herbs gave it away as CDP. One of the more elegant wines of the night, silky smooth and long with dusty berry notes, garrigue, smoke, and fig. 90 on day 2.
Red
2004 Clos des Papes Châteauneuf-du-Pape
93 points
Spicy and elegant, this leaned towards red fruits, leather, garrigue, and herbs. Nice long smooth finish. 90 on day 2.
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Red
2004 Cayuse Syrah Armada Vineyard
95 points
Hedonistic wine with an open nose of black fruit, spice, pepper, bacon fat, and tar. Similar on the palate with a thicker texture than most this evening. Fell way off overnight becoming shorter and slightly sour, 89 pts. I wouldn't keep this a lot longer...
Red
2004 Two Hands Shiraz Bella's Garden
94 points
This stood out for its depth and balance. Black more than red fruit, spice/pepper, and oak predominate on a very nice texture. 90 on day 2. Another one I wouldn't keep long.
Flight 9 - Red Flight Eight (5 notes)
Red
2004 Domaine Grand Veneur Châteauneuf-du-Pape
90 points
Bottom of the pack in this tasting but decent QPR in a nice old style CDP. There's a touch of funk, black cherry, kelp, and spice notes. Tannins hold up the finish and held it up overnight, 90 on day 2.
Red
2004 Two Hands Shiraz Lily's Garden
92 points
Another ripe wine from Oz. Typical Shiraz flavor profile. Notable glycerin and acidity made it both velvety and fresh. Medium length finish. 90pts on day 2.
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Red
2004 Stolpman Syrah Hilltops
94 points
Wine of the flight, this is a deep dark wine with great complexity and balance. Remarkable texture props up the black fruit and savory notes, including iron, meat, and smoke. 94 pts on day 2.
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Comments (2)
Red
2004 Mitolo Shiraz G.A.M.
92 points
Middle of the pack and a very nice wine with ripe black fruit, anise, pepper, and tar. Medium length, resolved tannins. Again, don't wait too long, 91 on day 2.
Red
2004 Le Vieux Donjon Châteauneuf-du-Pape
90 points
This seems to be on plateau; very resolved in this tasting. A lighter styled wine that is very smooth with some black cherry/kirsch, licorice, meat/leather, and kelp notes. 89 on day 2.
Flight 10 - Dessert (1 note)
White - Sweet/Dessert
2004 Fattoria di Fèlsina Berardenga Vin Santo del Chianti Classico
94 points
WOW! What a great dessert when paired with a triple crème French brie. Oxidized, brown sugar, dried fruit and orange peel, and some spices all supported by the nice acidity. This didn't last long!
Closing
Too many wines! Notes to self: keep megatastings to 30-35 wines, don't cellar Aussies beyond 5-7 years (they're good and they stay good, why wait?), same for Cayuse (like Leonetti cabs of the 90's), CdP's can really evolve and hold up nicely (still had some of them ungassed on day 3 that were lovely -- no notes or scores). Great group! Great time. Same bat channel next year w/ '05 Bordeaux!