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Wine Dinner Extravaganza

Smyth and The Loyalist - Chicago IL

Tasted April 21, 2017 - April 22, 2017 by Burgundy Al with 714 views

Flight 1 - 1996 Champagne (3 notes)

White - Sparkling
1996 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon France, Champagne
94 points
Powerful combination of apple aromas and flavors , with a wonderful cross-section of ripe and under-ripe fruit across the green/ yellow/ red spectrum with some richer baked apple notes on finish. Very wonderful now, but I won't hold my few remaining bottles past 2020, even if I understand while others liked older styled Champagne might.
3 people found this helpful Comment
White - Sparkling
1996 Krug Champagne Vintage Brut France, Champagne
94 points
Lots of ripe apple with lots of concentration and toasted brioche. Longer and fresher than I can recall vs the last few bottles over the last few years. A consistently perplexing wine.
1 person found this helpful Comment
White - Sparkling
1996 Salon Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut France, Champagne
flawed
I wondered if this was slightly corked, but somehow it was certainly imperfect - muted and less robust vs any previous bottle. Kevin found a bleu cheese note. Others thought it perhaps oxidized, but I found a persistent wet cardboard note, even if just faintly in the background.
1 person found this helpful Comment

Flight 2 - Dauvissat les Clos Vertical (3 notes)

White
1994 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
93 points
Open an hour before serving in Dauvissat Clos vertical. opulent start for Chablis with caramelized or baked apple notes, and some thought even tropical/ mango. Very intense and powerful palate with waxy textures in the middle, then equally intense minerality on finish, also still showing bright acidity. Drinking so well now, with the ability to age even longer. Note: this was a 2008 purchase of a European bottle, which tended to be bottled later than those imported to the US at release.
White
2004 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
flawed
Open an hour before serving in Dauvissat Clos vertical. Slightly corked. So frustrated because of this wine's great density and concentration, which hinted at its 94-95 point potential, based on previous bottles. Still tasty behind the faint corkiness, I'd think this still almost 90 points tonight.
1 person found this helpful Comment
White
2009 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
94 points
Open an hour before serving in Dauvissat Clos vertical. Lots of fresh apple, lemon peel and lemon custard aromas and flavors. a nice floral note to start as well. Fiercely mineral-driven middle-to-finish. Drinking very well now, with plenty of upside, and certainly cellarworthy for the next two decades.

Flight 3 - From the "Montrachets" (2 notes)

White
1953 Antonin Rodet Montrachet France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Montrachet Grand Cru
91 points
Open 20 minutes before serving. Poached pear with dried apricot and sweet spice. This kept unfolding in interesting ways with more time in glass, without ever coming close to falling apart. Overall, I think it was more interesting than amazing. It is unrealistic to complain about a white wine this age that is still drinking well, but it didn't quite have Grand Cru density to me.
White
2005 Domaine Leflaive Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
90 points
Open 15-20 minutes before serving. Ripe stone fruits with good concentration, but somewhat mature and just modest complexity.

Flight 4 - Meursault les Perrières (3 notes)

White
2002 Domaine Roulot Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
91 points
Open 15-20 minutes before serving in Meursault Perrières flight. Fully mature orchard fruit aromas with slightly sweet spice. Aromas seemed too old for its age, but palate much fresher. Very good power, density and length. No upside from here, only increased risk.
1 person found this helpful Comment
White
2009 Domaine Roulot Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
95 points
Open 75 minutes before serving in Meursault Perrières flight. Broad array of fruit aromas and flavors, showing apple, pear, lemon custard and peach aromas and flavors at various points. Great concentration and minerality throughout with perfect balance. While not quite as rich as the amazing Coche 2008 in the next glass, this might have been my 2nd favorite wine tonight.
1 person found this helpful Comment
White
2008 Coche-Dury Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
97 points
Open 75 minutes before serving in Meursault Perrières flight. Wow. Nicely floral with a cross-section of apple aromas and flavors ranging from green to yellow to red. Spice, then even more spice contribute to a great sense of richness. Superb concentration and minerally textures. Very long and perfectly harmonious. Great now with upside from here. Easily my Wine of the Night.
1 person found this helpful Comment

Flight 5 - DRC La Tâche 1972 on its Own (1 note)

Red
1972 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, La Tâche Grand Cru
93 points
Open 30 minutes before serving. Great color, very good fill (ullage 2-2.5 cm). Stunning aromatic start - fully mature red cherry, baking spice, cooked mushroom, earth - all combining for a great degree of "La Tâche-ity." Same character on palate, just less concentrated or alluring, while still good. 96 point nose, 89 point flavors. Much better vs another bottle (6 cm ullage) tasted with this same group at a dinner last year.
2 people found this helpful Comment

Flight 6 - Roumier Bonnes Mares Older Vertical (2 notes)

Red
1983 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Bonnes Mares France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru
95 points
Served alongside the 1985, both opened 2+ hours before serving. Red berry aromas and flavors with savory spice. 1983 comes through with plenty of mushroom, earth and forest floor, but none of the decay that marks the vintage too often. Very good concentration and length, but nearly perfect balance and harmony. Best (by far) this wine has performed in the three times I recall from the past 10 years. Note: both bottles were "Chateau & Estate" bottles, so were 100% Terre Rouges, since Roumier didn't make a single worldwide Bonnes Mares assemblage until 1989.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
1985 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Bonnes Mares France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru
93 points
Served alongside the 1983, both opened 2+ hours before serving. Cork was fully soaked through with reasonable mold underneath the capsule. Ripe red cherry and berry aromas and flavors, with some jamminess to start. More textural charm middle through finish. Didn't seem quite as harmonious as the 1983. Certainly very good, but not as good as prior bottles. Note: both bottles were "Chateau & Estate" bottles, so were 100% Terre Rouges, since Roumier didn't make a single worldwide Bonnes Mares assemblage until 1989.
1 person found this helpful Comment

Flight 7 - Mugnier Musigny Vertical (2 notes)

Red
2002 Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier Musigny France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Musigny Grand Cru
95 points
Served single blind alongside the 2007. Open 4 hours, decanted 30 minutes before serving. Red cherry and berry with great concentration and balance, but still lots of reserve. Subtle spice. Textural masterpiece. At first I thought this 2007, but then realized this was much more concentrated and the wonderful wine in the next glass fleshier.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
2007 Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier Musigny France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Musigny Grand Cru
94 points
Served single blind alongside the 2002. Open 4 hours, decanted 30 minutes before serving. Cross-section of bright red fruit with good spice notes. Meaty and powerful for the vintage with great balance. At first I thought this 2002, but then realized this was fleshier and the (even more) wonderful wine in the next glass more concentrated.
2 people found this helpful Comment

Flight 8 - Older Bordeaux (3 notes)

Red
1949 Château La Mission Haut-Brion France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
93 points
From 375 ml bottle that seemed in very good shape, open 15-20 minutes before serving. Mature and ripe black fruit that was surprisingly fresh for its age and format. Roasted meat, liqueur and dark chocolate with wonderful balance. A real beauty to start, but less pristine by the final sip.
Red
1959 Château Latour Grand Vin France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
94 points
Open hour+ before serving. Powerful black fruit, cassis, cigarbox. Still firmly structured, I found the tannins slightly drying on finish, detracting from the overall experience. I certainly liked this wine tonight, but others enjoyed it more.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
1962 Château Latour Grand Vin France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
94 points
Open an hour+ before serving. Good combination of mature black fruit and earth with cigarbox and leather notes. Softer black fruit vs the 1959 and not quite as long or concentrated, but much greater harmony and balance. I slightly preferred this over the 1959, but most others disagreed.

Flight 9 - Mid-Aged Margaux (2 notes)

Red
1983 Château Margaux France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux
94 points
Open 5 hours before serving alongside the 1990. Ripe and rich with black berries and currant, very good spice and liqueur hints. Very good concentration. Should hold for several decades if well stored.
4 people found this helpful Comment
Red
1990 Château Margaux France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux
95 points
Open 5+ hours before serving alongside the 1983. Black fruit, lots of freshness, power. Dark chocolate, cassis, sweet spice and roast meat. Another great bottle of this wine, even if slightly less dense than the very best bottles.
1 person found this helpful Comment

Flight 10 - Sine Qua Non (3 notes)

Red
1997 Sine Qua Non Impostor McCoy USA, California, Central Coast
93 points
Open 5 hours before serving in SQN flight. Nicely mature black fruit with great complementary spice, dark chocolate and liqueur notes. Aging gracefully and harmoniously.
Red
2000 Sine Qua Non Syrah In Flagrante USA, California, Central Coast
94 points
Open 5 hours before serving in SQN flight. Dark, powerful and very alluring. Lots of flavors and complexity kept unfolding during its time in glass. Seemed ever-so-slightly warmer on finish than Imposter McCoy 1997 in the next glass, or vs what I'd prefer.
Red
2002 Sine Qua Non Syrah Just For the Love of It USA, California, Central Coast
flawed
Slightly corked. So much great fruit concentration behind that. Last two bottles tasted (5 and 8 years ago) were also corked.

Flight 11 - A Few Sweet Wines to Finish (3 notes)

Red - Fortified
1970 Taylor (Fladgate) Porto Vintage Portugal, Douro, Porto
93 points
Late night, brief note. Rich and opulent with sweet fruit, dark chocolate. Fresher than I expected. Moderate length or finesse, but maybe because it was tonight's 25th bottle?

I took the bottle home, corked and refrigerated, so will revisit. Day 2 seemed even fresher (or perhaps I was fresher?), but still a little monolithic. Half bottle left, so there will be more to this tasting note.

Finished five weeks later (5/31/17), still tasty, similar to when initially opened and tasted, even if somewhat shorter and less dense.
Red - Fortified
1948 Massandra Red Port Ukraine, Crimea
95 points
What a fascinating and fun wine. Lighter color. Figs and milk chocolate, nicely spiced with good/restrained sweetness and great balance. A blend of Morastel (aka Graciano), Saperavi and Cabernet Sauvignon (unknown percentages). Unclear to me why this is called "Port." My favorite of tonight's sweet wines. Two other diners agreed, but 6 preferred the 1949 Château Doisy-Daëne.

I took the bottle home, corked and refrigerated, so will revisit. Day 2 this also came across as similar to the previous evening, perhaps slightly less sweet and tantalizingly complex.
White - Sweet/Dessert
1949 Château Doisy-Daëne France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Barsac
93 points
Late night, brief note. Apricot and candied orange peel with wonderful balance. 6 of 9 diners thought this the best of tonight's sweet wines, but I slightly preferred the Massandra 1948.

I took the bottle home, corked and refrigerated, so will revisit. Day 2 everything was very similar, just slightly simpler and shorter. Excellent balance.
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