From magnum. Brilliant combination of sweet and tart fruit, sweet and savory spice with unctuous textures and a long, zen finish. A powerhouse in its early stages of beauty.

In 2013 "Bâtard" horizontal. This was very reductive to start, and while it improved with decanting and time, never really strutted its stuff. An odd bottle. Reduction didn't bother others as much. Great raw material obvious.

In 2013 "Bâtard" horizontal. Apple and pear with some mint and anise. This has excellent concentration, starting off lush and opulent, but ending with a bright edge. Faint reduction was gone within minutes of pouring, and this wine kept getting better and better with more time and air.

In 2013 "Bâtard" horizontal. Incredible richness and harmonious, wonderfully spiced and floral with a kiss of sweetness. Great length. This easily started out as my favorite of the flight, but Pierre-Yves' wine might have caught up when finished.

Perfect expression of Vosne from a ripe vintage with lush red cherry, berry, liqueur, and perfumed spicebox and silky structure. Good weight and a long-ish lingering finish.

Brilliant aromas pull you in, complex and unfolding flavors of savory and near-sweet fruit keep you engaged. Long finish, so powerful, while lithe. From the same source as the bottle I tasted a few months ago, tonight's might have been even better.

Small pour, brief note. Bright and lively red fruit, good spice, nothing bitter, good density. A success for the vintage.

Small glass, brief note. Haunting beauty is so spiced with enchanting mature character that manages to seem pristine. Always a great wine, tonight might have been its best performance I can recall.

Small glass, brief note. Also very pleasant, this has a charming, classically Vosne character, but its density and size would never have me think it Grand Cru if served blind.

Robust and complex, this is still a bit firm and imperfectly harmonious, but so much great fruit, spice and structure here. Another 1996 that has further upside.

Problematic cork. Wine was fine and drinkable, but so lackluster vs its brilliance from barrel and in its youth.

Small glass, brief note. Fully+ mature but still interesting, just not nearly as complex as a bottle tasted 2 years ago. This even fell off in the 15 minutes from when my glass was poured until finished, but the bottle had been opened several hours earlier.

Small glass, brief note. Ripe and rich, but everything so well integrated already. Rockstar classic Vosne with clear Grand Cru density. Great now, but certainly better 2029 forward.

Small taste from 3L. Ultra bright and elegant with more red vs black fruit. Now a powerful vintage for this wine, but a charming wine that should drink well young, 2025 forward.

Small pour, brief note. Bottle had been open several hours. Fleshy and ripe red and black cherry with a very firm middle for now. Very long finish really shows the textural elegance this wine shows when ready. Better from 2028 forward.

Corked

Small glass, brief note. On the meaty side for Roumier Bonnes Mares, this is a powerful edition, but less elegant than typical. Lots of fruit with good spice notes. Very long finish. I doubt there is much further upside, but see little fear of it declining. The 1990 tasted next was even better.

Small glass, brief note. Slightly youthful, ripe and precocious, this is a powerhouse in development with so many layers you can sense emerging. A great wine that will just get even better.

Small glass, brief note. Just starting to show some evolution, this is at a charming place now. Red cherry and berry, balancing fresh and dried fruit character with subtle spice. Great textures are brilliantly Chambolle - lithe and weightless without compromising on concentration. Further upside from here.

Small pour, brief note. Fully mature mostly red fruit with subtle spice. More earth is emerging as this ages. Best to enjoy over the next few years.

Small pour, brief note. Just a baby with so much bright and jammy red cherry and berry. Wonderfully vibrant and well spiced with a long finish.

Small pour, brief note. Really brilliant, especially in context of the vintage. While fun, ripe, and precocious, this is also powerful, balanced and nearly elegant. Great now with upside.

Small pour, brief note. So much here, but not quite fully harmonious yet. Superbly bright, powerful and energetic, but the fruit is less forthcoming. Hold until 2026 or later, but certainly 94-95+ point potential.

Small glass, brief note. So similar to last night's magnum, possibly just slightly less unctuous. A baby.

Small glass, brief note. Bottle had been opened the previous evening, and revisited this afternoon, at which point it seemed very tired to me, which is surprising for a 2005.

Small pour, brief note. Magnum. A bright and stunning vintage for Salon. Tingling, lingering finish makes me so happy... then sad it is gone.

Small pour, brief note. Good balance, enjoyable indeed, maybe barely Grand Cru concentration.

Small pour, brief note. Once you engage, you just can't turn away. Not a powerhouse, but a stunning beauty.

Small pour, brief note. Meaty and earthy with classic Gevrey styling. Tannins are perfectly assimilated, everything works here, even if just barely at Grand Cru density. Very good now. I have mostly been a big fan of Ponsot 1988s.

Small glass, brief note. Wow, this is really starting to emerge into a great wine. Perfumed and silky with so much pleasure, yet so much more in reserve.

Popped-and-poured, served alongside the 2013. This was a beauty right out of the gate with the richness of the vintage complemented with so much sheer concentration, dry extract, and brightening energy. Upside from here.

Popped-and-poured, served alongside the 2012. This was noticeably reductive to start, so decanter aeration was required, which worked its miracles here. This evolved into a layered, spiced wine with the great juxtaposition of sweet and tart elements. Probably even better than the 2012 by the 2-hour mark.

Brilliant aromatic start is floral with fresh and poached pear. Apple and pear on palate but not nearly as seamless as the two vintages of Rougeots, so coming across as slightly disjointed for now. Tough to assess where this will go.

Small pour from 3L, brief note. Fourrier personified. This is all about perfect fruit - pure, dense, and incredibly intense, prototypically expressing Gevrey. A great wine. My first time ever tasting this as a finished wine (i.e., from bottle) in any vintage.

Small glass, brief note. Good weight, still nicely fresh and bright with good length, but slightly lacking complexity. Certainly enjoyable, but I have rarely been a big Laville fan.

Small pour, brief note. Bright red fruit, shockingly fresh, still showing bright textures. Christophe was one of Burgundy's top performers in this challenging vintage.

Small pour, brief note. Something seemed wrong with this bottle, which was so backward, angular and awkward, completely different vs when tasted from barrel or what I get from any 2016.

Small pour, brief note. Ripe, tasty, and slightly jammy, but I found it slightly lacking depth. Not sure what to make of this wine.

Small pour, brief note. Delicately floral with a combination or black and red berries on nose and palate. Everything easy and well balanced, a 2017 that nicely expresses the vintage. Will be good young.

Small pour, brief note. Lots here for sure, but it is already seeming slightly dirty.

So sad, this was slightly heat damaged or stewed in some way.

Alongside the 2008. Fundamentally opulent with black berries and plum in front of roasted meat. A real powerhouse that is maybe getting close to its peak. Much better when retasted an hour after opened vs right away.

Alongside the 2012, this was more "ready" with an engaging combination of fresh and maturing black cherry and berry aromas and flavors, supported with silky tannins and animale. Tghe 2012 might become a better wine from 2030 forward, but the 2008 was more pleasurable this afternoon.

Small pour, brief note. Opulent throughout, showing ripe apple and baked apple with an inherent richness, but with a very energetic through-line helping keep this wonderfully vibrant. Much too young, but a great wine in the making.

Small pour, brief note. How does this wine stay this fresh? Dense, denser, densest with impeccable balance.

Small pour, brief note. Alongside the Chambertin-Clos de Bèze. Spiced aromas with robust and dense black fruit with some rare meat. Similar flavors, not quite yet seamless, this has a slightly hollow middle, but finishes powerful again. Good now, probably 93 points, but this needs another decade in the cellar, and I am confident it will have 95-96+ point potential.

Small pour, brief note. Alongside the Chambertin. As usual, the Chambertin-Clos de Bèze is more alluring in its youth, with the big boy more reticent. Spice, meat and an array of black fruit seem in perfect harmony. Not the most powerful vintage for this wine, but the balance will still turn heads. Very good already, but better to hold at least a few more years, and then enjoy for a few more decades.