Restaurant Le Défi, Sprang-Capelle
Tasted Friday, August 20, 2010 by jkoenen with 928 views
Wonderful diner and ditto wines @ our favorite wine-and-dine restaurant.
Since these are informal tastings where emphasis is on savoring wines and food, rather than analyzing them, I suffice with brief imbressions and a score.
Wines tasted single blind.
A couple of very memorable whites
Impressive Riesling! Very fresh and floral on the nose, a hint of RS on the palate, but nothing cloying or overripe. The Germans would call this 'feinherb', I suppose. Elegant, mineral and very complex. Usually I'm not very fond of Alsatian Riesling. To me they are often flabby and too sweet. But this one is the best I ever had. 18/20
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Big, fat, ripe tropical and citrus-fruits over an enormous minerality. A Point. Truly 'Monumental'. 18.5/20
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Beautiful mature nose of butterscotch, nougat, caramel, peat and resin. Lots of oak, but very vivacious and mineral. Starting to fade after a while. What a surprise! Wonderful wine.From a pristine magnum. 18/20
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A decadent and fat wine, built to impress. Alas, aromatics are rather dusty and stale. Enormous ammount of oak, which is not integrated yet. Will it ever happen? 16/20
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Floral and expressive, but not obtrusive. Soft acidity, very ripe and mature, but there's still enough life in it. 17/20
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Brilliant wine. Again. Just like the bottle we had 2 months ago. Consistent notes, in a wonderful place now. 18.5/20
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Infanticide. Hard to evaluate at the moment. Lots of minerality and acidity going on. Almost made me think Riesling. But it doesn't have the lemony, zesty notes. The fruit is more tropical and oily. Crammed with potential. Would love to try this in 10 years. For now, 17/20
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Very consistent level of high end wines throughout this flight
My guess was "Old Bordeaux 75?". Suppose that's not a compliment. Colour was pretty deep and lively, but I had some issues with the bouquet, which was rather musty and old. Not very appealing, though no apparent faults. 16/20
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Was stunned by the youthfulness and vivacity in this wine. Chewy, supportive tannines, fresh red fruit (seems even quite primary in its flavor profile). Fantastic. 18.5/20
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Gorgeous, classical beauty. Smoky and savoury notes on top of a dense structure and deep complexity. Really, really beautiful and starting to drink very well. 18.5/20
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Clearly different from all the previous Bordeaux-blends this night. Could this be the first Napa-wine? Good fraicheur, a hint of sweetness in the ripe and thick blanket of fruit. Gorgeous, melting tannines, creamy mouthfeel. Wonderful wine. 18/20
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Utterly complex and noble bouquet of cinnamon, cloves, clack cherry and cassis, smoke and earth. Sexy and powerful, great balance and harmony in the well endowed finish. This beauty is deep, dense and complex, yet very drinkable and supple. A major achievement. God, this is good... 19/20
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Upon opening this boisterous wine is very tannic and slightly alcoholic. But after extended air time it turns out to be a very charming personality, quite drinkable even... Supple, sultry and slightly sweet. Could become a great wine when it developes adjuvant complexity in 3 to 5 years time. For now, 17.5/20
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Supple, soft and slightly sweet on its entry. But this dries towards the finish, which is beautifully layered and complex. But... still really young, fresh and tannic... Try again in 2 years. 18/20
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Opens up somewhat anonimous and modern, but unfolds in the glass into a classically structured, reticent and surly wine. Grilled bell pepper, tomato leaf, cranberries, canned cherries, good acidity. Could use a little more depth and complexity, but otherwise this is a beautiful wine. 18/20
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Strangely enough this is the wine with the more traditional feel (when compared to the preceding Togni 1999). Cedar, ripe cherry fruit, cigars, earthy and friendly. Good stuff! 18/20
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This was a very instructive eye-opener for me. Though ultra-international and modern in style, it was very obvious to me that it was NOT from Napa. No sweetness, mouthwatering acidity, very spicy, sweet tobacco, used leather. Very distinguished and classy. Slightly drying and chalky but ripe and showy tannines. A talented and extremely promising youngster! 18.5/20
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Alas, this was a slightly disappointing flight. Usually I clearly prefer Syrahs over Grenache-based wines. But tonight the two Northern Rhone wines performed under my expectations. And the Grenaches... Well, again no real emotions there.
Sweet entry, some alcohol in the back, licorice, spices, grilled vegetables, lascivious wine. Table agreed on this one: a sub-par bottle. 17/20
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Very complex and tasteful. Not the deepest Syrah I've had, but wonderfully svelte and distinguished. 17.5/20
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Alcohol in the nose, dried currants, iodine, slightly oxidative? Interesting, but doesn't ring my bell. 16.5/20
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Raisins, prunes. Sultry and easy to like, certainly no organic, outdoorsy or animal impressions. Rather clean, pleasant wine, a tad shy maybe. Imagine my astonishment after the revealing of the bottle... 17/20
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My first bottle of Climens, and it performed!
Hmmm, this was in a difficult position in our line up. Not fresh and vigorous enough to reassess our palates, after these impressive series of red wines. In fact, I thought this was very bitter and drying in the back. An austere wine, not very jolly. Okay, it's pretty sweet and concentrated for a spätlese, but it lacked freshness and sap. 15.5/20
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Charming, elegant, tender. Not overly sweet, leaves a dry and clean mouthfeel after the impressively long and balanced finish. Lovely refreshing acidity, vanilla, pears, mango and cream. What a beautiful wine! 18.5/20
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Older wine, not very complex. Slightly shallow, I might even say. Fruit is fading, interesting organic aromatics. A fair wine. 15/20
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Corked? Oxidized? Don't know, but it was no good.
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No formal notes, just drinking and enjoying.
A sure bet, this classic bottling from Penfolds. A steady performer, combining the best of both worlds: New-World-panache and Old-World-values. Starting to enter its prime drinking window. Wonderful wine.
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Beautifully textured Ribera. In a wonderful spot right now. So why wait?
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Larger than life, extreme concentration, slightly sweet. Loveable for its fruit purity and added typicity of eucalypt, coconut and mint. Needs a tad more depth and complexity, I would say. Maybe a few years in the cellar, will serve this cheeky brat right...
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Big and bold, in the modernistic, flamboyant style Ben Glaetzer is famous for. Certainly impressive and enjoyable, but I like my Aussies with a little more terroir and restraint.
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Yeah! This rocked. Extremely deep, dark and concentrated. Certainly lots of high-toned fruit, but underneath it's all grim and growling.. Freshly shot game, meat, blood, ash and tar. Loved it.
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Man, was I impressed by this wine. Laser-like focus mixed with very pure, deep and mouthfilling flavors. A gorgeous take on New-World Syrah. Spicy fruit mix, topnotch acidity, just the faintest hint of RS (or is that alcoholic sweetness?).
Have to buy this wine.
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Personal WOTN: 1995 Evangile
Other wines to look out for: SQN whites, Lillian Syrah, Boxler Riesling
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NV Pol Roger Champagne Rich Demi-Sec 89 Points
France, Champagne
Here's something that I don't drink to often... And I pretty liked it. Charming, off-dry. Sugar is balancing out the refreshing acidity. In fact, it feels very 'natural'. Like fresh strawberries. Or pears. 17/20
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1990 Bollinger Champagne R.D. Extra Brut 92 Points
France, Champagne
Very traditional in style, oxidative notes. Yeasty, roasted nuts, brioche. Colour seems a bit dark. Not a 'wow'-wine like last time, but really beautiful. 18/20
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