Italian Invasion Part II: Brunellos

Italian Wine Masters Seminars & Tasting, Terra Gallery, San Francisco, California
Tasted Thursday, February 9, 2012 by rjonwine@gmail.com with 2,128 views

Introduction

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The focus of this year's Italian Wine Masters trade tasting was two-fold: Prosecco (the subject of the first morning seminar, and well represented in the trade tasting) and Sangiovese. Tuscan Sangiovese in the form of Chianti, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and Brunello di Montalcino was the subject of the second morning seminar, and all three Sangiovese-based wines were presented by multiple producers in the afternoon trade tasting.

Because I wanted to taste through all the Proseccos assembled for the event, I had to choose which version of Sangiovese I was going to focus on for the rest of the afternoon, as there was no way I could have tasted all the red wines on offer that day in the time allotted. Naturally I chose my favorite expression of the Sangiovese grape, Brunello di Montalcino, taking full advantage of the opportunity to taste through 69 Brunellos from over 30 producers.

I am quite sure I made the right choice. The 2006 and 2007 Brunello vintages, which were the bulk of what was available for tasting and that are now coming to market, were both outstanding, albeit in different ways. The 2006 wines have the massive structure, complexity and capacity for long aging that we saw in the magnificent 2004 vintage. 2007, on the other hand, was a ripe vintage, whose relatively lush and accessible fruit tends to obscure the fact that the wines also have serious tannins and structure, although probably not for quite as great longevity as the 2006s. And there were many terrific producers on hand, offering both normale and riserva Brunellos that captivated the senses with their gorgeous perfumes and complex, delightful palates. I definitely experienced Brunello heaven for good long stretches at this event. I also enjoyed talking with producers who were present. A special treat was a brief meeting with Matt Kramer, pictured below, who is not only one of my favorite wine writers, but also one of my most valued sources on Italian wines.

My favorite producers present, each responsible for one or more wines that I rated 92 points or higher, were Banfi, Barbi, Campogiovanni, Capanna, Coldisole, Collemattoni, Fanti, Il Poggione, Le Chiuse, Loacker Corte Pavone, Luce, Oliveto, Pinino, Poggio Salvi, Uccelliera and Voliero.

My favorite wines of the tasting, which I rated 92 points or higher, were:
2006 Castello Banfi Riserva Poggio All'Oro - 92+ points
2006 Fattoria dei Barbi (Colombini) Riserva - 93+ points
2006 Campogiovanni (San Felice) Riserva Vigna del Quercione - 92 points
2007 Capanna - 93 points
2006 Capanna Riserva - 94 points
2007 Coldisole - 93+ points
2006 Coldisole - 92+ points
2005 Coldisole - 92+ points
2001 Coldisole Riserva - 92+ points
2006 Collemattoni - 92 points
2006 Fanti (Tenuta San Filippo) - 92+ points
2005 Fanti (Tenuta San Filippo) - 92 points
2004 Fanti (Tenuta San Filippo) - 93+ points
2006 Il Poggione (Proprietá Franceschi) Riserva Vigna Paganelli - 92 points
2004 Le Chiuse Brunello di Montalcino - 95 points
2001 Le Chiuse Brunello di Montalcino Riserva - 95+ points
1999 Le Chiuse Brunello di Montalcino Riserva - 93 points
2007 Tenute Loacker Corte Pavone - 93 points
2006 Tenute Loacker Corte Pavone - 92 points
2007 Luce - 92 points
2004 Tenuta Oliveto Riserva - 93 points
2006 Pinino Clan Destino - 93 points
1994 Poggio Salvi - 92+ points
2007 Uccelliera - 94+ points
2006 Uccelliera Riserva - 96+ points
2007 Voliero - 92+ points

For my complete tasting notes, and additional background on selected producers, please see below.

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Flight 1 - Banfi (3 Notes)

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Flight 2 - Barbi (3 Notes)

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Flight 3 - Belpoggio (1 Note)

Flight 4 - Camigliano (1 Note)

  • 2007 Camigliano Brunello di Montalcino 89 Points

    Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino

    Medium dark ruby color; oak, berry, dried berry, ripe raspberry, spice nose; ripe, soft, tart berry, oak, spice, baked cherry, baked raspberry palate; approachable now; medium-plus finish

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Flight 5 - Campogiovanni (2 Notes)

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Flight 6 - Capanna (2 Notes)

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Flight 7 - Capanne Ricci (1 Note)

Flight 8 - Castelgiocondo (2 Notes)

Flight 9 - Coldisole (4 Notes)

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Flight 10 - Collemattoni (1 Note)

Flight 11 - Fanti (4 Notes)

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Flight 12 - Il Greppone Mazzi (1 Note)

Flight 13 - Il Marroneto (3 Notes)

Flight 14 - Il Poggione (3 Notes)

Flight 15 - La Lecciaia (4 Notes)

Flight 16 - La Poderina (1 Note)

Flight 17 - Le Chiuse (4 Notes)

This was the source of one of the two sets of outstanding Brunellos I sampled at this tasting. The vineyard was first lpanted by Franco Biondi Santi, the uncle of the current owner. He used grapes from this vineyard for his Riserva. Biondi Santi's niece, Simonetta Valiani, and her husband Niccolo Magnelli are the current owners of the vineyard that now amounts to seen hectares. Le Chiuse is certified organic and uses indigenous yeasts for fermentation.
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Flight 18 - Lisini (1 Note)

Flight 19 - Loacker Corte Pavone (2 Notes)

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Flight 20 - Luce (1 Note)

Flight 21 - Oliveto (3 Notes)

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Flight 22 - Palazzo (3 Notes)

Flight 23 - Pian Delle Vigne (2 Notes)

Flight 24 - Pietroso (1 Note)

Flight 25 - Pinino (3 Notes)

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Flight 26 - Poggio Salvi (3 Notes)

Flight 27 - Sassetti (Livio) (2 Notes)

Flight 28 - Sassodisole (2 Notes)

Flight 29 - Terre Nere (2 Notes)

Flight 30 - Uccelliera (3 Notes)

This was one of the two standout producers of the tasting, along with Le Chiuse. Owner Andrea Cortonesi first purchased the original four hectares, including a half hectare of old vineyard formerly belonging to Ciacci Piccolomini, in 1986. He retained the original name of the farmhouse on the property--Uccelliera, which means "birdhouse." He acquired an additional two hectares for a total of six, which are high density planted, with 3,000 to 5,000 vines per hectare. The vineyard is farmed organically. The wines are aged in Slavoninan and French oak barrels for a minimum of two years, and up to 36 months in some vintages. The receive an additional six months aging in bottle before being released for sale. The Riserva, which is made in outstanding years, is aged for a minimum of 36 months in barrel and up to 42 months, with an additional 18 months in bottle.
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Flight 31 - Voliero (1 Note)

  • 2007 Voliero Brunello di Montalcino 92 Points

    Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino

    Medium dark red violet color; dried berry, dried cherry nose; ripe berry, dried berry, cherry, sandalwood palate; needs 2 years; medium-plus finish 92+ points

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Closing

Matt Kramer
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