- > A "cult" wine tasting and lunch
A "cult" wine tasting and lunch
Restaurant Bak, Amsterdam, NL
Tasted Sunday, September 24, 2023 by Xavier Auerbach with 371 views
Flight 1 - Bernaudeau (4 Notes)
Flight 2 - Leroy / Lejeune (4 Notes)
2020 Clos des plantes Poïèsis 92 Points
France, Loire Valley, Vin de France
From the Mont Benault. Creamy, relaxed, airy, steely and minerally, attractively yeasty, long but slightly light finish.
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2019 Clos des plantes Poïèsis cuvée 24 mois 92 Points
France, Vin de France
From the Mont Benault. Aged in barrel for 24 months. Delicately honeyed, salty, quite alcoholic, especially on the long finish, quite impressive but not entirely “bien dans sa peau”? A bit blunt on the finish.
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2020 Richard Leroy Chenin Les Noëls de Montbenault 94 Points
France, Vin de France
Quite closed on the nose initially, opens up with oxygen, green apple and citrus, whiff of linen, slightly autolytic, very energetic, power without weight, great drive and length on the finish. Great potential.
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2020 Richard Leroy Chenin Les Rouliers 92 Points
France, Vin de France
Quite a full-bodied and rich style, delicately honeyed, hinting at botrytis, whiff of pineapple, slightly loose on the finish. Good but not my favourite style of Chenin Blanc.
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Flight 3 - Pattes Loup (4 Notes)
2015 Domaine Pattes Loup Chablis 1er Cru Butteaux Mise Tardive 93 Points
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
Ripe and mature, open and expressive in the typical Pico-style, nice touch of the lees, still energetic at eight years of age, impressive finish.
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2014 Domaine Pattes Loup Chablis 1er Cru Butteaux
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
Oxidative nose, crème brûlée turns into dried apples, on the palate the acidic structure is completely intact, drying bitters on the finish. Not sure if this correct, not rated.
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2013 Domaine Pattes Loup Chablis 1er Cru Butteaux 93 Points
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
Light and slightly loose structure, still fresh and bright with a lovely aromatic evolution, wonderfully floral nose reminiscent of a light Auslese - ripe yellow apple and flowers, lovely cut, gentle bitters, good length. On fine form, fully mature.
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2012 Domaine Pattes Loup Chablis 1er Cru Butteaux 94 Points
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
Wonderful nose, classical style, beautifully formed palate, noticeable bitters, rich and salty finish. Grand Vin.
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Flight 4 - Nicolas Jacob (4 Notes)
2019 Nicolas Jacob Côtes du Jura Le Clos 91 Points
France, Jura, Côtes du Jura
Ripe and rich style, dried apples, noticeable bitters, slightly difficult finish.
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2020 Nicolas Jacob Chardonnay Côtes du Jura Les Chazaux 92 Points
France, Jura, Côtes du Jura
Complete and ripe Jura character, more comfortable and rounded than the l’Étoile wines, noticeable bitters, not as precise and energetic. Nowhere near as brilliant as last time - bottle variation? Or was it the company of the l'Étoile wines?
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2020 Nicolas Jacob Chardonnay L'Etoile la-bas 93 Points
France, Jura, L'Etoile
Energetic and fresh for such a warm year, develops its typical peach skin character (especially on the finish), intense acidity, great drive and precision, very good length.
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2020 Nicolas Jacob Chardonnay L'Etoile Là-haut 95 Points
France, Jura, L'Etoile
All minerality and energy, rich and ripe but so tightly coiled, seamless, lemon juice, long and precise, supremely classical Jura expression, develops beautifully in the glass. One of the true stars today - in extremely competitive company.
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Flight 5 - El Babou (4 Notes)
2015 Olivier Saint-Priest Chardonnay Vin de France El Babou Champs-Longs 95 Points
France, Vin de France
Two years sous voile. Such a powerhouse, so complete, has everything.
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2018 Olivier Saint-Priest Chardonnay El Babou Chalasse 93 Points
France, Vin de France
Ouillé. Very Jura, marvellous terroir expression, great energy, good body, apple skin, big lemon acidity, slightly hard bitters, long and driven finish.
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2018 Olivier Saint-Priest Chardonnay Vin de France El Babou La Beaumette 94 Points
France, Vin de France
Ouillé. Similar style to the Chalasse, sligthly lighter but with great precision, floral, playful, lemon juice and earth, lovely whiff of wood.
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2019 Olivier Saint-Priest Savagnin El Babou Rock'n'Roll 94 Points
France, Vin de France
Ouillé until the next harvest, oxidative élévage afterwards, great intensity, beautiful interplay between oxidative and citrus elements, lovely hint of creaminess, playful and long finish.
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Flight 6 - Marthe Henry-Boillot (1 Note)
2020 Maison Marthe Henry-Boillot Bourgogne Blanc Monatine 91 Points
France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Blanc
Magnum. Next to Sous la Velle. Older wood, very little sulfur. Solid Burgundy, good weight, not too earthy, lovely purity in the fruit, silky texture, good length.
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Flight 7 - Maison Glandien (5 Notes)
2021 Maison Glandien l'Ouverture Blanc 91 Points
France, Vin de France
Alsatian Riesling. Nice varietal expression, hint of earth, bright acidity, gently grippy bitters, flowers and peachy fruit, pure and expressive, good length. Attractive, playful, easy.
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2021 Maison Glandien L'Estivage 91 Points
France, Burgundy
Gringet from th Savoie. Light and bright and tight, steely acidity, lovely varietal typicity, slightly reductive, mountain freshness, floral, good length.
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2021 Maison Glandien Les Écully 90 Points
France, Vin de France
Old vine Gamay. Beautiful nose, elegant and seductive palate, tight and quite dry on the chalky finish. Appetising.
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2021 Maison Glandien La Leux 90 Points
France, Vin de France
Pinot Noir from the Côte Chalonnaise. Floral and fresh, stemmy whole bunch character, juicy and playful palate, nice grip, quite dry and tight on the finish with a hint of verjus.
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2021 Maison Glandien l'Ouverture 91 Points
France, Vin de France
Made from 100% Gamay, younger vines. A hint of rubber on the nose is somehow attractive, bubblegum, red cherries, hint of warm spices, easy and supple, light and bright floral and fresh, juicy cherry and berry fruit, good persistence, hint of green apple.
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Flight 8 - Les Jardin Vivants (2 Notes)
2020 Les Jardins Vivants (Tino Kuban) Les Vaux 95 Points
France, Vin de France
Very low production per hectare, bottle no. 203 from 247 bottles made, 100% Aligoté. Big and powerful style, d’Auvenay-like concentration and texture but no lack of elegance, popcorn, wonderfully floral, top quality low / no toast oak, savoury and delicately salty, finish fans out with its rich and layered fruit. Magnificent. Really worked on the limit - and it works.
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2020 Les Jardins Vivants (Tino Kuban) En Buzigny Rouge 94 Points
France, Vin de France
Bottle No. 222 from 254 bottles produced. Clearly reminiscent of Prieuré-Roch in style. Beautifully layered cherry and peach fruit, papery but firm tannins, incredibly floral, hint of black pepper, clean and transparent, tight and youthful finish. No an obvious wine, but there is real quality here.
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Flight 9 - Rolet / Jacob (2 Notes)
2021 Nicolas Jacob Gamay Vin de France G 92 Points
France, Vin de France
Wonderfully light and bright, fresh and soft and silky, flowers and strawberries, cool minerality, hints of spice and cream, lovely intensity without weight, clear and bright and transparent, percaline tannins, very good persistence. Delightful.
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1988 Domaine Rolet Trousseau Arbois 91 Points
France, Jura, Arbois
Magnum, pristine condition, purchased at the estate last year. Very developed colour, almost no red left, fragrant nose, lively, candied strawberry, spices; lively and fresh palate, supple and elegant, slightly separating acidity, hint of sharpness on the finish. Wonderful to drink, objectively a bit too old.
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Flight 10 - Rolet / Rousset-Martin (2 Notes)
1996 Domaine Rolet Arbois Tradition Blanc 93 Points
France, Jura, Arbois
Magnum. Full golden colour, beautifully evolved, deep candied fruit and warm spices on the nose without even a whiff of oxidation, wonderfully bright and fresh for its age, crisp acidity, salty, long and linear finish.
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2018 François Rousset-Martin Côtes du Jura Oxy "more" Voile No 4 94 Points
France, Jura, Côtes du Jura
Château Chalon from Sous Roche, bottled after four years sous voile. Overripe pear, putty, huge power and acidity, uncomprimising but not austere, savoury and salty, excellent length.
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2021 I. et S. Bernaudeau Les Onglés 93 Points
France, Vin de France
Very light (11.5% ABV) and pure, spicy depth, green apple, crisp and minerally, steely acidity (not unlike an Aligoté), very long finish, citrus.
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2021 I. et S. Bernaudeau Les Terres Blanches 93 Points
France, Vin de France
Chablis-like sensation in the minerality, immaculate varietal expression, citrus and green apple, tight and bright, tart finish. Excellent potential.
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2021 I. et S. Bernaudeau Les Coqueries 92 Points
France, Vin de France
Delicately honeyed nose, slightly muffled, yellow fruit, slightly loose, not as tightly wound as the other wines.
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2021 I. et S. Bernaudeau Les Nourrissons 94 Points
France, Vin de France
Marvellous nose, Meursault like, huge energy from the old vines, wonderfully elegant, layered finish with amazing length. Star quality.
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