Wildman & Sons 2007 Burgundy Barrel Tasting

Very, very brief notes that will probably be of limited utility to most folks. Unfortunately I ran out of time and didn't take any notes on the 2006 Nicolas Potel red Burgundies.

• 2007 Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils Chablis

  France, Burgundy, Chablis

  Aromas of lemon peel, mineral, well-integrated wood. Palate follows nose with green fruit, some nice midpalate richness and tart, racy acidity. Good freshness, and impressive quality for this level.

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• 2007 Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils Chablis 1er Cru Vaillon

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru

  More complex nose than the AC, a bit riper as well, but otherwise similar. Touch more apparent wood but still very tasteful. Great bright, fresh acids.

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• 2007 Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

  Tight, ungenerous nose (served too cold), showing more wood. Very tight palate, but an enormous step up in concentration here from the Vaillons. Almost painful intensity, with crystal-cut precision. Really a wow wine.

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• 2007 Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils Chablis Grand Cru Valmur

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

  A step up in ripeness from the 1er crus, some tropical fruit, but less apparent oak than the Vaudesir. Good concentration in the mouth but less focused intensity than the Vaudesir. Fine balance, and very good all around but I'd rather be punished by the Vaudesir.

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• 2007 Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

  Tight nose, mostly mineral and faint lemon. Extremely tight palate, showing mostly mineral notes, but oh so concentrated. Oak is so well integrated here it can barely be detected. Very, very good potential.

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• 2007 Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos Clos des Hospices dans Les Clos

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

  Aromatically more open than the Clos, showing yellow fruit and some toasty richness from wood. Palate follows nose, taut and lemony and again quite toasty. Drinking better today than most of these wines but also showing more wood.

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• 2007 Jean-Jacques Vincent Pouilly-Fuissé Château de Fuissé Tête de Cru

  France, Burgundy, Mâconnais, Pouilly-Fuissé

  Perfumed wood, butterscotch, citrus. Rich, voluptuous palate with lemony, autolytic flavors and huge amounts of oak. There's some aggressive wood tannin on the back and slight alcoholic warmth.

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• 2007 Jean-Jacques Vincent Pouilly-Fuissé Les Combettes Château de Fuissé

  France, Burgundy, Mâconnais, Pouilly-Fuissé

  Ripe lemon, figgy aromatics. Rich, with intense mouth sweetness and a round, tactile mouthfeel. Very seductive.

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• 2007 Jean-Jacques Vincent Pouilly-Fuissé Le Clos Château de Fuissé

  France, Burgundy, Mâconnais, Pouilly-Fuissé

  Rich, buttery marmalade nose. Some sweet oak. Again a big seductive, full-bodied mouthfeel with some wood tannin and a bit of warmth.

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• 2007 Jean-Jacques Vincent Pouilly-Fuissé Les Brûles Château de Fuissé

  France, Burgundy, Mâconnais, Pouilly-Fuissé

  Bit more balanced currently than the Combettes and Clos, with more fruit to buffer the huge thwack of wood. On the other hand less acid shows through vs. the rest of this '07 lineup. Full-bodied.

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• 2007 Jean-Jacques Vincent Pouilly-Fuissé Château de Fuissé Vieilles Vignes

  France, Burgundy, Mâconnais, Pouilly-Fuissé

  Fresher than the 1er crus, with more juicy acidity and a bit less obvious wood. Good depth and length. Bit of warmth on the back from alcohol.

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• 2007 M.J. Vincent Juliénas Domaine Le Cotoyon

  France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Juliénas

  Juicy, bright carbonic grapey and strawberry fruit. Very light and fresh, easy-drinking and fruity. Almost rosé-like.

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• 2007 M.J. Vincent Morgon Les Charmes

  France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Morgon

  More interesting, soil-inflected nose. Full in the mouth, with moderately rich strawberry-ish fruit. A bit of aggressively astringent tannin on the back that seems to be from wood.

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• 2007 Château de Chamirey Mercurey Blanc

  France, Burgundy, Côte Chalonnaise, Mercurey

  Citric, marmalade aromas with some sweet wood. Rich and mouthfilling with some palate sweetness. Very concentrated and sweetly fruity, with a bit of wood tannin around the edges. Very thick-textured.

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• 2007 Château de Chamirey Mercurey 1er Cru La Mission

  France, Burgundy, Côte Chalonnaise, Mercurey 1er Cru

  Very ripe lemon curd, oaky nose. Like the Mercurey AC, rather sweetly fruity palate. Nice swell of concentration, but too much aggressive toasted, popcorn wood and back end tannin. Not sure if it will integrate.

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• 2007 Olivier Leflaive Chablis Les Deux Rives

  France, Burgundy, Chablis

  Lemon gelee nose. Salty, mineral palate, tasty but lightweight. Good.

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• 2007 Olivier Leflaive Bourgogne Blanc Les Sétilles

  France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Blanc

  Mineral, oak nose with some whispery citric notes. Refreshing, lemony white fruits palate with great juicy acids. Bit more length on the back than I'd expect at this level.

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• 2007 Olivier Leflaive Meursault

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault

  Buttery, oak dominated nose with citric notes. Flavors of pear, spice, apples cooked in brown butter, with good citric acidity. Finishes short with a touch of woody astringence on the back.

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• 2007 Olivier Leflaive Chassagne-Montrachet

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet

  Clean, mineral nose. Great purity on the palate with pear, citric notes, mineral. More weight and concentration than the previous wines, but better definition and wood integration as well. Maybe a touch of alcoholic warmth on the back. Quite nice.

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• 2007 Olivier Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet

  Gorgeous mineral, white fruity nose with subtle, classy wood. Elegant white fruits and mineral palate with nice weight and beautiful acids. Deftly integrated wood, doesn't stick out at all. Excellent village Puligny.

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• 2007 Olivier Leflaive Meursault 1er Cru Charmes

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru

  Clean, pure nose of gentle white and yellow fruits. Just gorgeous on the palate, with pure white fruits and minerality, great weight and acids and very tasteful, classy wood. So elegant for Meursault. Love it.

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• 2007 Olivier Leflaive Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Vergers Clos Saint-Marc

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru

  Mineral, sweet oak nose. Gentle, water-like weight on the palate with white and yellow fruits, mineral. Some wood sticks out a bit, including a bit of astringence on the back. Very good, but needs some time.

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• 2007 Olivier Leflaive Corton-Charlemagne

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru

  Sweet wood, lemon zest, great zingy acid, mouthfilling intensity. Showing a lot of wood currently, but beneath that the wine is gorgeously light-footed with great minerality and purity of fruit. With better integration this should be unreal.

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• 2007 Domaine Jacques Prieur Meursault Clos de Mazeray

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault

  Some volatility on the nose. Sweet and concentrated, round palate with yellow fruits, toasty popcorn oak. Good length. Eh.

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• 2007 Domaine Jacques Prieur Beaune 1er Cru Les Champs Pimont Blanc

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru

  Lifted ripe yellow fruit nose. Concentrated apple sauce palate with aggressively spicy, tannic wood. Some warmth from alcohol. Not doing it for me.

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• 2007 Domaine Jacques Prieur Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Combettes

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru

  Lifted citric nose. Ripe apple, pear nose. The wood here is less obvious and toasty than the Champs-Pimont or Mazeray, and there's more midpalate concentration to back it up. Touch of warmth but by far the best of this producer's whites being poured.

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• 2007 Stephane Aviron Beaujolais-Villages

  France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Beaujolais-Villages

  Pretty and aromatic, with bright cherry, orange peel, tree bark. Light, effortless feminine palate. Very juicy, light and delicious, almost rosé-like. Very nice for this level.

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• 2007 Stephane Aviron Fleurie Vieilles Vignes

  France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Fleurie

  Funky, lifted nose. Oddly savory, celery stick aromatics. But gorgeously feminine in the mouth, fresh and silky-textured with strawberry, celery seed. Very pretty.

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• 2007 Stephane Aviron Côte de Brouilly Vieilles Vignes

  France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Côte de Brouilly

  Vegetal, celery stick nose. More masculate palate, with red cherry fruit. More fruit sweetness, bigger-shouldered than the Villages or Fleurie.

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• 2007 Stephane Aviron Moulin-à-Vent Vieilles Vignes

  France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Moulin-à-Vent

  Creamy black cherry vanilla nose. Good weight and grip, very alive. Some wood but it integrates pretty well. Nice purity to the fruit, in spite of the somewhat heavy handed treatment.

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• 2007 Stephane Aviron Morgon Côte du Py Vieilles Vignes

  France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Morgon

  Great soil inflected nose. Quite dense and chewy palate. Good freshness, probably some wood but it integrates. Fairly tannic, needs some time to integrate. Good potential.

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• 2007 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin

  Masculine, meaty nose, mineral. Great purity and elegant weight. Some creamy but already well-integrated wood. Quite good.

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• 2007 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Charmes-Chambertin

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru

  Meaty, dark fruited, vanilla nose. Bright cherry-fruited palate with intense concentration and good complexity. Some creamy wood, mineral. So young, but great potential.

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• 2007 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

  Sweet, ripe, and concentrated. Muscular, but with elegant weight and lovely acids. Nice soil tones and a bit of oak vanillans but not overwhelming.

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• 2007 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Chambertin

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin Grand Cru

  Excellent, embryonic, but my pen finally failed me here. The first wine I refused to spit all day.

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