Poured at Le Papillion in San Jose with a varied tasting menu. Deep golden amber color in the glass serves notice that this wine will not be standard fare. Nose is heady with cognac, mulled spice and honeysuckle. Very little fruit or acidity I've come to expect from grand cru white burgundy, more like a spirit than a wine. The first taste shows crispness and some echo of acidity, but the cognac-calvados feel remains through the front and mid-palate. Mouthfeel is full and fat, like a 15th century cherub by Botticelli. Finish is long but remarkably thin, as this wine is perhaps struggling under the weight of its age. Very interesting, but dare I say disappointing for its lack of true complexity, minerality and classic bright fruit. Getting old is a bitch.
Alt-Paulée at Bouley: Always exciting to drink Montrachet. And yet, this was not a moving bottle. Maybe the wine just isn't ready, or maybe the fat of the vintage obscures the other components of the wine. It had the roundness and volume that can be so compelling, but it was without the complexity of aroma and flavor that make this wine so special.
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