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Vintage Tastings

  • By John Kapon
    The Doctor is Still In, 4/18/2007 90 points

    (Lafon Montrachet) might very well have been the last bottle of this on Earth. Its nose was still special, caramel creeping out at first followed by corn, wheat and pan-fried butter. The palate had old, yeasty flavors and a touch of tangy citrus. Earth and book flavors were on its finish. This was still a good drink at age thirty despite the fact that it came from one of the least collectible vintages of the last thirty years. Soft, tender and with a touch of wax, the Lafon was pleasant, still holding on. I believe it was Allen who remarked, ‘quite remarkable, not a good vintage at all. I’m impressed. In the context of the vintage, it’s brilliant. It’s lovely wine but not a great wine.’ Then a ratings debate ensued. Our anonymous friend felt it was flirting with four stars, I found it flirting with 90 points, but each of those ratings ‘do not really justify the quality.’ Allen gave us some vintage details: ‘high acid, low ripeness, a lot of rain.’ In the end, I decided to give it 90 points because of the context; however, I couldn’t argue with an assessment of a point of two less

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