Game and Rhone Tasting @ Peggy's

Great tasting organized by Tom B. at Peggy's Villa Reynart.
First goal of the evening was plain hedonisitic pleasure, but we also tried to find out how the gems of the Northern and Southern Rhone combined with the excellent cuisine of Peggy Thaens.
It was a memorable evening in every aspect.
All (most?) wines were served blinded, although we saw the list of expected wines before the tasting. Uncorking and/or decanting took place 2 to 12 hours before the event.

• 1995 Domaine de Nalys Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc 88 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  Floral, slightly waxy and oxidative bouquet. Bright and elegant on the palate. Traditional structure, not big and bulky. Pretty hints of almond in its long and balanced finish. Nice surprise, still holding up, but should be drunk by now. 16,5/20

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• 2001 Clos des Papes Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc 89 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  Opens up with some hints of paper/cardboard. After aeration this changes in a nutty kind of impression, combined with vanillin. This one has always been characterised by a firm dosage of oak and it still is, although the palate is getting more interesting by a tropical fruit/fresh figs-salsa. Adequate levels of freshness. Still very fine, not old or worn-out at all. Drink remaining 3 bottles in 2 years. 17/20

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• 1978 Patrick Jaume Châteauneuf-du-Pape Domaine des Chanssaud 90 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  Bottle in pristine condition. Translucent terracotta-red. Very fine gamey, earthy nose with still a few tiny redcurrants peeking through. Strong, meaty and tight in the mouth, with refreshing, brisk acidity. Amazingly enjoyable, honorable and tasty. Geez! 17,5/20

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• 1998 Domaine Font de Michelle Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Etienne Gonnet 85 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  Milky chocolate-covered prunes and that's the best part. Slightly reductive, barnyard hillbilly-wine. Disharmonious and drying in the aftertaste. OTH or faulty bottle? Dunno...15/20

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• 1998 Domaine Bois de Boursan Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée des Félix 92 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  This is one beautiful mature Chateauneuf. Good freshness in the bouquet which has appealing touches of all kinds of kitchen-garden stuff. Very Burgundy-like, strong and svelte. Well matured, beautiful dusty tannines, classic cut. Still some red cherry/raspberry-action in the attack. Very good balance and harmony all the way through the delicate but lenghty finish. Great wine. 18/20

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• 1998 Domaine de la Janasse Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Chaupin 88 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  Typical mature Chateauneuf made in the modern lush and ripe style you often see these days. Spicy, peppery beeftea, hint of sweetness coming from the grenache-grapes and the wines' considerable alcohol. Good. 16,5/20

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• 1998 Domaine de la Janasse Châteauneuf-du-Pape Vieilles Vignes 90 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  Much more complete and complexe that the preceding Chaupin 98. Good matter and substance, animalism and earthyness. Maybe just a little to sweet, but all-in-all pretty impressive. 17,5/20

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• 1998 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape 92 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  Great purity and clarity on this wine. Loved the dusty, grainy tannines which support the wonderful matter and keeps it quite elegant and full of finesse. This lovely, traditional and complex example of Chateauneuf is a lot more up my alley. Persistent, surly, sturdy and dry(!) finish. Really lovely. 18/20

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• 2001 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape 93 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  Very, very powerful, rough and tannic. Black and red fruit is clear, creamy, well defined and concentrated. Lots of licorice. Alcohol still somewhat prominent. Beautiful wine of great stature and substance, significant cellaring potential. 18+/20

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• 2001 Domaine du Pégau Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Réservée 89 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  Sweeter and more international/modern in style than the example I had 2 weeks ago. But again this is hot, fierce and uncompromising. Either you like it or you don't. And I am not convinced. Apart from considerable bottle variation, I think this kind of Southern Rhone is "too much". This bottle was extremely spicy, with prominent hints of juniperberry, cloves, cardamom and gingerbread. 17/20

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• 2001 Domaine Pierre Usseglio & Fils Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée de mon Aïeul 88 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  Clean, correct, well made, sympathetic. Those kind of words popped into my mind when I had to judge this lauded cuvée. Sort of a "Hugh Grant meets Tom Hanks"-kind of an ideal son-in-law, if you know what I mean. Ripe and sultry sweet little fruit basket, horsey, spicy, dollop of old wood, hot stones, it's all there. But there's no excitement, no firework. It's so seamless that it's verging to become tedious and dull. International and likeable in style. 16,5/20

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• 2007 Domaine de la Janasse Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée XXL 87 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  Please keep in mind that I'm not the one to listen to, when you're looking for praise on 2007's in Southern Rhone...
  For my palate this wine is completely out of balance. Sweet and superficial like a popsicle, although there is some vanilla/coconut peeping through. Excessively powerful, extracted and alcoholic. Reminds me of an Amarone. Impressive and overwhelming entry. And after that it's all breadth and thickness, but it's complexity seems only skin deep. This wine explodes in your mouth, and then there is no focus, delineation, development or even finish (although the wine is very persistent). It's a Big Bang, followed by a (long) fade-out. Probably (hopefully) this wine will gain in interest and complexity in the years to follow, but I doubt whether it will ever be something for my palate. 16/20

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• 2001 Domaine Pierre Usseglio & Fils Châteauneuf-du-Pape Réserve des Deux Frères 93 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  The bouquet on this wine is absolutely beautiful, deep and complex. Very meaty, creamy and pure in its fruit definition and its secondary flavor-profile is down-right fantastic. So, even for me, this is a marvelous wine which only drawback is that it is still pushing to hard. In a few years time, I think it's youthful fuss and racket has abated and might even score an extra point on my scale (hence the '+'). 18+/20

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• 2006 Le Clos du Caillou Châteauneuf-du-Pape Domaine du Caillou Les Quartz 88 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  The nose is dominated by a floral, sweetish kind of smell. Lots of fruit too. Although it's good and lengthy, this wine doesn't do the trick for me. It's too polished, too sweet and too hot (for me). Tell-tale modernistic Ch9, slightly lacking in character and definition. 16.5/20

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• 2006 Domaine Grand Veneur Châteauneuf-du-Pape Vieilles Vignes 90 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  Nose chockfull of black fruit. Sultry, salacious, thick and creamy. This is very modern in style, heavy dosage of oak, and so youthful. Nevertheless it's spicy, nice and snappy and pretty tasty. 17+/20

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• 2007 Domaine Paul Autard Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Juline 92 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  This is still completely in its primary and voluptuous fruit-phase. Lots of oak, creamy caramel, lactic, fruit-yoghurt kind of freshness. Not too extracted to my palate. Modern and charming. Excellent wine, very sexy but way to young... 18/20

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• 2007 Domaine de la Grange des Pères Vin de Pays de l'Hérault 92 Points

  France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Vin de Pays de l'Hérault

  Opens with a very rustic and barnyard-ey nose, but underneath all those savage elements you can find beautiful layers of black fruit, cappuccino and milk chocolate. Wonderful wine, lots of depth and complexity. Okay, it's modern-styled, very powerful, sweet and pretty high in alcohol, but very, very good. 18/20

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• 2007 Domaine de la Janasse Châteauneuf-du-Pape Vieilles Vignes 96 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  Since I am not a particular fan of Ch9 and not very fond of the 2007 vintage either, I was quite surprised about how much I liked this wine. Although clearly a descendant from this heralded vintage, this was (relatively) tight and restrained. Clear, pure and powerful, very broad but with excellent focus. Not flabby, sweet, alcoholic or overextracted like most of the Ch9's from this vintage (IMHO). Fantastic glass of wine with enticing nuances of bacon, ham, tomato, olives, black fruit and spices. Wow. 19/20

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• 1999 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage Blanc 93 Points

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage

  Liked this one a bit better than most of the others. Although it had some difficulties to keep its feet when served next to a very rich and quite sweet dish of pheasant, sauerkraut and apple, I liked this wine for its enormous length, size and richness, its nuances of honey, hay and baked apple. On the other hand I agree that this could have been a sub-par bottle, because it failed to make 'a click'. And that's what white Chave's usually do. 18+/20

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• 2007 M. Chapoutier Ermitage Blanc Le Méal 94 Points

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage

  Soft, carressing, unctuous and oily. Although this seemingly low-acid peach-yoghurt-scented beauty has a firm oak impression in the back, it remains very pure, clean and focused and has wonderful fraicheur. Sure, it's way to young and maybe somewhat subdued on the nose, but - BOY - is this delicious. 18,5/20

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• 2005 E. Guigal Ermitage Blanc Ex-Voto 94 Points

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage

  Extremely fat and oaky in the nose. Still an infant, but it was a privilege to meet this puppy in its younger days! It has a long way to go, but already shows its breed and class. Behind all that oak and concentration, there is fantastic minerality and complexity should be breathtaking in 3 - 5 years time. At this moment it has some youthful clumsiness and imbalance, time will straighten that out. Boy, is this wine ferociously attractive! 18,5/20

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• 2006 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage Blanc 96 Points

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage

  Superb unctuous richness and phenomenal complexity. At this stage still very tightly wound and hard to unscramble all those different nuances of spices and fruit, but this one will leave you grinning from ear to ear! Stature, aromatic profile, cellaring potential and pure drinking pleasure are all abundantly present. Absolutely majestic juice. 19/20 for now.

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• 1995 Jean-Michel Gerin Côte-Rôtie Les Grandes Places 84 Points

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

  Pfew... didn't like this one very much... Although its elegant, refreshing and modest in its presentation, I had the impression that this was well past its prime and struggling to stay alive. Decayed leaces, blood, iron/rust, drying finish. 14,5/20

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• 1997 Tardieu-Laurent Côte-Rôtie 85 Points

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

  This wine has an enormous duality which does not do it any good. The bouquet is wonderful, big and impressive, bretty (which is okay, if you like it) and full of dark fruit and oriental spice. But in the mouth it's arid, flat, anonymous and uninspiring. Sure it has (some) fruit and plenty of structure, but I thought it was boring and pale-faced. Sorry to say. 15/20

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• 1997 Michel & Stéphane Ogier Côte-Rôtie Cuvée la Belle Hélène 85 Points

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

  Nose is spicy and herbal, dominated by barnyard aromas. Only a small hint of redcurrant peeking through. Very earthy, traditional and austere, drying on the finish. Actually I thought this was quite disappointing, given its reputation. Was hard work to find something positive to say about this wine. 15/20

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• 1999 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle 84 Points

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage

  Oomph! This is disappointing... Thin, flat and drying. Recognizable as Old-World Syrah, but deficient in a lot of aspects, especially regarding its price-tag and reputation. Drinkable. 14,5/20

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• 2001 E. Guigal Ermitage Ex-Voto

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage

  Served alongside a lovely deer-filet main-course during our tasting at Peggy's Villa Reynart. No formal notes, but a gorgeous wine with great stature.

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• 1999 Delas Frères Hermitage Les Bessards 89 Points

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage

  In comparison with earlier (more positive) experiences this particular bottle showed some imbalance. Lovely wine which leaves a classical Northern Rhone-footprint. Fresh fruit supported by herbs, spices, game, sweet tobacco and leather, all together in a corset of sturdy but ripe tannines. Alas, this bottle was just a little bit awkward. Still, 17/20

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• 1999 M. Chapoutier Ermitage Le Pavillon 91 Points

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage

  Second time in 2 weeks that I encounter this beautiful wine. This time it sat for significantly more hours in the decanter and it showed. Much less hard and uncomprimising. Today it showed its elegance and slender structure, but it's still very powerful, persistent and austere. More like a sinewy marathonman than a bulky weightlifter, if you feel what I mean. 17,5-18/20

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• 2001 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage 90 Points

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage

  Still a little bit stubborn and modest in its complexity, but I got nice hints of dried currants, plum, blackberries and spicebox. A masculine wine, sturdy and strong, but starting to show its softer, feminine side. And that change of action is leaving me a bit puzzled. Not as bold on the midpalate as I expected, maybe even a touch lean? Very good, but not outstanding (at the moment). 17.5/20

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• 2003 Rene Rostaing Côte-Rôtie Côte Blonde 92 Points

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

  Strikingly light in colour. On the nose I got really gorgeous gamey impressions, also black fruit and lots of smoky finesse. This is already extremely potable and complex and there is a intriguing duality in the wonderful aromatic elegance and fraicheur on one hand, while on the other hand the structure is quite masculine and a touch austere. 18/20

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• 2003 Kalleske Shiraz Greenock 92 Points

  Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Barossa Valley

  This one was served as a mystery guest in an extensive Rhone-tasting. Though easily recognisable as a New-World-Shiraz, it certainly rang my bell. Smoky and sultry, blackcherry-jam, vanilla, charcoal, oak starting to integrate. Very tasty and clean, but there is some mid-palate heat and it's slightly drying on the finish. Excellent wine and its length and complexity are certainly above average. 18/20

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• 2005 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie Château d'Ampuis 90 Points

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

  Opening with a fresh, clear and pure fruity nose. Bright and young in its stucture and complexity which has to unfold in the years to come. Minerality shines through this dense and tight wine, but it needs time to strut its stuff. Although very tasty at the moment, the next bottle has to wait for 3 years, at least. 17,5/20

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• 1999 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie Château d'Ampuis 94 Points

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

  This wine shines because of its amazingly harmonious and effortless presentation. Generous and open, pure Northern-Rhone-essence. Not overextracted but beguiling and complete. An absolute joy to drink and, when compared to other Cote Rotie's, good QPR too! Sweet and ripe red fruit basket, acidity and tannines are nice and rough. Total balance. Buy and drink now or in 5 years. 18,5/20

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• 1996 M. Chapoutier Ermitage l'Ermite 96 Points

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage

  This is one of the most profound, intellectual and impressive wines I've had this year. The nose is to die for; on top of the strong foundation of black fruit it has mysterious, spicy incence kind of hints that kept me coming back. On the palate the tannines play the best supportive role that i can imagine. They've softenend in 15 year but still have grip (call it 'al dente'!) and offer direction and perspective. But since these tannines are not obtrusive, they give maximum way to the dazzling complexity of the wine: cassis, currants, prunes, garrigue, grilled meat, nutty tobaccoleaf and used leather. Immense, gorgeous, wow. 19/20 and my WOTN.

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• 1997 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie La Turque 94 Points

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

  Compared to the Mouline 2001, this is a totally different beast. Although the aromatics are more mature, savage and gamey, it pulls off to keep the mouth clean and clear with its pure and bright fruitiness. Deep and interesting herbal/vegetal qualities, caramel, black cherry, prunes, fresh figs, coffee, leather, sous-bois. Open and fresh. Wonderful (and very different than the bottle we sample in March). 18,5/20

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• 2001 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie La Mouline 94 Points

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

  This is exceptional stuff. Very soft and seductive, when compared to the Turque 97 which was served alongside. The freshness in this wine (bright acidity, clean and pure red and black fruit) is appealing and uplifting while its structure is classical and timeless. Very creamy and round without losing focus. Juicy midpalate carries on through the long and effortless finish. Spicy barnyard complexity is present but certainly not overbearing. 18,5/20

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• 2001 Pierre Gaillard Condrieu Jeanne-Elise Vendange Tardive

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Condrieu

  No formal notes or score. I found this to be surprisingly good. Its Viognier-aromatics are not too obvious. In fact, it reminded me more of a mature Riesling Eiswein; good acidity (!), pretty refreshing, excellent clarity of its fruit (citrus and yellow stone-fruits). Nice to meet you, Jeanne-Elise!

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• 2003 Château La Tour Blanche Sauternes

  France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes

  No formal notes or score. As expected, this is very oily and opulent. But focus, definition and delineation are lovely. In fact, although this is a bit too heavy-handed for me, I quite liked it...

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• 2000 Fonseca Porto Vintage

  Portugal, Douro, Porto

  No formal note or score. Of course, still youthful, but its 'babyfat' is starting to melt. Wonderful wine with great purity and a spicy, peppery finish.

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WOTN's as voted for by the group (top 3 each):
1. Janasse VV 2007 (9 votes)
2. Chave Hermitage Blanc 2006 (7 votes)
3. Usseglio Deux Frères 2001 (5 votes)
4. Janasse XXL 2007 (4 votes)
5. Guigal La Mouline 2001 (3 votes)
6. Guigal La Turque 1997 (3 votes)
7. Chapoutier l'Ermite 1996 (2 votes)
8. Guigal d'Ampuis 1999 (2 votes)
9. Bois de Boursan Félix 1998 (1 votes)

Personal WOTN's: Chave's Hermitage Blanc 2006, Janasse VV 2007 and Chapoutier Ermitage l'Ermite 1996
Other wines to look out for: Guigal d'Ampuis and Grange des Peres