2009 Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux Tasting

Sheraton Hotel & Towers, Chicago, Illinois
Tasted Friday, January 27, 2012 - Tuesday, January 31, 2012 by Vino Me with 1,687 views

Introduction

This was the 5th UGC tasting I have been to (the others were 2000, 2001, 2003 and 2005). This was the trade tasting and the event was well organized. Less crowded than previous events. The lines to get wine were non existent or one person at most. I ended up tasting almost 60 wines over 3 hours so palate fatigue was setting in at the end. The wines that I really wanted to rty but could not because they had either run out or were not present were La Gaffeliere, Rauzan Segla, Leoville Poyferre, Pichon Baron and Pichon Lalande.

Overall, the regions which stuck out for me were St. Emilion, St. Julien and Margaux. There were only a few St. Estephe wines but from what was there the quality was high. A few comments on some of the individual regions: The Pessac Leognan wines were marked by asphalt and tar notes.. The Pomerol were probably the most closed. By contrast, The St. Emilion were some of the most open and forward with fine tannins and rather expressive. They showed much better than Pomerol. The St. Julien wines were the most aromatic and together with Margaux showed consistently fine wines which compared very well previous vintages from this decade. The Sauternes, although fine, were less impressive and I thought thought lagged behind both the great 2001 vintage and the 2003.

In terms of overall vintage quality for the reds. I don't think it is a stretch to say that 2000, 2003, 2005 and 2009 are the 4 best vintages. Of those 4, it is my opinion that for Right Bank wines should be ranked as follows (starting with the best): 2005, 2009, 2000, 2003. For Left Bank wines I would rate the vintages as follows: 2000, tie between 2005 and 2009 and then 2003. The 2003 was in 4th place on both sides of the Gironde. 2009 is a classic vintage which will reward those who bought and will be a long lived vintage.

Here are my notes:

Flight 1 - Pessac-Léognan (8 Notes)

  • 2009 Domaine de Chevalier 91 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    (1/27/2012)

    Lead pencil and roasted coffee aromas. Chewy texture with typical asphalt/tar notes. Moderate tannins. 89-92 points.

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  • 2009 Château de Fieuzal 89 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    (1/27/2012)

    55% Merlot and 45% Cabernet Sauvignon. Very aromatic. Notes of black cherry. More approachable and less tannic than many of the Pessac-Leognan wines. Close in quality to the 2000. 89-90 points.

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  • 2009 Château Haut-Bailly 88 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    (1/27/2012)

    60% Cabernet Sauvignon Franc, 37% Merlot and 3% Cabernet Franc. A little funk on the nose. Herbal notes with black fruit and leather. Dry finish. Not as deep as the most other wines at the tasting. About the equal of the 2005 in my opinion. 87-90+ points.

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  • 2009 Château La Louvière 91 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    (1/27/2012)

    This wine is better than the 2003 or 2005 at the same age and has the potential to be as good as the 1990. A little skunky at first but that blew off. Asphalt notes with dark berries and toasted oak. Shorter finish in comparison. 90-92 points.

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  • 2009 Château Larrivet-Haut-Brion 87 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    (1/27/2012)

    This wine was unique in that it had a grapefruit or citrus nuance under the fruit. Rather acidic now. Notes of crushed grape skin and leather. Not as full or as deep as the 2000 which I liked much better. 86-88 points.

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  • 2009 Château Malartic-Lagravière 91 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    (1/27/2012)

    59% Cabernet Sauvignon, 38% Merlot and 3% Petite Verdot. Smokey red currant with cassis and tar. Medium bodied. This is potentially the best of the 6 wines from this estate which I have had. 90-93 points.

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  • 2009 Château Pape Clément 93 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    (1/27/2012)

    50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot and 2% Cabernet Franc. The first wine I tried that really stood out at the tasting. Well balanced with spiced fruit, cocoa and mint notes. Firm tannins. 92-95 points.

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  • 2009 Château Smith Haut Lafitte 94 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    (1/27/2012)

    The 5th UGC wine I've had from this estate and among the best. It was also the best of the Pessac Leognan wines at the tasting in my opinion. Rich texture. Typical asphalt notes with cedar and an herbal quality. Sweeter tannins and a long finish. 93-95+ points.

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Flight 2 - St. Émilion (10 Notes)

  • 2009 Château Beau-Séjour Bécot 92 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru

    (1/27/2012)

    Although I liked this better than the 2000 but I thought both the 2003 and 2005 were superior. A little carmel on the nose. Sweeter fruit notes with black currant, berries and spice. Rounder texture. 91-93 points.

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  • 2009 Château Canon 93 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru

    (1/27/2012)

    75% Merlot and 25% Cabernet Franc. The best young Canon that I have had. Creamy texture. Notes of dark fruit, wet earth, tobacco and earth. Medium to full bodied. 92-94 points.

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  • 2009 Château Canon-la-Gaffelière 95 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru

    (1/27/2012)

    55% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Franc and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. My favorite St. Emilion and potentially the best Canon la Gaffeliere I have ever had. Dark violet color. The tannins seemed smoother than most wines. This had and ethereal and silky feel. Notes of black cherry and dark chocolate. 94-95 points.

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  • 2009 Château Figeac 92 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru

    (1/27/2012)

    Approximately 35% Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon and 30% Merlot. I expected more from this wine despite the fact that I thought it was the equal or perhaps slightly better than the 2005. Burnt tobacco on the nose. Notes of black currant and espresso. This had more backbone than many of the St. Emilion wines but was very tight and rather closed. 91-94 points.

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  • 2009 Clos Fourtet 91 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru

    (1/27/2012)

    A concentrated wine with solid tannins. A minerally character with black pepper and blackberry notes. 90-93 points.

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  • 2009 Château Grand Mayne 91 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru

    (1/27/2012)

    Very consistent wine from my tastings of the 2000, 2003, 2005 and 2009. Deep red. Notes of iron, plum, grape skins and lead pencil. Very firm tannins. 90-92 points.

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  • 2009 Château La Couspaude 92 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru

    (1/27/2012)

    A little funk on the nose at first but it blew off to reveal a very fine wine. Stoney character with jammy red fruit. Firm tannins. 91-93 points.

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  • 2009 Château La Dominique 91 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru

    (1/27/2012)

    I was disappointed in the 2005 but this wine was far superior. Dark purple color. Showing less fruit at present than many other St. Emilion. Creamy vanilla oak and wet earth notes. Solid mid palate. 90-91 points.

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  • 2009 Château Pavie Macquin 93 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru

    (1/27/2012)

    84% Merlot, 14% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Cabernet Franc. A very concentrated and ripe wine. Notes of tar, violets and berries but hiding much of it's fruit. Long finish. Another standout among the St. Emilion wines. Almost as good as the prodigious 2005. 92-95 points.

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  • 2009 Château Troplong Mondot 93 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru

    (1/27/2012)

    90% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Cabernet Franc. Consistently fine. Just as good as the 2003. The 2005 was slighlty better. Underbrush aromas. Dry mouthsmacking texture. Notes of truffles, cocoa powder and raspberry. Firm tannins. 92-94 points.

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Flight 3 - Pomerol (4 Notes)

  • 2009 Château Clinet 92 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol

    (1/27/2012)

    87% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc, 3% Cabernet Sauvignon. More aromatic with floral nuances. Extremely tannic which hid much of the fruit. Roasted coffe and tar notes. Dry finish. Full bodied.91-94+ points.

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  • 2009 Château Gazin Pomerol 89 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol

    (1/27/2012)

    This wine had a lighter feel to it. Woody notes with shitake and plum. Moderate tannins. I thought both the 2003 and 2005 were better. 88-90 points.

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  • 2009 Château La Conseillante 95 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol

    (1/27/2012)

    81% Merlot and 19% Cabernet Franc. Supple feel to this wine. The best Pomerol wine at the tasting and although I have not tried the 2000, this is my favorite Conseillante of the last 10 years. Floral aromas. Rich texture with red currents, leather and blueberry notes. Long finish. Full bodied. 94-96 points.

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  • 2009 Château Petit Village 90 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol

    (1/27/2012)

    75% Merlot, 17% Cabernet Sauvignon and 8% Cabernet Franc. Tried this at the very end of the tasting. Notes of licorice and red currants. Solid tannins standing in front of most of the fruit. This fell between the 2003 and the 2005 (the latter of which was superior). 89-91 points.

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Flight 4 - Margaux (12 Notes)

  • 2009 Château Brane-Cantenac 93 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

    (1/30/2012)

    53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot and 7% Cabernet Franc. This was one of the big surprises at the tasting for me. Better than the 2000, 2003 or 2005 at the same stage (although the 2000 was very close). Creamy texture. Loaded with dark fruit and currants. Well balanced. Firm tannins. 92-94 points.

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  • 2009 Château Cantenac Brown 92 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

    (1/30/2012)

    Another surprise at this tasting. Better than the 2000 or 2003 and equal to the 2005. Notes of coffee, minerals and berries. Solid acidity and tannins. 91-92+ points.

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  • 2009 Château Dauzac 92 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

    (1/30/2012)

    64% Cabernet Sauvignon and 36% Merlot. Good value here. Medium red color. Notes of smoky oak, asphalt and wet stones with a solid core of fruit. Chocolate on the finish. Medium bodied. 90-93 points.

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  • 2009 Château du Tertre 90 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

    (1/30/2012)

    55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc and 8% Petit Verdot. This and the Ferriere were the two Margaux wines that did not live up to expectations. Better only than the 2001 vintage (2000, 2003 and 2005 were better). Notes of cocoa, herbs and shitake mushrooms. Moderate tannins. 89-91 points.

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  • 2009 Château Durfort-Vivens 88 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

    (1/30/2012)

    74% Cabernet Sauvignon, 21% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc. The 2005 was better. Tried toward the end of the evening so my notes were brief but this tasted rather vegetal to me. 87-88 points.

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  • 2009 Château Ferrière 87 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

    (1/30/2012)

    58% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot and 2% Cabernet Franc. Disappointing. Nowhere near the quality of the 2000, 2003 or 2005. Overly acidic with simple and light fruit overpowered by the tannins (even considering it's age). 86-87 points.

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  • 2009 Château Giscours 91 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

    (1/30/2012)

    55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc. Perfume nose. Notes of graphite and a little green pepper. An earthy finish. Medium bodied with solid tannins. 89-92 points.

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  • 2009 Château Kirwan 92 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

    (1/30/2012)

    57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot, a remarkable 13% Petit Verdot and 13% Cabernet Franc. A fine showing. Not as good as the very impressive 2005 though. Blackish red color. Solid acidity. Notes of cassis and crushed grape skin. Tannic. 91-93 points.

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  • 2009 Château Lascombes 95 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

    (1/30/2012)

    48% Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot and 4% Petit Verdot. My favorite wine from Margaux. Far surpasses the 2003 and just as good as the excellent 2005. Dark purple color. Fine acidity. Notes of tar and black fruit. Full bodied with powerful but fine tannins. A big wine. 93-96 points.

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  • 2009 Château Marquis de Terme 87 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

    (1/30/2012)

    60% Cabernet Sauvignon 34% Merlot and 6% Petit Verdot. First time I have had this wine. I know the 2005 got very good reviews but this did not impress. Tart red fruit notes. Medium bodied. 86-89 points.

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  • 2009 Château Prieuré-Lichine 91 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

    (1/30/2012)

    65% Cabernet Sauvignon 30% Merlot and 5% Petit Verdot. I've never tried this wine before although I own the 1963. Smoke, underbrush and tar notes. Rich with a nice finish. 90-92 points.

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  • 2009 Château Rauzan-Gassies 89 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

    (1/30/2012)

    75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot and 2% Petit Verdot. Slightly better than the 2005. Tart red and black fruit with some cherry notes. Rather tannic finish. 88-89 points.

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Flight 5 - St. Julien (9 Notes)

  • 2009 Château Beychevelle 93 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

    (1/31/2012)

    The best young Beychevelle I have ever had and could even be better than the 1989 in the long run. Good structure. Solid red fruit with confit notes. Balanced with moderate tannins. Medium t full bodied. 92-94 points.

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  • 2009 Château Branaire-Ducru 92 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

    (1/31/2012)

    In the last 10 years, only the 2000 was better. A pretty floral nose. Sweet fruit and well structured. Notes of Lead pencil, dark chocolate and blackberry. Vibrant finish and moderate tannins. 91-93 points.

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  • 2009 Château Gloria 90 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

    (1/31/2012)

    61% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc and 6% Petit Verdot. Aromatic nose which outshown what was present on the palate. Notes of brambly red fruit. Lighter body. I slightly preferred the 2000 to this wine. 89-91 points.

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  • 2009 Château Gruaud Larose 93 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

    (1/31/2012)

    65% Cabernet Sauvignon and 35% Merlot. This was one of a trio of St. Julien wines which shined at the tasting. First showing some of the typical G-L old world nose. Notes of pencil lead, plum and licorice. Well balanced. Of the dozen or so G-L wines I've had, only the 2000 was clearly superior. This has the potential to be as good as the 1982, 1989 or 2005. 93-95 points. On the lower end now.

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  • 2009 Château Lagrange (St. Julien) 94 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

    (1/31/2012)

    73% Cabernet Sauvignon and 27% Merlot. Probably the best LaGrange of the decade although the 2003 will be hard to beat. This is an estate I have also enjoyed. Spice aromas fill the glass. Notes fo ripe red fruit and burnt oak. Full bodied and a round texture. Long finish. 94-95 points.

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  • 2009 Château Langoa Barton 89 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

    (1/31/2012)

    60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc. Sweeter nose than many of the St. Julien wines. Lead pencil, berry and black cherry notes. Medium bodied. 88-91 points.

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  • 2009 Château Léoville Barton 95 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

    (1/31/2012)

    77% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot and just a touch of Cabernet Franc thrown in. I only had the 2001 and 2005 at a similar age. This was far better than the 2001 and approached the classic 2005. Dark purple color. A very deep wine with powerful tannins. Notes of vanilla, oak and black fruit which was mostly hidden now. Lipsmackingly dry finish. Full bodied. The best St. Julien wine at the tasting. 94-97 points.

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  • 2009 Château Saint-Pierre 92 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

    (1/31/2012)

    81% Cabernet Sauvignon and 19% Merlot. Where did this wine come from? I've had the 1990 and 2000 and neither were near the quality of the 2009. Tannic backbone. Smooth and more elegant than most of the St. Julien wines at this stage. Rich berry and currant notes. Medium to full bodied. 91-93 points.

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  • 2009 Château Talbot 91 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

    (1/31/2012)

    65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 5% Petite Verdot. At the same young age, only the 2000 was as good in the last 10 years. A little funk on the nose at first. Integrated fruit with red currant notes. Silky tannins. This could be as good as the 1989 in the long run. 90-92 points.

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Flight 6 - Pauillac (5 Notes)

  • 2009 Château Clerc Milon 93 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    (1/31/2012)

    50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 41% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot and 1% Carmenère (the only Bordeaux at the tasting which still used this grape as far as I know). Loved the 2003, disappointed in the 2005, the 2009 is an excellent rebound for this 5th growth estate. Notes of graphite, black fruit and boysenberry with some cedar on the finish. Medium to full bodied. Firm tannins. 92-94 points.

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  • 2009 Château d'Armailhac 90 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    (1/31/2012)

    60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot, 14% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot. About the 12th vintage of this wine I have had going back to 1971. This falls in the middle somewhere in terms of quality. The 1990, 1995 and 2000 were better. An earthy nose. Notes of tobacco and milky red fruit. Medium bodied. Moderate tannins. 89-91 points.

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  • 2009 Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste 91 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    (1/31/2012)

    80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot and 2% Cabernet Franc. I've never had this on release so I did not know what to expect although I've had a few older bottles. Sweet nose. Notes of tobacco and cedar. Not much fruit now. Firm tannins. Doesn't seem that this will approach the excellent 1989 but still and very good wine. 90-91 points.

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  • 2009 Château Haut-Bages Libéral 88 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    (1/31/2012)

    Dark blackish red. Notes of tea, gravel and roasted black cherries. Short on fruit at present because of it's tannic structure. I liked the 2000, 2003 and 2005 all better at the same age. 88-90 points.

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  • 2009 Château Lynch-Bages 95 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    (1/31/2012)

    76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot. This was my favorite St. Julien wine at the tasting. The 2nd best Lynch Bages made in the last 10 years (after the 2000). Pretty floral nose. Round texture. Notes of licorice and plum. Silky tannins. Long finish. 95-96+ points.

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Flight 7 - St. Estèphe (3 Notes)

  • 2009 Château Cos Labory 93 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe

    (1/31/2012)

    Probably the biggest surprise at the UGC tasting. What a leap in quality this wine made from previous years. Creamy texture. Notes of ripe blackberry, cassis and pencil shavings. Vanilla notes on the finish. medium to full bodied. Great value for about $35 now. 92-94 points.

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  • 2009 Château Lafon-Rochet 89 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe

    (1/31/2012)

    A very good effort but not close to the quality of the 2000 vintage. Violet red color. Lead pencil, saddle leather and berry notes. Bulky tannins and a dry finish. 88-91 points.

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  • 2009 Château Ormes de Pez 92 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe

    (1/31/2012)

    54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot. Another estate which stepped up the quality from the 2005 vintage. Floral nose. Graphite, anise and raspberry notes. Round texture. Silky but firm tannins. Another good value. 92-93 points.

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Flight 8 - Other Médoc (2 Notes)

  • 2009 Château Chasse-Spleen 90 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Moulis en Médoc

    (1/30/2012)

    This wine had a pretty nose which showed more than most wines. Notes of licorice and chocolaty fruit. 89-91 points.

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  • 2009 Château Cantemerle 90 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Haut-Médoc

    (1/30/2012)

    A blend of 49% Cabernet Sauvignon, 38% Merlot, 7% Petite Verdot and 6% Cab Franc. 4th time I have tried this wine at a UGC (the 2000, 2003 and 2005 being the others. This was better than the 2003, about the equal of the 2005 and not as good as the 2000. Cigarette tobacco aromas. Lighter to medium bodied. Dark fruit. Moderate tannins. 89-91 points.

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Flight 9 - Barsac & Sauternes (4 Notes)

Closing

VM

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