Sommelier Appreciation Dinner 2020

The Brown Residence
Tasted Sunday, February 9, 2020 by dcwino with 428 views

Introduction

Two years ago, Reginald started a dinner to honor Nadine Elizabeth Brown, the former head sommelier at the Charlie Palmer. Last year it was Andy Myers of Jose Andres’s ThinkFoodGroup. it is becoming an annual event and the honoree was Karl Kuhn of St Anselm. Reginald was incredibly generous in the first two renditions. This time, it was beyond anything that I could have ever imagined.

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Flight 1 - Italian (6 Notes)

There was a lot of great champagnes in the kitchen counter, all in magnum or larger formats. I started with Italian wines served in the porch. The 02 Monfortino once again shined.

  • 2002 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino 98 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

    Incredible concentration, ripe forward red fruit, noticeable but fine tannins. A lot of Monfortino iron. Though incredibly youthful, generous fruit makes it really enjoyable. A long life ahead. I guess Robert knows what he is doing.

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  • 1985 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Villero di Castiglione Falletto 94 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

    Warm, round and soft red cherry fruit, a hint of cedar, still a hint of tannins at the end. A classic Giacosa. The warmth and red fruit remind me the 85 Burgundy a bit. A classic Giacosa style and clearly expression the warm vintage.

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  • 1995 Gaja Barbaresco 90 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

    There is a hint of oxidative note. Soft red fruit, caramel, cedar/oak and still noticeable tannins. A bit hollow in the middle and showing Gaja oak. My least favorite wine of the Italian flight.

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  • 1990 Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia 94 Points

    Italy, Tuscany, Vino da Tavola

    Incredibly youthful example. Concentrated ripe yet cool cassis fruit. Ash and a hint of petrol that I often get in Italian cabs. Still showing noticeable oak/cedar. Lead pencil. This is drinking well but can improve further. Some may find the cedar/oak note bothersome. Close to cool climate Cali cab than Bordeaux.

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  • 1990 Gaja Barolo Sperss 96 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

    Classic Gaja, big and rich, concentrated black fruit, dark spices and tar. Mostly masked tannins due to opulent fruit. Drinking beautifully. Unless one really doesn’t care for Gaja, it is hard not to like this wine.

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  • 1986 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Villero di Castiglione Falletto 91 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

    The fruit expression is slightly overripe, cherry liqueur. Warm and soft. There is a hint of bitterness at the end. If this is correct, the fruit is too ripe.

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Flight 2 - White (9 Notes)

I would love to savour the 90 Raveneau Clos. The PYCM was a crowd pleaser. The 90 Chevalier de Sterimberg was really fascinating.

Flight 3 - Champagne (2 Notes)

I decided to try the Cristals, both were brilliant.

  • 2008 Louis Roederer Champagne Cristal Brut 97 Points

    France, Champagne

    Combining incredibly finesse and energy. Fresh white fruit, granny smith, pear and a hint of lemon curd. Excellent concentration, fine generous mousse, bright acidity and strong mineral. Drinking exceptional well but a long life a head.

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  • 2006 Louis Roederer Champagne Cristal Brut Rosé 97 Points

    France, Champagne

    Perfectly harmonious nose, light red and yellow fruit, also copper, smoke, oyster shell, sweet spices and limestone. Exceptional concentration yet airy and weightless, generous fine mousse, beautiful sweet fruit, bright acidity and strong limestone mineral. Drinking beautifully in a youthful way.

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Flight 4 - Red Burgundy (9 Notes)

The 91 DRC RSV was a textbook example of perfectly mature red Burgundy.

  • 1999 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Richebourg 97 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Richebourg Grand Cru

    Expressive youthful nose displaying intense red fruit with a hint of black, strong stem that has not been fully resolved, more animal than usual, Vosne sprice, rose, Chinese medicine, cedar and crushed rocks. Exceptional concentration, layers upon layers of concentrated red and black fruit, dense yet refined, perfect amount of acidity, strong mineral and a long concentrated red and black fruit driven finish with stem and Chinese medicine at the end. Still needs time.

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  • 1991 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanée St. Vivant 97 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Romanée St. Vivant Grand Cru

    Absolutely gorgeous perfectly mature Burgundy nose that we love, fully developed sous bois, fully mature red fruit that is slightly turning to yellow, essence of raspberry, strawberry water, Chinese medicine, sweet spices, shiitake, light caramel, tree bark and earth. Epitome of elegance yet expressive and harmonious. Drinking perfectly.

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  • 1998 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanée St. Vivant 93 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Romanée St. Vivant Grand Cru

    Really masculine and structured Burgundy. Cherry, strong cedar, white button mushroom, only a hint of sous bois and earth. Very good concentration, a bit angular, still noticeable tannins, good acidity, earthy mineral and a medium to long slightly dry red fruit driven finish. For my palate, it still needs another decade to gain additional tertiary notes.

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  • 1993 Domaine Leroy Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Charmes 94 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru

    Classic Leroy style with beautifully concentrated red fruit and caramel. I get cherry liqueur and strangely Chinese lacquer. Exceptional concentration, concentrated sweet red fruit, rich and dense without being heavy, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, and a long decadent red fruit driven finish. Really delicious yet pretty serious wine, very Leroy signature but not much Chambolle.

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  • 1988 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche 94 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, La Tâche Grand Cru

    Medium expressive youthful nose displaying slightly dry sweet red fruit with a hint of black, strong stem, dill, Vosne spices, a hint of soy and earth. Excellent concentration, slightly coiled red fruit, slightly coarse tannins and a medium to long sweet red fruit driven finish with stem at the end. This is a bit masculine at the moment. Perhaps wait for another five to ten years?

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  • 1993 Domaine Leroy Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Beaux Monts 96 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru

    Expressive nose displaying decadent concentrated red fruit, raspberry, strawberry jam, Vosne spice, caramel, truffle and earth. Excellent concentration, layers upon layers of decadent red fruit, rich and dense, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, and a seamless long decadent red fruit driven finish with Vosne spice and caramel at the end. I love Beaux Monts from Leroy. It used to be the best value Leroy at around $250. Really yummy wine.

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  • 1995 Claude Dugat Griotte-Chambertin 97 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru

    Explosive hedonistic nose displaying concentrated red fruit, very meaty, sous bois, caramel, sautéed cep and earth. Excellent concentration, layers upon layers of concentrated decadent red fruit, rich yet nicely detailed and precise, perfect amount of acidity, earthy mineral and a long concentrated red fruit driven finish with lingering sweetness at the end. This used to be more expensive than La Tache as it was rated like 99 by TWA. The young sommeliers were not familiar with the domaine and seem to love it. Apparently John Gilman rated the wine 72 points. Now that is funny.

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  • 1999 Sylvain Cathiard Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Malconsorts 94 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru

    Clear purple color. Very youthful nose displaying concentrated black fruit, blackberry and black cherry, caramel, tree bark, sweet spices and mineral. Excellent concentration, slightly coiled clean black fruit, silky and polished, medium acidity, strong mineral and a long sweet black fruit driven finish. Another incredibly youthful example. Needs another decade as not much sous bois has developed.

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  • 2001 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Echezeaux 93 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru

    En magnum. Medium expressive nose displaying slightly dry red fruit, sous bois, sautéed mushroom and mineral. Excellent concentration, packed concentrated red fruit, rich and dense, bright acidity, strong mineral, noticeable slightly coarse tannins and a medium to long sweet red fruit driven finish. It lacks the detail that I typically get in M. Gibourg wines.

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Flight 5 - 2011 La Las (3 Notes)

The 11 La Landonne displayed the 11 LBT like greeness. The 11 La Las didn't show well.

  • 2011 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie La Turque 93 Points

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

    Still way too young. Primary blue fruit, beacon fat, ash, liquid smoke and earth. Very good concentration, slightly coiled blue fruit, medium acidity and mineral, and a long concentrated blue fruit driven finish. Still needs a decade or more. Perhaps the weakest vintage?

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  • 2011 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie La Landonne 91 Points

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

    Medium concentration, red and black fruit, coffee, mocha, strong green/pyrazine/LBT and earth. Medium concentration, hollow mid-palate and a medium to short finish. Reminds me some of the 11 red Burgs.

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  • 2011 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie La Mouline 93 Points

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

    I don’t fine any green/pyrazine. Medium expressive nose displaying generous soft red fruit, a hint of olive, black pepper, lavender and mineral. Very good concentration, nicely layered red fruit, silky and polished, medium acidity, good mineral presence and a medium to long warm red fruit driven finish. Still needs time.

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Flight 6 - Afterwards (4 Notes)

Reginald generously pulled a vertical of La Landonne. Unfortunately, I had no more energy to taste. However, I got to try the below four wines.

  • 1998 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie La Landonne 96 Points

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

    Intense nose displaying ripe black fruit with a hint of red, blackberry liqueur, crushed blackberry, black cherry, raspberry concentrate, lavender, dark spices, ash, caramel, cedar and earth. Exceptional concentration, layers upon layers of intense black fruit, rich and unctuous, medium acidity, nicely integrated tannins and a long concentrated black fruit driven finish with lavender at the end. It is drinking beautifully in a youthful way but a long life ahead.

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  • 2003 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Richebourg 93 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Richebourg Grand Cru

    Clearly expressing the 03 ripeness, cherry liqueur, dry cherry, leather, sweet spices and earth. Exceptional concentration, rich and fat, medium acidity, earthy mineral, and a medium to long very ripe and slightly dry red cherry fruit driven finish. It taste more like Rayas than Richebourg.

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  • 2009 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie La Landonne 97 Points

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

    Youthful intense nose displaying concentrated black fruit, a hint of roasted meat, mocha, dark spices, black pepper, lavender and crushed rock. Excellent concentration, layers upon layers of intense black fruit, silky and unctuous, good acidity and strong mineral, and a long intense black fruit driven finish with black pepper and lavender at the end. This really needs time. I imagine this will develop like the 90.

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  • 1998 Noël Verset Cornas 94 Points

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas

    Classic meaty Cornas, tapenade, leather, licorice and earth. Very good concentrated, layers upon layers of black fruit, silky and warm, medium acidity and strong earthy mineral, and a long sweet black fruit driven finish. Drinking beautifully.

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Closing

My sincere gratitude goes to Reginald B. There were forty to fifty guests and no one was thirty at the night's end.

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