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2019 Visit to Cromwell (Central Otago, NZ)
Tasted January 14, 2022 by HowardNZ with 264 views
Introduction
The following are notes from a 2019 trip I have only recently finished typing up.
I began with a visit to Valli Winery …
Flight 1 - Bottle tasting at Valli Winery with Jen Parr, Cromwell (7 notes)
Visiting Valli Winery presents a unique opportunity to taste from a number of the key pinot noir sub-regions – Gibbston Valley, Bannockburn and Bendigo - in Central Otago and Waitaki, North Otago.
The sub-regions are quite different in terms of climate. Working counter-clockwise on the map from Gibbston Valley to Bannockburn then to Bendigo is typically to move from cool to warmer then to warmest, with Waitaki, off to the east, on average the coolest of all regions. Of course, soil types also vary between those regions.
Grant Taylor, a veteran of the Central Otago wine scene, founded the house in 1998. The talented Jen Parr has done most of the winemaking since 2015.
My previous notes of Valli tastings discuss the different vineyards and cuvées.
In terms of her pinots, Jen explained that 2016 was a warmer year, a “classic vintage” with a good harvest. 2017 was a cooler, lower yielding year (about 2.5 tonnes per hectare (ha)) which Jen said “counterintuitively was more concentrated” for the pinots. As a group, I very much liked the cooler 2017 pinot expressions. Jen noted that for 2017 pinots, compared with earlier vintages, she had “dialled back” the new oak to a maximum 33% ie thirds of new, one year and two year old oak.
White
2017 Valli Pinot Gris Gibbston Vineyard
Vines planted in 2000. Aromatic, fruit forward peach, lemon and minerals. In the mouth, good fresh acidity. Almost Riesling-like with stonefruit and minerals. Residual sugar 3 gl/rs.
Red
2017 Valli Pinot Noir Gibbston Vineyard
Vines planted in 2000, 4,040 plants per ha, reasonably close planted. North-facing, mostly Dijon and Pommard clones. After frosts, a 3.4 tonnes per ha harvest. Whole bunch 20% (down from the typical 30%), new oak 32%. Attractive nose, largely red berried, a little stemmy and herbaceous with floral potpourri, thyme and traces of warm earth. On palate, red fruited and a little earthy, with delicious savouriness. Detailed but concentrated. My second favourite of the four District wines, 2/4.
Red
2017 Valli Pinot Noir Bannockburn Vineyard
Three hectares of vines, Dijon and Pommard clones, predominantly 10/5 clone, planted in 2001. What Jen described as “cool site in a warm region”. The hill usually protects from frost. The vineyard is in Bannockburn, but Valli typically finishes picking two weeks later than Felton Road. This vintage, four picks. Yield 3.9 tonnes per ha. Whole bunch 25%, new oak 27%. A fairly red fruited bouquet with dry brushwood and earth. Similar on palate. Earthy and powerful, “the power in the tannins”, said Jen. Spherical and smooth on the palate. “A little silkier than normal”, said Jen. 3/4.
Red
2017 Valli Pinot Noir Bendigo Vineyard
Four hectares of vines planted on the old gold prospecting area Chinaman’s Terrace. An elevated site 400 metres above sea level. Abel clone 100% whole cluster but 35% of the total. New oak 31%. Perfumed and dark fruited. The richest, darkest fruited and largest scale pinot. Earthy with some iron. “The goal at Bendigo is to balance the bigger elements”, Jen noted. Lovely texture, fine grained tannins. “The best Bendigo we’ve made”, said Jen. Very good but one cuvée has to be 4/4.
Red
2017 Valli Pinot Noir Waitaki Vineyard
In the coolest Valli site, 2017 was a very small crop (two tonnes/ha). Valli with two ha of vines, a grower with a little more. Planted up until 2000. Only 10% whole bunch, 33% new oak. A lifted, herby and largely red berried nose. Some strawberry. Savoury, herbal, mineral and saline on palate. A lot going on. In some ways, cool vintage red Burgundy-like. 1/4.
White
2018 Valli Chardonnay Waitaki Vineyard
The cool site meets the warm vintage. A more perfumed nose than typical of peaches and pears, as well as lime and lemon citrus, green apple and chalk. On palate, the typical flinty and limestone-influenced mineral profile. A little riper than normal with more orchard – as opposed to citric fruit and green apple – fruit than is usual for this cuvée.
White
2018 Valli Riesling Waitaki
Another expression of the warmer 2018 vintage. Sugar 14 gl/rs, alcohol 12% ABV, fermented in stainless steel. An attractive bouquet of limes, green apples, peaches and pears. On palate, an attractive style in good balance. Refreshing, direct acidity means the Riesling drinks drier than the residual sugar number suggests. Liked.
Flight 2 - Felton Road 2018 Barrel Tasting with Blair Walter (8 notes)
Blair hosted Andrew, me and Irish Master of Wine Jane Boyce for the tasting.
Blair started the visit at the Bannockburn sub-region wine map, which he helped develop. Bannockburn, above Cromwell in Central Otago, has 325 ha under vine – 75% of it in pinot noir – and is a similar size to, say, Nuits-St.-Georges or Pommard in Burgundy.
We tasted 2018s in barrel and then some older wines from the Felton Road library.
2018 was the hottest summer ever recorded at Felton Road. However, February was cooler than typical, with 144 mls of rain that “freshened up the vintage” and “saved it”, according to Blair. Harvest began at the earliest ever date for Felton Road – 27 February – about three weeks before the 2019 vintage began, for example. For me, 2018 is not a favourite Central Otago vintage. However, as usual, the Felton Road team made the most of the vintage (including picking so early).
The 2018s were racked about 10 days before we tasted them.
Red
2018 Felton Road Pinot Noir Bannockburn
Blair noted that 20 components went into making this cuvée, mainly in fairly neutral oak (mainly 4 – 5 year old barrels, 27% new). Whole cluster 20%. An attractive bouquet of raspberries, red cherries, red plums and touches of black fruit with notes of fennel. In the mouth, a more red fruited expression that I would normally expect from this cuvée. Fine grained tannins. I liked this Bannockburn …
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Red
2018 Felton Road Pinot Noir Block 3
Typically up to 30% stems, here 22%. A gorgeous nose, spicy, floral and dried herbs. Sweet, silky red fruit on entry to the palate. It grows on the mid palate. Raspberries, red cherries, dried herbs and some spice. Detailed and complex. Lovely acids. “Soft and approachable”, noted Blair. Wine of the barrel tasting.
Red
2018 Felton Road Pinot Noir Cornish Point
Whole bunch 23%. A richer bouquet, again red fruited, herby and floral. Fine and silky in the mouth, fleshier but less detailed and interesting than the Block 3. Full bodied, concentrated, with good length. Seemingly lesser acids than some of the other pinots. On the day, it seemed a step behind the “Big 3”.
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Red
2018 Felton Road Pinot Noir Calvert
Whole cluster 25%. A shy, reticent bouquet with understated floral notes. On palate, the power is surprising. Much more black fruited than the Block 3. Impressive structure, scale and length with iron at its core. Needs time. Very promising.
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Red
2018 Felton Road Pinot Noir Block 5
Whole bunch 20%. Also a fairly mute bouquet. More black fruited than the Block 3 with faint violets and black spice notes. Muscular and brooding on palate. All power. Blackberries and black cherries, some dark plums. Thyme nuances. Clean and broad. Fine grained tannins. Complex and savoury. More 2018 vintage character than the Block 3. Still, an excellent Block 5 in prospect.
White
2018 Felton Road Chardonnay Bannockburn
New oak 10%. This sample just racked. A nose of cinnamon and other spices, citrus and rock melon. Pear, nectarines, blanched almonds and some peaches on palate. Decent acidity. Plenty of mid palate stuffing. Good length. Seemingly a riper expression than typical for this cuvée.
White
2018 Felton Road Chardonnay Block 2
No new oak, 25% of one to four year old barrels. Mineral-led bouquet with Meyer lemon, pear, cream and almond croissant. On palate, stony and chalky minerality, lemons and limes. Zippy acidity. Tactile and creamy mouthfeel. Preferred over the Block 6, looking very good.
White
2018 Felton Road Chardonnay Block 6
Yellow spice, citrus and floral notes on bouquet. A palate with the citrus towards grapefruit and tangelos. Relatively rich with quince and yellow apple. Good slaty minerality. Decent acidity. Good length. A broader expression than the Block 2, which I preferred.
Flight 3 - Felton Road library wines and a couple of Cortons (9 notes)
White
2004 Felton Road Chardonnay Barrel Fermented
Note that in these years the (now) “Bannockburn” cuvée was labelled “Barrel Fermented”. Blair noted these wines were typically 15% new oak. At 14.5% ABV the alcohol, and the ripeness and richness, a little more than optimal. Anyway, this wine was oxidised, dominated by Époisses. Effectively, dead.
White
1999 Felton Road Chardonnay Barrel Fermented
The 1999, the first vintage, was also oxidised and caramelised but, looking through this, seemed a better, less rich, wine than the 2004. Alcohol 14% ABV.
White
2003 Felton Road Chardonnay Barrel Fermented
The 2003 in really good shape, held together by its excellent, still vibrant acidity. With time in the glass, toffee and caramelised flavours developed and began to dominate. Tottering on the edge. Alcohol 14% ABV.
Red
2007 Felton Road Pinot Noir Block 5
92 points
Blair noted that 2007 was a cooler vintage but that the 2007 was picked a little riper than would be done today. A bouquet of espresso, brown spices, dried thyme and preserved cherries. On palate, lovely texture and mouthfeel. Underbrush, dried herbs and tilled warm soil. Fully mature, mellow and savoury. Two days later, finishing the bottle, the nose had turned even more tawny and earthy. Richard, tasting the last glass, noted it was “fresh, still good, primary fruit”. To drink soon.
Red
2008 Felton Road Pinot Noir Block 5
93 points
I preferred the 2008 over the 2007. A savoury, earthy, evolved bouquet of dried and fresh dark cherries, garrigue and cured game meats. Drinking beautifully, a fully mature pinot. Earth, dried cherry and berry fruit, dry brush and smoky barbequed game. To drink soon.
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Red
2017 Felton Road Pinot Noir Block 5
Attractive florals, spices and black and red cherries on the nose. On palate, harmonious, balanced and integrated. Opulent but, to me, sufficiently restrained under control. Blair compared the 2017 with the 2012 and 2015 Block 5s – a top pair – saying the 2017 could be even more opulent than the other pair. The tannins need some time to soften (hold until 2023+). Excellent potential.
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Red
2016 Felton Road Pinot Noir Block 3
Another fragrant bouquet. Expressive, lifted, floral and spicy with bright cherry and berry fruit. Very generous fruit on palate, but lighter bodied and seemingly lacking in some structure and tannin. “Lovely juiciness”, said Jane. Returning to the rest of the bottle two days later, it was more red fruited and perfumed, showing raspberries and strawberries. Lovely mouthfeel, well balanced with vibrant acidity. Opening up beautifully. Perhaps a vintage like 2011 now drinking well but not one to hold long term?
Red
2010 Louis Jadot Corton-Pougets Domaine des Héritiers Louis Jadot
94 points
Blair had these two Burgundies open (for 24 hours) that he served to us double blind. Piemontese tar, earth and black fruit on bouquet. Schist, damp black soil and wet iron. On palate, earthy, highly concentrated, very black fruited. I picked both wines as Cortons, but picked nothing more. As well as plenty of matière, structure and mid palate, the Jadot showed quite vibrant, assertive acidity. The wine seemed also a little worked, which should have pointed toward Jadot. Tannic – albeit fine grained tannins – and still quite closed. But overall a very good Corton, drinkable on the day (with this much oxygen a good idea) but really a Corton to drink beginning around 2025.
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Red
2010 Antonin Guyon Corton-Clos du Roy
94 points
Served double blind (opened 24 hour before tasting). More primary, ripe, black fruit, showing less development and less winemaker involvement than the Jadot. Cedar, minerals and a whiff of violets. On palate, more immediate and pretty than the Jadot. Quite elegant and refined. Also, more primary, juicy blackberry, black cherry and Damson plum fruit with rocky minerals, earth and some iron. Fine grained tannins and some tannic grip on the long finish. “Very rich, ripe fruit”, Gareth noted. I saw that, and I touch more alcohol than I would have preferred, but, overall thought this the better 2010 Corton expression. A little more accessible than the Jadot but ideally hold until around 2025. 94+.
Flight 4 - Amisfield Visit, Lake Hayes, Queenstown (3 notes)
We stopped for a quick bottle tasting at Amisfield.
Red
2016 Amisfield Pinot Noir
87 points
New oak 20%. Lighter ruby. A pretty nose with red currant, red cherry and a little raspberry. In the mouth, that attractive berry and cherry fruit. Quite intense acidity. However, quite straightforward, lacking the nuance of the 2015s. It was a young wine but I was unconvinced by this 2016. (87 – 89).
Red
2015 Amisfield Pinot Noir
89 points
New oak 25% - the product of a dry year. Similar lighter colour than the 2016. A more savoury, earthy bouquet with brushwood and some dried herbs. Preferred on palate over the 2016, more warm soil, savoury and dried herb notes. Greater detail and complexity. Successfully staying on the tightrope between underripe and overripe.
Red
2015 Amisfield Pinot Noir RKV Reserve
90 points
New oak 25% - “picked fairly early”, noted the server. Served two samples. The newly opened, popped and poured bottle showed some VA, lifted violets, black cherries and black plums and spicy, vanillin oak. Silky and sleek on palate with concentrated black fruit and fine grained tannins. Plenty of structure, power and length. A pour from a bottle open for the day showed more dried herbs, earth and dry brush but with more prominent sweet fruit and milky oak. The second pour closer to the regular 2015, although darker fruited. Overall impression: 90, drink from now.
Flight 5 - Dinner at Bannockburn Hotel, Bannockburn, near Cromwell (18 notes)
Owners Anna and Andy have done a great job with the renovation of the historic Bannockburn Hotel (established 1862), near Cromwell in Central Otago (https://www.bannockburnhotel.com/).
The food is excellent and they have one of the best wine lists in all New Zealand, strong in both Central Otago and international wines.
Andrew and I dined with Blair, Sarah, Gareth and Mike (then Felton Road), Olivia (then Burn Cottage), Rudi and Suellen (Quartz Reef), Francis (then Carrick) and Brian (Bell Hill).
All wines were served double blind (unless otherwise indicated), typically in pairs. I provided four pairs fully decanted two to four hours before serving, which seemed about right on the night.
A great night was had by all …
White - Sparkling
2015 Jérôme Prévost Champagne La Closerie Extra Brut Les Beguines
94 points
Brian had brought along a couple of interesting Champagnes to compare. Served non-blind. Pinot Meunier 100%. A fine, mineral and citric nose. Some almond croissant autolysis present and “sage and other green herbs”, as Gareth noted. Very cultured, fresh, linear and pure. Mineral. “Cutting austerity”, said Mike with Brian noting, “tactile with mushrooms”. Saline, clean finish. Quite complex. I preferred this style over the more opulent Ulysse Collin.
White - Sparkling
N.V. Ulysse Collin Champagne Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut Les Enfers
93 points
Served non-blind. Chardonnay 100%. A fatter, less mineral style. A bouquet of buttered toast with marmalade, peaches, pears, grapefruit and wet limestone. In the mouth, richer and fuller, seeming lower acids. Mainly orchard fruits – yellow apples, peaches and nectarines – and heavy citrus. Blanched almonds and oat biscuits. Still, sufficient vivid acidity, balancing the full fruit flavours.
White
2009 Albert Boxler Riesling Sommerberg Dudenstein
92 points
Andrew served the Boxler and Fritz Haag blind, side-by-side. Touches of kerosene, rocky minerals, citrus fruits and pears on the bouquet. A brilliant Riesling, balanced, glycerol and rich. Drinking very well.
White
2009 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Großes Gewächs
93 points
Less kerosene on the profound bouquet. Mineral, lemony and floral with apricots and pears. I preferred this “cooler”, more mineral Riesling expression. More power and cut. Seemingly, racier acidity and more persistent minerality to match the residual sugar. Long.
White
2004 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne
94 points
Brian contributed three excellent Chardonnays to the dinner. He served this outstanding Bonneau du Martray double blind on its own. A classic, developed Corton-Charlemagne bouquet of chalky minerals, bonfire smoke, Meyer lemon and touches of spicy, toasty oak. In the mouth, no sign of premox. Appropriately evolved for its age. Beautifully focussed acids. Oak largely integrated. Lovely mouthfeel, tension and minerality. Profound mid palate weight and structure. Still, I would drink another bottle in the next few years.
White
2013 Domaine Henri Boillot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Pucelles
92 points
Brian served this wine double blind with the Bell Hill. A nose of flint, chalk, citrus, stonefruit and spices. A couple of the winemakers noted “a slight hygiene issue”, which may have been related to the cork. Rudy said the wine was “a little more advanced” than the other two white Burgundies but had “beautiful focus”. I thought the acidity bright and vibrant. Gareth commented on the “more winemaking impact” on this wine, compared with the other two. The winemakers were 50/50 in preferences between the Boillot and the Bell Hill. I scored this wine a little lower than at other tastings, perhaps – with hindsight – there was a bottle or cork issue?
White
2011 Bell Hill Chardonnay
94 points
Brian served this wine double blind with the Boillot. Deeper gold than the Boillot. A “later picked year”, Brian noted. Aromas of wet oyster shell, lemons and limes, peaches and nectarines and hints of tropical fruit. On palate, richer and plusher than the Boillot. More apparent spicy, vanillin oak. Overall, an excellent Chardonnay, the elements in good balance.
Red
2007 Domaine de Montille Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Malconsorts
95 points
I served the de Montilles double blind as a pair. Side-by-side an interesting comparison of the regular cuvée and the ’Reserve’. A pretty, pure, floral red cherry and raspberry nose with a stalky whole cluster character. An interesting bouquet. On palate, young and fresh, bright raspberries and red cherries but also with some darker fruit. Delicate with lovely acidity but with some strict, austere ferric minerality at its core. Delicious whole bunch character. No hurry needed to drink this Malconsorts.
Red
2007 Domaine de Montille Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Malconsorts Christiane
96 points
I served the de Montilles double blind as a pair. A similar bouquet but with the volume turned up. Intense florals, mainly red fruit – but darker red fruit – dried herbs and spices (and whole cluster character) but also more musky and funk. In the mouth, more silken, and with greater volume and structure, than the Malconsorts. Richer, fuller and larger scaled, yet the elements – fruit, tannins and acids - also very well aligned. The tannins finer grained. Most tasters preferred the Christiane, but the winemakers who did not like it as much spoke of a “grubby cellar” component or said that the wine was too “worked” from their point of view. I did not see any lack of hygiene or other fault with this wine but did see some funky and savoury elements not present in the Malconsorts that I thought added complexity and nuance to the cuvée. A long, slightly vegetal finish (again, meant as a positive descriptor). Many years ahead of the Christaine. Such a classy Vosne! 96+.
Red
2001 Geantet-Pansiot Charmes-Chambertin
94 points
I served the two 2001 Charmes double blind as a pair and they were about as far different as two expressions from one climat can be. Brian picked the vintage for both wines as 2001. A charming, vibrant nose of polished red and black cherries and berries, violet and rose florals, gentle spices, earth and a touch of Gevrey feral. On palate, juicy and fruit-forward. Generous and fine, the rich fruit coats the palate. More structure than appears on first impression. The acid showing a little lower than perhaps I would have expected. A clean, modern Burgundy, showing just a touch of spicy barrique. Refined tannins. Touches of evolution but not secondary. I am confident it will continue to drink well until 2025+. 94+.
Red
2001 Bernard Dugat-Py Charmes-Chambertin
96 points
I served the two 2001 Charmes double blind as a pair. A much more dark fruited bouquet with damp peaty black soil, almost a Piemontese creosote element and cloves and then a surprising, pure top note of violets and other dark florals. (I asked the winemakers whether they detected any brettanomyces here, but none did). In the mouth, meaty, powerful, with some Gevrey animale. Also, brilliant, sparkling acidity. Suave, very cultured tannins. Huge scale and concentration but all in proportion. The winemakers agreed and – even though none would make a 100% new oak pinot noir or otherwise in this style – almost all preferred it over the excellent Geantet-Pansiot. “There’s a clarity here – a crystalline focus”, said Brian. I would expect the Dugat-Py to drink in this style until at least 2040.
Red
2002 Louis Jadot Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Domaine Louis Jadot
97 points
I served the two 2002 Clos de Bèze double blind as a pair. The last pair were excellent but there was a clear step up in quality with this pair, due, no doubt to the better Grand Cru Gevrey climat. Blair, before the reveal, described them as “amazing wines from a great site and vintage”. The Jadot showed such a beautiful, expressive, powerful nose. Spices, musk, florals and ripe, rich fruit. Drinking beautifully, close to fully open, the oak present but so well integrated. No winemaking imprint interfered, giving the clear impressions of the Clos de Bèze terroir in the outstanding 2002 vintage. Not overdone or over-ripe. Clean and pure. “Elegance, balanced and transparent”, noted Francis. Serious gravitas, structure, body and length. On this drinking plateau until at least 2030, I’d think.
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Red
2002 Domaine Robert Groffier Chambertin-Clos de Bèze
98 points
I served the two 2002 Clos de Bèze double blind as a pair. A gorgeous bouquet. Lifted, floral and musky. So perfumed. In the mouth, a riper-seeming (but not over-ripe), richer, beautiful Clos de Bèze. None of that serious but grumpy Clos de Bèze character I have seen in other examples. Drinking more like an excellent Rousseau Chambertin. “Inky and youthful”, Brian said. “Beautifully fresh”, noted Blair. Rudy queried what he saw as a potentially “New World-styled” Burgundy but I thought it a stunning and profound wine. Wine of the trip and one of my wines of the year. Drink before 2030 (on this showing, I wouldn’t wait).
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Red
2006 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Musigny Cuvée Vieilles Vignes
95 points
To mix it up a bit for the winemakers, I served the de Vogüé double blind side-by-side with the Rinaldi. A serious bouquet of black cherries, blackberries, iron minerality and a faint note of violets, framed by a strong presence of spicy, vanillin barrique. A sweet, open entry to the palate. Bramble and wild blackberries across the mid palate as it started to shut down. Real mid palate weight with power. One of the winemakers suggested a “greenish note”, which I thought of as more fresh and dried herbs. Very long. But ultimately, the de Vogüé was tight and closed, not really ready. To try again after 2025? Scored partly on apparent quality and potential, 95+.
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Red
2011 Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo Tre Tine
95 points
I selected the Rinaldi to serve double blind side-by-side with the de Vogüé because of its reputation for elegance and approachability, even this early. Melted road tar, dark soil, blackberries, dark cherries and red roses on the lovely bouquet. The first impression on palate was the vibrant acidity. The second impression was of sleek, gorgeous cherry and berry fruit. The ultra-fine grained tannins with the seamless, balanced nature of the wine had some winemakers picking the Tre Tine as a pinot noir. However, that was to miss the serious structure and powerful fruit beneath the satiny texture. Elegant but robust and very powerful. Although surprisingly forward and enjoyable on the day, ideally the young Barolo should be cellared, and will improve, until around 2030. 95+.
Red
2009 Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Clos de la Maréchale
92 points
Blair’s wine served double blind. Deep, dark colour. A spicy bouquet of blackberries, blackcurrants and dark cherries, dried herbs, earth and notes of dark florals. On palate, earthy, meaty and savoury. Sous bois and dark fruited, with no hint of fruit sweetness. Some lifted, whole bunch herbal notes. Big boned, serious structure and tannins. Concentrated with iron ore at its core. If possible, hold for 5 – 10+ years. 92+.
Red
2006 Domaine de L'Arlot Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Clos de l'Arlot
91 points
Francis’s wine served double blind. Even darker than the Maréchale. A bouquet of black cherries, wet underbrush, cinnamon, stemmy herbal notes (I believe 50% whole bunch, which, even with this time, was evident) and some nascent dark florals. Dense and chewy on palate. Plenty of matière, unresolved tannins and acids. Dark earth, black fruit, forest floor, slate and iron.
White - Off-dry
1994 Zind-Humbrecht Pinot Gris Rangen de Thann Clos St. Urbain Vendange Tardive
94 points
Andrew’s wine served double blind. Dark colour. A beautiful Pinot Gris drinking a lot younger than 1994. Silky, pure and clean yet viscous and weighty. Apricots, honey, pears, nougat and many other nuances. Not overly sweet with vibrant acidity. Andrew’s wine of the tasting.