Older Champagnes (Domaine Wine Storage - Chicago, IL): Hard to put this into words. The aromas were hauntingly deep with elegant lemon, earth, cream, and some hazelnut. The perfume kept evolving and shifting...one moment the nuttiness was dominant, the next it seemed like you were smelling a rich lemon custard. The palate took the aromas to the next level. Bold, complex and layered this had a little bit of everything. Lovely mousse and cream gave this a dense, regal sense while a more earthy element gave it some rusticity and charm. Above all, this had great acidity and weight. A true super star.
This was a perfect bottle. It had been disgorged in Pol's cellar recently (exact date unknown sadly, but i imagine it was probably done to order) and it was abundantly clear this bottle was in awesome shape. Light gold in colour. The nose was full of girolles, freshly ground coffee and very mineral. I'm sure there was more to write about but I cracked on with tasting it.
The palate had a very elegant manzanilla like feel about it but was again, this was oxidative not oxidised. There was a rich apple character and gently espresso note. The minerality really came through on the finish, which held together beautifully. This wine is still going to age well. I can see another 25 years in this little beauty.
I think champagne shows far greater bottle variation than any other wine when mature but i'm sure this is the best bottle of this particular vintage of Pol i'll ever encounter. Absolutely sensational.
Pebbles Dinner (Chez Bruce, Wandsworth, London): (From magnum) Hardly any fizz, but hardly any sign of oxidation either. Enticing scents of spice, ginger, biscuits on the nose, and then on the palate, serene, poised. Utterly wonderful.
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(Pol Roger) The crown of Champagne of the night didn’t last long, as I liked the magnum of 1959 Pol Roger even a touch more. Its nose was crystal clear with divine yellow fruits. Its palate was fantastic; it was big and smooth, force without mass. It was deliciously buttery without any of the sweet butter qualities and kinkiness of the ’49 Roederer. It was classic in the ‘Fall’ sense of the word, Yankees style (97+M).
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