La Paulée Grand Tasting of 2014 Vintage Burgundy

Pier 60, New York
Tasted Saturday, March 11, 2017 by drwine2001 with 1,008 views

Introduction

Due to a combination of palate saturation, limited interest in some domains/appellations, and sheer inattention (strolled right past the Faiveleys that I meant to taste), the following notes capture perhaps 70% of the wines shown at this great but overwhelming event. More than enough for me to get a sense of the state of the 2014 vintage for both white and red wines.

Flight 1 (84 Notes)

Closing

So, what generalizations can one take away from this highly skewed sample of wines proudly shown by some of the best producers in Burgundy?

For the whites, I think it is an outstanding year from the Côte de Beaune to Chablis (not enough Maconais wines were represented to draw an opinion). The allure lies in the combination of richness and depth without overripeness, and the simultaneous retention of excellent acidity. The volume of the best Grand Crus is outstanding. The reputation of this being a high acid vintage is only relatively true for those who have tasted white Burgundy during the recent global warming years. Compared to vintages such as 2004 and 1996, there is nothing like the tart lemony flavors and raw, malic acidity in these 2014's, and I can't see the wines living as long (oxidation issues aside).

The reds seem like more of a mixed bag. Hardly anywhere was there the amplitude or structure that made me think a wine was a true vin de garde that needed 20 years. Even more backward Grand Crus such as Corton and Clos Vougeot were unusually approachable, with less than punishing acidity and tannin. The best wines were charming, fragrant, and promised pleasure and complexity over the mid-term rather than power or iconic heights. The downside is some wines that are slightly underripe and slight with overly green components.

Some personal favorites this year:
Whites-Paul Pillot Chassagnes (wow!), Lafon Meursaults (not usually to my taste), Boillot Bâtard, and Bouchard Chevalier
Reds-Both Jadot Grand Crus, Drouhin Griotte, Rousseau Chambertin (surprise, surpise. What else is new?)
Overachieving underdogs-Clos de la Roilette Fleurie Cuvée Tardive, Duroché Gevreys

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