Grand Cru Portfolio Tasting
3/9 Grand Cru Portfolio Tasting, NYC
Tasted Wednesday, March 9, 2022 by Gargantua with 295 views
Introduction
Tasting pour, endless barrage of wines--take these notes for what they're worth in that context.
3/9 Grand Cru Portfolio Tasting, NYC
Tasted Wednesday, March 9, 2022 by Gargantua with 295 views
Tasting pour, endless barrage of wines--take these notes for what they're worth in that context.
2019 Moreau-Naudet & Fils Chablis Pargues Vieilles Vignes
France, Burgundy, Chablis
2 ha, 10-15 HL/HA yield from 75 yo vines. 20% aged in fut. Nose is quiet, palate follows with buttery hazelnut and acid. Finish feels a bit bready; wine is showing okay.
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2019 Moreau-Naudet & Fils Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
Primarily 75 yo vines. From parcel 'Grossiere' and 75 yo 'Epilotte, and 'Sechet'. Nose is more pointed than Pargues VV, with fresh corn. Palate is richer, fuller, better.
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2014 Moreau-Naudet & Fils Chablis Grand Cru Valmur
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
Nose is quiet, palate brings that great, buttery Chablis regal entry we love! Feels like home. Very nice!
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2011 Domaine Roulot Meursault
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault
Nose is an awesome asphalt and citrus explosion. Butter, hazelnut. Palate is glorious. Damn these are good.
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2011 Domaine Roulot Meursault 1er Cru Clos des Bouchères
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Nose is tight and quiet, holding back... creeping stone and hazelnut butter.
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2019 Domaine Génot-Boulanger Meursault Les Meix Chavaux
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault
Are those some Roulot Meursault glass residuals, or is this some nobility here? Palate is pretty great! Not the insanely asphalt reductive explosion of Roulot, but an echo of that. This estate is no joke. Great wine.
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2019 Domaine Génot-Boulanger Meursault 1er Cru Bouchères
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
So very pale! Quiet nose. Palate has that wonderfully diluted Meursault attack that finishes on acid and mineral grip. Very nice.
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2019 Domaine Génot-Boulanger Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Vergers
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
Very elegant green apple with rich honey nose and palate, great acid finish. Lovely.
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2019 Domaine Génot-Boulanger Pommard Vieilles Vignes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Pommard
Great sweet sap vs Chambolle's diffuse attack. Meaty cherry. Rust/iron. Good.
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2019 Domaine Génot-Boulanger Chambolle-Musigny
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny
Ashy strawberry bubblegum, some violet/cat pee on nose. Palate has a sweet cedar character, just showing okay? Needed more time with this. The glass residuals began revealing a welcome warm clay aroma.
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2019 Domaine Génot-Boulanger Corton-Les Combes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru
Nose has a pineapple gummi bear/violet/cat pee aroma. Follows on palate, grippy tannic finish. Great wine except for the cat pee outlier.
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2019 Benjamin Leroux Auxey-Duresses Blanc
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Auxey-Duresses
Great grip and acidity--excellent palate attack. Very good, impressive!
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2019 Benjamin Leroux Meursault Les Vireuils
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault
Roulot-y, but with more acid! Fabulous!
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2019 Benjamin Leroux Meursault-Blagny 1er Cru La Pièce-sous-le-Bois
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault-Blagny 1er Cru
Rich, coating, exquisite! Couldn't spit, wow, grilled almonds!
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2019 Benjamin Leroux Blagny 1er Cru La Pièce-sous-le-Bois Rouge
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Blagny 1er Cru
Nose of clean fabric, sweet ashy cherry, palate has a tannic grip--very good!
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2019 Benjamin Leroux Pommard 1er Cru Les Rugiens
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Pommard 1er Cru
Just a little iron in this vineyard. Also, FYI, iron typically gives hard tannins. More finesse in Rugiens. Palate is dilute/unfocused at this point--needs air, as any proper young Pommard should.
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2019 Benjamin Leroux Gevrey-Chambertin
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin
What great finesse! Great, concentrated Gevrey cherry fruit--just lovely.
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2020 Domaine Bachelet-Monnot Chassagne-Montrachet
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet
Nose of grilled nuts, butter, citrus and oak, a tiny bit of asphalt dark earth. Palate enters with a round feel, slightly peanutty, all aromas advertised on the nose follow fast in tow. Not bad!
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2020 Domaine Bachelet-Monnot Puligny-Montrachet
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet
Hard to spit! More of a direct terroir character than Chass Mont. So very drinkable.
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2020 Domaine Bachelet-Monnot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Referts
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
Ha, one of those wines whose nose initially makes you think of weed. Thankfully that's not all that's up for offer--asphalt like dark mineral earth, watery dilute midpalate proper to a Meursault a bit, fresh corn and an acid grippy finish. Couldn't spit--very good!
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2020 Domaine Bachelet-Monnot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatières
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
Lovely--a very similar nose to Referts, palate is different and shows more 'gras'. Great!
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2020 Domaine Bachelet-Monnot Bourgogne
France, Burgundy, Bourgogne
Quiet nose. Palate brings smoke and biting cherry. Brought to mind BBQ a bit (never pair this with BBQ). Grippy.
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2020 Domaine Bachelet-Monnot Maranges 1er Cru La Fussière
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Maranges 1er Cru
Same profile as Bourgogne rouge, biting cherry and BBQ overtones, but better delineation to the strawberry concentrated fruit. Finishes on ashy cherry, nice.
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2019 Domaine Y. Clerget Volnay
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay
Just dazzled at tasting poured from mag. Gorgeous, supple wine. Textured, rich cherry, I want to hoard this wine. WOW.
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2019 Domaine Y. Clerget Volnay 1er Cru Carelle Sous la Chapelle
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
Almost showing as well as the village Volnay at this juncture. Tight, hard to read, served too cold.
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2018 Domaine Y. Clerget Clos Vougeot
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
Nose is a rich cherry liqueur--50% new oak, but it fits the fruit. Palate is tight and tannic as a grand cru should. Some drying formic acid aromas on late finish. Vin de garde, give it 10yrs.
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2020 Domaine du Pélican Chardonnay Arbois Grand Curoulet
France, Jura, Arbois
Muscadet-like nose. Follows on palate. Biting acid finish, almost bilic. Needs time to come together.
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2020 Domaine du Pélican Chardonnay Arbois En Barbi
France, Jura, Arbois
Nose is peanutty, dry. Palate is lean but rich... still a Muscadet-like character here to me.
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2020 Domaine du Pélican Savagnin Ouillé Grand Curoulet
France, Jura, Arbois
More Muscadet-like character on nose. Palate is a sweeter peanutty character. Dry, tight finish.
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2020 Domaine du Pélican Arbois Trois Cepages
France, Jura, Arbois
Nose is a bit sweet horsey, but okay. Palate is tangy and grippy, not bad! As with all wines, needs time to come together.
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2019 Domaine Marquis d'Angerville Volnay 1er Cru Champans
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
One of the wines of the tasting. So very pale. Nose has an almost stinky violet. Palate is stunning, great, sweet asphalt, spice, grip! Clay rises from the nose on the finish. Wow.
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2019 Domaine Marquis d'Angerville Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Ducs
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
Sweet clay on nose. Lovely. Still didn't impress as much as Champans on this day.
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2013 Domaine Marquis d'Angerville Volnay 1er Cru Taillepieds
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
From magnum. Slightly browning robe. Sweet rusty nose. Palate has a surprising grip! Couldn't spit. So biting.
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2019 Simon Bize Bourgogne Blanc Les Champlains
France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Blanc
Nose is cool and quiet, but noble. Palate entry speaks of oak a bit, but a somewhat dilute midpalate leads to some gripping acid, very good for this level! Thoroughly impressed.
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2019 Simon Bize Savigny-lès-Beaune Blanc
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune
Nose is similar to Champlains, but more tidepool mineral notes and a reduction I find pleasant. Palate has rich grilled and buttery nuts, excellent cleansing acid on finish. Lovely.
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2019 Simon Bize Savigny-lès-Beaune Aux Grands Liards
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune
A good deal of reduction to work through here. Noble nose behind that redxn--palate is tight, young, and almost BBQ smoky. Drying asphalt on finish.
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2019 Simon Bize Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru Aux Vergelesses
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru
Nose is a sweet tangy mineral, with smoky cherry, and is that talc (or is that someone standing next to me with laundry aromas)? Palate is a supple affair with a bit of a dill pickle herbaceous entry; this is likely stems. The palate attack feels gentle, a bit dilute but in a pleasant way. Clay and a bit of funk on late retronasal finish. Impressive.
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1995 Simon Bize Savigny-lès-Beaune Aux Grands Liards
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune
Poured from magnum by Chisa Bize. 'Tough vintage, just coming around'. Orange and brown robe. Nose has a rusty reduction and smells older than is my palate's typical fare. Palate is all asphalt, grip and rust. Bell pepper. Reminds me a bit of old Chevillon NSG. I think I prefer wines on the younger side from less tannic grapes.
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2019 Domaine Didier Fornerol Bourgogne Blanc
France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Blanc
Wow, nose is exactly like a flat BdB champagne. Palate follows. Good!
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2019 Domaine Didier Fornerol Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits
France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits
Nose is tight at this point. Palate has a sweet side, followed by a grippy acid. Slightly funky ('assy', as I like to say), but nothing able to push beyond a balanced wine -- just a hint of reductive character at the end of the day.
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2019 Domaine Didier Fornerol Côte de Nuits Villages
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Côte de Nuits Villages
Nose has a Chamonard-like sweet 'assy' funky reduction but is nevertheless good and inviting. Palate is rich but lean, concentrated red fruit and earth in a light package. If you like Cru Beaujolais, you'll be right at home with this.
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2014 Domaine Didier Fornerol Côte de Nuits Villages La Rue des Foins
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Côte de Nuits Villages
Nose has funky veggies and iron. Palate follows with the same. How interesting that so many curious complexities can present themselves in these CdNV terroirs.
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2018 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault 1er Cru Porusots
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Nose has sweet honey and chalk. Palate is a gorgeous browned nuts and citric grip.
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2017 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Volnay 1er Cru Champans
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
Whoa! Nose has straight up cookies and asphalt. Damn. Really want some of this. One of the most impressive wines tasted today, along with 2019 Marquis Champans and 2019 Y Clerget Volnay.
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2018 Quinta do Javali Douro Clos Fonte do Santo Stone Vineyard
Portugal, Douro
A somewhat challenging nose - something fermented akin to glue atop plush glazed blueberry fruit. (“Glueberry?”) The palate is a horse of a different color-impossible to stop drinking. Lean and spicy the fruit feels far less ponderous than a Douro red can be; gotta love these new wave, low alcohol field blends that clock in at 12.5%. It’s difficult to pin down and precisely describe aromatically but proves utterly compelling. This was a sample of leftovers from the Grand Cru portfolio tasting, so this age worthy wine was opened three days ago and this wine is still unwinding. Pretty exciting new address, and I can see how this producer made it to the promised land of the Grand Cru portfolio alongside so many legends. Great things yet to come from Portugal, as they pivot to aiming for lighter reds in hot climates.
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2018 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Morey St. Denis 1er Cru Clos de La Bussière
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Morey St. Denis 1er Cru
Nose is clean but tight--speaks of noble wood and cherry. Palate is too tight to read in a small pour large tasting format but obviously very promising.
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2018 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Cras
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
Nose difficult to differentiate from MSD Buss at this point, but the supply cherry texture comes through even on the nose! Palate has asphalt, violet, and hidden cherry. Very good.
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2019 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Bourgogne
France, Burgundy, Bourgogne
Show stopping gorgeous nose, palate with flesh and dark fruit. Impossible to spit. Grip on finish, but this feels ready.
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2019 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Vosne-Romanée
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée
Nose is almost too rich, ha! The essence of round, supple cherry. So great.
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2019 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Chaignots
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru
Less plush fruit than Vosne. Palate has a plush texture nevertheless, oodles of dark fruit, just so good!
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2011 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Ruchottes-Chambertin
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru
Nose has a funky Manchego and sweet rust character. Robe has a browning maroon color. Palate is decidedly tertiary but nice--very good! Tannins are still there. Finish had a sweet green dimension to it, but it's okay. The Gibourg sister present to pour noted that it took 5 or 6 yrs for the 2011 green 'stamp' to release its grip on the wine.
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2019 Mira do Ó Dão Grande Druida
Portugal, Beiras, Dão
A huge step up from the straight Druida. More clay atop granite here, more power. Pretty nice, from 1 ha vyd.
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2019 VPuro Bairrada Doravante Branco
Portugal, Beiras, Bairrada
20% used oak ferment. Arinto/Bical/Cerceal. Nose has a great saline oceanic clean character. Palate enters a bit peanutty but good-- 100% malo and a long ferment on this wine.
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2019 VPuro Bairrada Alias
Portugal, Beiras, Bairrada
100% Bical, used barrel 1 yr. What a nose! 1 part graham cracker, 1 part Chablis or Clisson. Wow!
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2017 VPuro Bairrada Doravante
Portugal, Beiras, Bairrada
Co-ferment of two grapes, Baga + ?? Assume Bical or Cerceal. Nose is a somewhat generic ashy sweet red, palate surprises--quite nice and clean!
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2018 VPuro Bairrada Alias
Portugal, Beiras, Bairrada
100 year old vineyard. Pure Baga, grippy clear (pineapple) gummi bear fruit and tannins even on nose. Very good.
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2017 VPuro Bairrada Outrora Clássico
Portugal, Beiras, Bairrada
120 year old pure Baga. Nose of ballpoint pen. Follows on palate with a sweetness, rich layer of cherry fruit cleft by tannins.
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2021 Railsback Frères Les Rascasses Rosé
USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Ynez Valley
Classic lean, barenaked rose nose. Palate felt dilute and unfocused, and finished on peanutty aromas that I found unpleasant. May come together, but for me on this day, pass.
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2020 Railsback Frères Syrah Cuvée Spéciale "Syrah- Sans Soufre" Bien Nacido Vineyard Block Z
USA, California, Central Coast
Nose has a sweet pickle character. Too sweet? Even if there's a good deal of acid there.
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2019 Brendan Stater-West Saumur Blanc Les Chapaudaises
France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur
Nose is quiet for now. Palate has bread rind, grippy lemony acid.
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2019 Danjou-Banessy Clos des Escounils
France, Languedoc Roussillon, Roussillon, Côtes du Roussillon
Over 100 year old vines. High altitude. Nose is waxy and dry; lean but fleshy. Follows on palate. Nice!
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2019 Danjou-Banessy La Truffière
France, Languedoc Roussillon, Roussillon, Côtes Catalanes
Nose has some barnyardy/choco-assy notes. Some brett? red fruits in tow after that wave however. Palate is cantaloupe-y, lean, tart, but perhaps forgettable? This wine and the white are wines which will show poorly in this grand tasting setting, I'd think.
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2020 Guillaume Clusel Côteaux du Lyonnais Traboules
France, Rhône, Côteaux du Lyonnais
Gamay. Fruity ashy nose. Palate is ashy on entry, but cleans up. Good.
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2020 Clusel-Roch Rouge Serine
France, Vin de France
Sweet corn on nose, with some funky almost dirty washrag. Follows on palate. Not the biggest fan here, but again, tasting format.
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2019 Clusel-Roch Côte-Rôtie Les Schistes
France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
Nose has lean, biting clean fruit. Grip! Good, burnt earth. Guillaume Clusel says he likes to drink this with 10yrs of age.
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2019 Clusel-Roch Côte-Rôtie La Viallière
France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
Nose has a gentle entry, finishes on its acid. Noble and compact for now--just as it should be. Guillaume Clusel says he likes to drink this with 10yrs of age.
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2019 Clusel-Roch Côte-Rôtie Les Grandes Places
France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
Nose has a cool water atop noble oak character. Palate has some really drying tannins on the finish--this wine is shut down and not yet about fruit. From massale selected 1935 serine vines if I recall correctly. Guillaume Clusel says he likes to drink this with 10yrs of age.
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1995 Clusel-Roch Côte-Rôtie
France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
Robe totally brown and orange at this point. Nose similar to old autumn leaves, so much rust. Palate is cool and round, well-behaved--quite the magic act! No brett here and I can be very picky about that, so confident this magnum is a horse of a different color from MC 2's bottle. Very good.
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2019 J.L. Chave Sélection St. Joseph Offerus
France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, St. Joseph
Big time beef broth nose, wow! Palate is rich and spicy, very good!
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2015 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave St. Joseph
France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, St. Joseph
Nose offers ballpoint pen, flowers, beef broth, and some B Vit ferment aromas. Didn't note the palate, it was late in the tasting. Pretty nice.
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2012 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage
France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
Quiet nose. Palate just as lean and quiet. Didn't have enough time with this.
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2004 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage Blanc
France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
Nose has Manchego, Scotch tape, candied apple. Palate felt a bit watery and boring--lacks impact. Pass. Wheat Chex sweet earthy finish, not enough conviction. Again: tasting format, quick thoughts, not a lot of time here.
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2018 Poderi Colla Barbaresco Roncaglie
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
So very light-bodied; delighted to discover these 2018s! 300 yo estate. Robe is a pale brown. One of ITA's smallest parcels at 13 ha; they own 8ha. Palate is so supple on entry, sneaky tannic finish.
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2019 Cascina Fontana Langhe Nebbiolo
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC
Classic Nebbiolo nose of young, fresh corn. Palate is hard to read (or maybe my palate's shot after 50+ wines) at this point.
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2017 Cascina Fontana Barolo
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Robe is pale and brown. Nose has violet/clear gummi bears. Palate is tough and old school but good.
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2021 Luigi Giordano Langhe Rosso
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC
20% Arneis coferment. Nose is an ashy red. Palate is round and nice.
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2017 Luigi Giordano Barbaresco Montestefano
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
Grippy tannins are palpable even on nose. Asphalt, earth, and flower. Great tannic finish. Very good.
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2016 Michel Gonet Champagne Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Extra Brut Hautes Mottes
France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
Nose is nice, but somehow edges into a somewhat generic palette; feels somehow like an undistinguished BdB with a coarse bead. A rich, bread-y BdB finish, but does this justify its price?
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2018 Domaine de Galouchey Le Vin de Jardin
France, Bordeaux
Compact, slightly sweet fruit on nose. Wine is rather taut, but clay still shows. 5% white grapes inside here too--give the wine lift. SB/Sauv Gris/Muscadelle. Nice!
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2019 Pierre Paillard Rouge Bouzy Les Mignottes
France, Champagne, Coteaux Champenois
2 weeks maceration, then aged in barrels 1yr. Nose is a WOW. Gorgeous tangy tart red fruit, but so full! Flowers. Clay and cherry. 45 yo vines. Younger vines would be okay to use for their youthful fruity exuberance, but if the cuvée had nothing but younger vines, the wine would have no density on palate. That's a hard fought density, apparently, as the density that is here just seems to reach critical mass for this wine to avert feeling too wispy. This wine is from one lens austere, but from another, fleshy. Wow. Love this.
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NV Robert Moncuit Champagne Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut Les Grands Blancs
France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
A rich BdB nose, with a much finer bead than the Gonet Hautes Mottes. Fruit feels aged somehow? Palate is a bit coarse on entry somehow. Nose is expansive and complex--and this is great, as there's something to sift through and discover with this wine. Great experiences with this cuvée.
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2015 Robert Moncuit Champagne Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut Les Chetillons
France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
Nose is somewhat similar to Grands Blancs. Palate is more graham cracker vs Grands Blancs. Nose also has a chalky Manchego and honey dimension to it--feels aged. Nice weight, nice!
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NV Savart Champagne Premier Cru L'Accomplie Extra Brut Vieilles Vignes
France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru
Fascinating nose of kelp and limestone. Very, very compact but elegant. Tropical fruit a touch, maybe yellow plum, attains a note that's almost reminiscent of vanilla Coke (?!), but a dry finish. Pretty haunting.
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