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The Wine Summit

The Post Hotel in Lake Louise

Tasted June 2, 2006 - June 3, 2006 by Hank Gillespie with 1,505 views

Introduction

These are my notes for the wines tasted at The Wine Summit held at The Post Hotel in Lake Louise - June 1st - 4th, 2006.

The event began on Thursday evening with an opening Western Night dinner, and two major tastings on Friday – Two Hands and La Spinetta – split with a lunch in between. There was also a vertical of Joseph Phelps Insignia.

Lorraine arrived at Lake Louise on Thursday afternoon, but I couldn’t get there until late Friday afternoon. She raved about the Thursday event, and had special mention for the 2001 Kracher # 5 Weisriesling Trockenbeerenauslese that Michael Twelftree ordered for their table at the Friday lunch.

Upon arrival I spotted Michael sitting under an umbrella on the deck sipping tea. Perhaps that’s the secret to his prodigious tasting abilities.

An excellent dinner on Friday evening. Chef Hans Sauter and his staff offered up some superb menu items.

Flight 1 (6 notes)

White
1995 Domaine Rémi Jobard Meursault 1er Cru Le Poruzot-Dessus France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Deep yellow in color, suggesting it may border on the edge of some maderization; aromas soft – some honey and peach (MT felt there was some botrytis here); creamy – some canned peach sweet fruit – also displayed the usual chalk/mineral flavors; some oxidation noted, but the wine was lacking in acidity; finished with moderate length, and quite agreeable at the end, with no notes of oxidation. Overall, somewhat disappointing. The wine is but 10 years old and the lack of acidity relegates it to a so-so wine.
Red
1999 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Musigny Cuvée Vieilles Vignes France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Musigny Grand Cru
Bright, clean – deep ruby color; swirling suggested good weight; penetrating cherry fruit on the nose, along with spices and a good blend of oak; lovely texture; fine balance of fruit and oak, together with refreshing acidity; very pure to the core; the cherry fruit flavors seem to recharge in layers, leading to a long, lingering finish. Remarkable ! I was taken with how easy and attractive this wine is – much more accessible that I had imagined. This wine will keep well and should continue to evolve over the next 5 years.
Red
1993 Soldera (Az. Agr. Case Basse) Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino
Very deep color – almost a brooding presence; this wine needed some time to come forth – left it for an hour in the glass; aromas showed lots of blackberry fruit, with hints of anise; ample fruit on the palate – initially reflecting some ripe tannins, but they settled back as the wine sat in the glass; powerful thrust of fruit, with a licorice edge – some hazelnut – blackberries; excellent structure with the frame holding the fruit; superb acidity in the background; finished beautifully. This is quite an outstanding wine with a long future. Another 4 or 5 years will add further complexity.
Red
1995 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Grands-Echezeaux France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Grands-Echezeaux Grand Cru
Appearance a bit fuzzy and showing some garnet on the rim; a bit funky on first smelling, and this wine needed considerable swirling in the glass to bring forth more pleasing aromas of spice and hints of cedar; velvety texture – quite full on the palate; warm and beefy along with some baked fruit – suggested boiled cherries; pretty good balance, but there was too much oak coming through; finished with good length. Couldn’t spot any defects here, but the wine was no match for the Musigny. It seemed to lack some purity on the nose and on the palate. The acidity, which was evident, wasn’t the kind of refreshing and vigorous character exhibited in the Musigny. For me, this bottle was somewhat disappointing, as I had expected much more.
Red - Fortified
1977 Fonseca Porto Vintage Portugal, Douro, Porto
Amber ruby color; penetrating aromas; good split between the spirit and the fruit; good balance – weighty – integrated sweetness. An OK Port, but I’m not particularly enamoured with finishing a meal that way.
White - Off-dry
2000 Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
Attractive light straw in color – clear and clean in the glass; typical honeyed Riesling aromas with floral overtones; fresh – good thrust of acidity; sweet fruit but offset with this refreshing acidity; finishes with the desire to have another sip. Excellent !

Flight 2 - Veuve Clicquot La Grande Dame Tasting (0 notes)

Saturday morning commenced with the Veuve Clicquot La Grande Dame tasting . This was well presented and comprised vintages 1996, 1995, 1989, 1988, 1985, 1979 together with 1999 and 1999 Rich. The differences between the ‘99’s is the residual sugar – 9g/L for the ’99 and 28g/L for the ’99 Rich.

This was an exceptional opportunity for those who enjoy fine Champagnes. I have particular trouble with all of the acidity that early in the day. I could tell which one was Michael Twelftree’s favorite. It was the 1988, evident from his draining both his own and my glass.

Lorraine benefitted from the tasting, even though she took a timeout for the session. There were a couple of technical questions from the moderator, who had two beautiful Veuve Clicquot silk scarves as prizes for the correct answers. My answer was the only correct one for the first question, and Lorraine is now the proud owner of the scarf.

Flight 3 - Chateau Margaux Vertical Tasting (9 notes)

Next up that morning was the Chateau Margaux tasting, conducted by winemaker Paul Pontallier. This tasting comprised one white and 8 reds.

Paul is a charming fellow and his command of English is exceptional. He added a great dimension to the tasting. I particularly enjoyed his comment that:
"The making of great wine is a serrious endeavor, but great wine should not be taken too seriously. It is meant to be drunk, shared and enjoyed. It's made for those who do so."
He also gave credit to those who had come before, noting that it’s a privilege to work this great natural site – the climate and solids – which is the product of a long history of hard work by those who toiled here over the past 400 years. During the past 25 years Bordeaux has been blessed with an unprecedented string of very fine vintages.

The red wines were opened and double decanted 4 hours prior to the tasting under Paul's supervision.

White
2004 Pavillon Blanc du Château Margaux France, Bordeaux
100% Sauvignon Blanc - 14.5% alcohol – 1/3 new oak, 1/3 1 yr. Barrels and 1/3 2 yr. Barrels – yield between 25-30 Hl/Ha.
Light greeny-pale yellow color; fresh floral and some pear aromas; deep, mealy flavors – spicy oak – round and flavorful; sweet edged flavor, likely from the alcohol; quite a lengthy finish; should develop more harmony with bottle age. I felt this wine had considerable promise. MT of the view that it did little for him. White Bordeaux tend to take a number of years before they really begin to shine. This one has the fruit and acidity to last and will be much more attractive in 5 or 6 years.
Red
2003 Pavillon Rouge du Château Margaux France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux
Deep purple ruby in color with a distinct pink rim; aromas a good mix of oak, fruit – mainly black currant; black currant flavors – a roasted edge; soft tannins – good acidity; a velvety texture – good full body.
Red
2004 Pavillon Rouge du Château Margaux France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux
A bit lighter in color than the 2003 – still dark ruby – full to the rim; more evolved nose – spices, more distinctive berry aromas; more elegantly styled than the previous wine; clean on the palate; nice acidity ; flavors primarily black currant; finished quite well.
Red
2001 Château Margaux France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux
Dark ruby color; full penetrating black currant and spicy oak aromas; full bodied – velvety oak, with deep fruit – a peppery background; finish is quite long – good balance and acidity
Red
1999 Château Margaux France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux
Much darker than the 2001 – dense – black ruby; more scented than the 2001 – floral and some fresh berries; round – very full – oak more pronounced that the previous wine; good level of acidity; coats the palate – plenty of black currant and oak flavors; long finish where the fruit endures.
Red
1996 Château Margaux France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux
Deep, dark black/ruby color; dense and full on swirling; much more complexity in the nose – full, ripe cassis and spices; elegant styling; very harmonious – exquisite balance; cassis flavors mixed with spicy oak which carry through the long finish. Some strong potential here.
Red
1989 Château Margaux France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux
More mature color garnet ruby; developing some bouquet – spices, cedar and a medley of berry fruits; round and maybe just a bit lighter on the palate – tannins subsiding and showing a good concentration of cassis – some pleasing spice notes; the oak is just a bit out of balance, which mars the harmony a touch; extremely long finish – fruit and oak carry on – just a slight bitter note at the end.
Red
1986 Château Margaux France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux
Tasted from magnum. Extremely dark ruby in color; ripe black plum and dark berry fruit in the aromas, which were full and penetrating – focused and danced with a little more time in the glass – I thought this to be the most pleasing combination of fruits and spices of any of the other wines; harmonious in its most seamless fashion – frit, oak, acidity and tannins hung on the solid frame, each a part of the whole; excellent concentration and extract; massive fruit showing in the flavors – plenty to last for the long pull – black currants mainly – sweet edged; very long and satisfying on the finish. Much more to come here, but I was pleasantly surprised at how easily this wine drinks.
Red
1983 Château Margaux France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux
Tasted from magnum. Interesting evolution of color – mature, but less so than the 1989 – more mahogany color – good density evident on swirling; magnificent bouquet – intoxicating medley of spice and cedar – cassis and a pungent scent of cigar box; terrific balance and harmony – cassis is the dominant flavor, but there are nuances of different spices; oak is fully integrated; very long, satisfying finish, where all of the elements continue. I could taste this one seemingly for several minutes. An elegant, stylish Margaux in all of the classical notions.

Flight 4 - Lunch (1 note)

The de Capo was ordered with lunch following the Margaux tasting. Michael was insistent that I try the wine, so we ordered up a bottle. The wine may have benefited from additional airing - it was just opened and decanted.

Red
2000 Domaine du Pégau Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée da Capo France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Good color – bright, rich ruby – showing good intensity; flowing aromas – mostly Grenache fruit; round – some elegance on the palate; surprisingly soft, but with great tannin/acid structure; nuts, spice and dark berries; a lasting and pleasing finish. I was taken with how approachable this wine is at this stage. It had just been opened and decanted.

Flight 5 (0 notes)

Following lunch Michael invited me to join him in the Post’s cellars where he would be opening the 2004 Two Hands Ares Shiraz that would be included in the dinner wines that evening. Great stuff and looking forward to partnering this wine at dinner with some Alberta lamb.

Flight 6 - Tasting of Domaine Serene Evenstad Reserve Pinot Noir (2 notes)

This tasting was conducted by winemaker Tony Rynders, who has a strong communications bent. He did a fine job of captivating the attention of those in attendance, and kept the dialogue from becoming too technical.

The vines on Serene’s several vineyard sites are not irrigated. The approach to winemaking is to employ less extraction from the grapes. They employ a large sorting table to maintain a high standard of selection – grapes are destemmed – some early cold soaking – no fining – no filtering.

This vertical featured the Evenstad Reserve from vintages 2003, 2002, 2001, 2000, 1996, 1994, 1993 and 1992.

Tony felt that the 2000 vintage had more potential to become one of their better wines. He may be right, but hard for me to tell, since this was my first experience with a Domaine Serene vertical and one that included a couple of older wines.

I felt that the 1993 and the 1992 offered the best expression of fruit among these wines.

Red
1992 Domaine Serene Pinot Noir Evenstad Reserve USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley
Medium depth of color – more clarity; less complexity in the bouquet than showed in the 1993, but pleasing and with reasonably good depth; very fine balance – refreshing acidity – tannins resolved – good cherry flavors and a lasting finish.
Red
1993 Domaine Serene Pinot Noir Evenstad Reserve USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley
Pale colour – even a bit fuzzy looking; a wam. Mature Burgunbdian character in the nose – a potpourri of dried petals; more balance and harmony that the previous wines; nice cherry fruit – good acidity – tannins beginning to resolve; leading to a moderate finish.

Flight 7 - Mischief and Mayhem (extracurricular) (2 notes)

As if we weren’t getting into enough wines already, I was asked to join a small group in the Post Hotel’s Library to taste some of Michael’s Burgundy adventure wines – the lineup from Mischief and Mayhem.

White
2004 Mischief and Mayhem Meursault France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault
Pale straw in colour; characteristic limestone/mineral nose, augmented with fresh peach; pleasing acidity – refreshing; lemony flavours; good body and texture – closes well, with an attractive finish.
White
2004 Mischief and Mayhem Puligny-Montrachet France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet
Ever so slightly darker than the previous wine – pale straw with hints of green; more penetrating aromas – some floral notes, but primarily citrus; fuyller, fatter and rounder – with more muscle; very good acidity; tree fruit flavours – pear and a bit of apricot – some peach stone; longer finish. I really liked this wine.

Flight 8 (3 notes)

Both the village wines used 25% new oak barrels. The following 1er Cru’s each used 50% new oak barrels.

White
2004 Mischief and Mayhem Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru La Garenne France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
Pale straw – again a little more depth than the last wine – some hints of green; full measure of aromas – tree fruits and nutmeg spice; on the palate a slightly higher alcohol in evidence – orange citrus in the flavours, as opposed to the lemony character expressed in the previous wines; a very long, pleasing finish.
White
2004 Mischief and Mayhem Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Referts France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
Green tinged pale straw colour; a bit flinty edged on the nose, but good extension of tree fruits and citrus in the nose; lemony acidity; lemons, grapefruit and some pineapple, to go along with the fresh pear and slight edge of apricot; extremely long finish. Really, quite a fine Puligny. I could handle this on a regular basis, but it will improve over the next several years.
White
2004 Mischief and Mayhem Meursault 1er Cru Les Genevrières France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Pale straw yellow, with green highlights; more upfront fruit on the nose than the village Meursault; round and soft texture on the palate; mix of lemon and sour orange in the flavours; very good mineral content; finishes just slightly shorter than the Les Referts, but a complete package here. Very, very good.

Flight 9 (1 note)

Mischief and Mayhem has one red in the group.

Red
2004 Mischief and Mayhem Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Cazetiers France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Medium purple ruby in colour; fresh berries on the nose – some raspberry and red currant; medium weight, with attractive berry fruit – some pleasing sour cherry showing through; tannins and acids in check – balanced nicely; finishes just moderately long. I’d have preferred more stuffing, but that could come with some bottle age. This is an extremely young wine, but no evidence of any defects. I would expect the aromatics to evolve quite well in a couple of years.

Flight 10 (1 note)

Since I missed out on the Two Hands tasting the day previously, Michael wanted me to taste the Aphrodite. It’s 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from extremely low yielding vines – just ½ T/acre. Alcohol is 15.5%, but there’s absolutely no sense of that in the wine.

Red
2004 Two Hands Cabernet Sauvignon Aphrodite Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Barossa Valley
This had initially been opened a day earlier for the tasting – remainder of this bottle recorked and cellared – decanted prior to my tasting it; black/purple in colour – fully opaque; extremely powerful aromas – quite intoxicating – of deep black currants; lush on the palate; incredible depth of fruit – highly concentrated – massive black currant/cassis; fruit continued to come in waves, and every wave seemed to show a slight tannin level – each time being overwhelmed by the rush of fruit; fine structure, and it’s needed to support this level of fruit; long finish that I could still feel and taste minutes later.

Flight 11 (0 notes)

And still a couple of hours left to relax before dinner.

And finally the grand finale: Saturday’s Black Tie Windup Dinner, Dance and Silent Auction

Chef Hans Sauter and his staff outdid themselves for this truly marvelous dinner! Hors d’Oeuvres were served in the kitchen – an exotic sampling of a variety of appetizers.

Flight 12 - First Course (1 note)

Carpaccio of Deep Sea Scallops and Tartar of Atlantic Balik Salmon with Paprika Oil

White - Sparkling
1995 Krug Champagne Vintage Brut France, Champagne
A superb choice to accompany this finely prepared and presented course.

Beautiful gold color; delicate and firm bubbles; wonderful aromas – floral and fruit driven; fresh and crisp entry – very round and elegant, with a satisfying long finish.

Flight 13 - Second Course (1 note)

Ragout of Fresh Lobster with fresh Spring morels and asparagus on Port wine sauce.

I know Michael felt this wine didn’t measure up as a partnership with the course, but I feel otherwise. I liked the choice, especially with the flavours of the morels and asparagus in the wine sauce. The rich lobster needed something to balance against and this was handled very well.

Red
2002 Domaine Serene Pinot Noir Mark Bradford USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley
I felt this wine was a cut above those Evenstad Reserves we tasted earlier in the day. Bright ruby colour – more depth than the Reserves; aromas deep and full, with the cherry fruit dominating; round and ripe on the palate – more concentration of fruit than the wines at the tasting; nice full body; quite well balanced, with the oak integrated; lasting finish where the fruit persisted.

Flight 14 - Third Course (1 note)

Breast of Squab and Fois Gras in Brick Leaves on a bed of Wild Spring Leek with Squab Sherry Jus. Mmmmm! What a dish ! Imagination and presentation combined in a delicious blend.

Red
2001 La Spinetta (Rivetti) Barbaresco Vürsù Vigneto Valeirano Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
No question this wine is a very good one, but I believe it was just too young to partner this dish. Even with air time the wine seemed to me to be a bit tight. No problem for me – I continued to enjoy the squab and fois gras dish.

Flight 15 - Fourth Course (1 note)

Alberta Lamb Loin in Rice Crepe with lamb jus and a hint of mint. Another unique presentation and extremely flavourful dish.

Red
2004 Two Hands Shiraz Ares Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Barossa Valley
In spite of its youth this wine’s fruit was a worthy partner with the lamb.

Extremely dark black purple in colour – fully opaque; on swirling it was evident that there’s considerable body; the aromas push well through the nostrils to the back of one’s throat; wonderful texture and fullness on the palate; there’s such a huge level of fruit which shines through the structure, coming forth in layers that don’t seem to want to quit; blackberry flavours – sweet edged - harmonize with the other elements to coat the palate with delights; the finish didn’t want to stop, either – all about the concentration of fruit.

This wine was opened at mid-day and the serving came about 9 o’clock, yet this could have remained open even longer. It was a wonderful wine to go with the flavours of the lamb, but it will become even better in another 5 or 6 years, with a long future for anyone that has the discipline to refrain from opening it.

Flight 16 - Fifth Course (1 note)

Grilled Filet of Alberta Bison with Cabernet Sauvignon sauce; pommes anna and fresh market vegetables.

Red
1997 Joseph Phelps Cabernet Sauvignon Backus Vineyard USA, California, Napa Valley, Oakville
Served from magnum. Extremely dark ruby colour – good depth, and beginning to shed its purple accents; mix of cassis and oak, with spice nuances in the aromas; elegant styling for such a full bodied wine; balance and power here – with exceptional black currant and black raspberry flavours; finely textured for such a big wine; finish is long and satisfying. Great choice for the bison dish.

Flight 17 - Sixth Course (1 note)

Cheese presentation – Asiago, Beaufort, Comte and Parrano, with dried Apricot and Pecan Baguette

Red
1995 Château Margaux France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux
Dark ruby colour – great depth; aromas filled with black currant and red currant fruit, sweeping through the nostrils along with spice and some cedar; full and rich on the palate, but nothing aggressive here – the parts just seemed in perfect harmony; great structure, acidity and soft tannins lying beneath the fruit; a touch of coffee and hazelnut mixed with the black currant fruit; lengthy finish that continued to cry out for another sip.

A great match with the cheese dish, where we were able to concentrate on the versatility of this wine to rise up with each of the different cheeses.

Flight 18 (1 note)

We weren't done. However, as Michael ordered up two half bottles of 2001 Chateau Rieussec for our table.

White - Sweet/Dessert
2001 Château Rieussec France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
Beautiful golden colour; aromas express the botrytis around the spices and fruit; rich and wonderfully textured; botrytis and acidity sit in the background as the sweet apricot and exotic fruits tantalize the taste buds; finish lingers for a very long time.

Closing

This probably should have been in place of dessert, but a dessert course was offered in the form off bitter sweet Callebaut Chocolate and raspberry opera.

I just stayed with the Rieussec.

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