New York City, NY
Tasted Monday, October 19, 2015 - Tuesday, October 27, 2015 by La Cave d'Argent with 5,297 views
After a fantastic experience in Manhattan last year (https://www.cellartracker.com/event.asp?iEvent=26196&searchId=5BC83277&UISource=list), we decided to reprise the trip at the same time this year. While the main focus of the journey was to again attend the Wine Spectator New York Wine Experience, we made sure that we allotted enough time before and after the event to include New York's wonderful restaurants and Broadway plays.
Having attended the New York Wine Experience last year, we realized that staying anywhere other than the Marriott Marquis (http://www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/nycmq-new-york-marriott-marquis) is simply a non-option. While there certainly are more luxurious hotels in this grand city, the Marriott Marquis is where the event is held, and the convenience overwhelms any other factor. Our room this year overlooked Times Square, was comfortable and added a great sense of energy based upon its views (as seen below).
Long before embarking our trip, we had made reservations to dine on our first evening at Aledea (31 West 17th Street; http://www.aldearestaurant.com/), the Michelin-starred restaurant of George Mendes. We had met Chef Mendes at the Aspen Food and Wine Classic in June, where he was slicing jamón ibérico de bellota (https://www.cellartracker.com/event.asp?iEvent=28684&searchId=5BC83277&UISource=list). Located in Manhattan's Flatiron neighborhood, it is an intimate, long and narrow, two-floored, Iberian-inspired restaurant with a modern flair. We requested and were granted a table where we could view the active kitchen.
We elected to proceed with the four-course, prix fixe menu, which presented five different options for each course. We were able to try two options from each course by virtue of allowing each other to "sample" our dishes. After starting with a cocktail, we requested that Aldea's sommelier, Doreen Winkler (whom we had also met in Aspen) select a Portuguese red wine. She decanted the 2012 Herdade dos Grous Vinho Regional Alentejano Reserva, which developed nicely over the ensuing two hours. It was a particularly good match with the second and third courses.
Prior to the first course, we were presented with an amuse-bouche of white miso financiers and frozen gin & tonic bites. Both were delicious, with the latter being particularly innovative.
For the first course, I ordered charred spanish mackerel with sungold tomato, yuzu kosho and dill. While my wife is not a fan of the inherent oiliness of mackerel, I have always loved the fish (particularly raw as sashimi) and found this dish to be as tasty as it was visually appealing.
My wife chose the Bacalhau à Brás, beautifully executed with Alderfer farms egg and salt cod custard, crispy potatoes and black olives. I must admit that her dish was the star of the first course, even more delectable than my mackerel. She did, however, have an unfair advantage...the addition of "first of the season" white truflles (at a substantial upcharge). The first photo below shows the dish as served, while the second shows the velvety custard lurking beneath the top layer.
For course number two, I chose the smoked oysters and razor clams, served with lentil sprouts, quinoa and vinho verde sauce. As is the case with everything that George Mendes creates, it was stunning to the eye as well as to the palate.
My wife ordered the grilled octopus, served with salvitxada, scallion cooked over embers and molho verde. This was perhaps the most colorful dish of the evening. The octopus was perfectly cooked and the plate's flavors provided an explosive gustatory experience.
The third course included two creative delights, including my selection of ibérico pork collar with yu choy greens, pine nuts and glazed turnips.
My better half ordered the "fat rice," with duck sausage, morcela, manila clams and squid. This was a playful dish which was packed with an interesting combination of flavors.
For dessert, I elected to go with the matcha cake, with sesame coco rocks, dulcey chantilly and hibiscus. The flavors and textures played very well together.
My wife ordered the caramelized bananas, with banana cake, caramelized peanuts and brown butter ice cream. This was an absolute knockout!
While at Aldea, we were informed that Chef Mendes was tending the house at his newest project, Lupulo (835 6th Avenue; http://www.lupulonyc.com). A less formal Portuguese spot for seafood, wood-fired dishes & craft beer in a space with a large central bar, it is located a stone's throw from Aldea on 6th Avenue. On our way back to the hotel, we dropped in to check out the scene and enjoy a craft brew. Despite it being a Monday night, the place was packed and loaded with energy. While there were several craft beer selections on tap, the depth and breadth would not rival any average brew house in San Diego (which is arguably the craft brewing capital of the world). We did not order any food, but the diners seemed to be greatly enjoying the creations of Chef Mendes.
Jet lagged and tired after a very early morning flight from San Diego to New York, we slept rather late into the morning on our second day. Refreshed but hungry and craving a hearty morning meal, we ventured to a restaurant especially known for its breakfast. Norma’s at the Le Parker Meridian (119 West 56th Street; http://www.parkermeridien.com/eat/normas) is all that it is cracked up to be. Stylish and (yes) expensive, it is worth every penny! While the menu is quite eclectic, it also has the “standard” breakfast items that I personally was craving. My custom-ordered egg white omelet with ham, bell peppers (yellow, orange, red and green) and red onions was massive and superb, served with toasted seven-grain bread and the cottage cheese that I had requested as a substitute for potatoes. My wife ordered huevos rancheros, which was visually impressive and given high praise from a gal who lives in a town where the dish is essentially indigenous. The complimentary strawberry and watermelon smoothies were great, but the French press coffee was just what the doctor ordered!
Broadway plays are an integral part of any trip to New York. We started this year’s shows with A Gentleman’s Guide to Love and Murder (http://www.agentlemansguidebroadway.com). Staged at the Walter Kerr theatre, it was a tremendous production, well-worthy of its 2014 Tony Award for best musical.
After the play, we strolled to Sardi’s (234 West 44th Street; http://www.sardis.com), a New York stalwart. A true throwback, with red booths and caricatures of celebrities lining the walls, it was a fun place to dine. It had a similar vibe to some of the older restaurant haunts in Palm Springs.
I began with French onion soup, which was well-done, albeit not distinctive.
My wife started with a salad of roasted marinated red beets, upland cress, orange, goat cheese and red beet vinaigrette. While visually appealing, it was lacking in flavor and fairly pedestrian.
For my main course, I made a good choice. The skewer of marinated chicken breast served with grilled eggplant, tomato, zucchini, vidalia onions and salsa cruda was delicious. The chicken was plentiful, perfectly moist and the accompaniments were equally tasty.
My wife’s choice of sautéed sea scallops with vegetable risotto, micro greens and shimp sauce was somewhat less impressive than my entrée, but there was no denying that the scallops were fresh and beautifully cooked.
Our choice of wine was the 2010 Clos du Pavillon, which was minimally marked up relative to retail. It paired well with both entrées.
We recall that last year, despite re-setting our watches, we never really did adjust to "eastern time." Somehow, our biological clocks will be forever linked to the Golden State, so we decided not to fight it. Hungry in the late New York hours, we ordered room service hummus (with grilled naan bread, carrots and celery) and sea salt potato chips (with parmesan basil dip). Purchased during the day at a local wine shop on Seventh Avenue, Carnegie Spirits, Ltd., the 2012 Emblem Cabernet Sauvignon was better than anything that could be had on the room service menu at the hotel. That said, Carnegie would otherwise be a wine shop to be avoided, as their prices are grossly inflated in relation to any other reasonable wine retailer.
After a light breakfast at the hotel, we strolled Times Square and Rockefeller Center on our way to the Museum of Modern Art, also known as "MoMA" (11 West 53rd Street; http://www.moma.org). For those who have never toured this magnificent museum, it should be on your list of things to see when you visit New York! Those who have already toured MoMA know that hours and hours could be spent without even scratching the surface of all there is to see. Picasso, Matisse, Van Gogh, Dali, Warhol, Chagall, Monet...the list goes on and on. I particularly enjoyed Van Gogh's "Starry Night," as well as the sculptures of Matisse and Picasso, with the latter artist's work augmented by an extensive visiting display.
Don't tell me that I look like this Matisse sculpture...I have arms! ;-)
Pre-booked well in advance of our trip, we greatly looked forward to our dining experience at Taboon (773 10th Avenue; http://www.taboononline.com). Describing its cuisine as "Middleterranean," (inspired by the vibrant spices and flavors of the Middle East and the Mediterranean), it is a quaint restaurant located on a corner in the "Hell's Kitchen" area of Manhattan. Our high expectations were greatly exceeded! This cuisine is authentic and fresh, with everything made in-house.
Although Taboon has an eclectic wine list which includes some interesting offerings from Israel, Lebanon and Greece, we elected to bring our own bottle of Burgundy (2009 Domaine Roy Freres Auxey-Duresses 1er Cru Le Val) which was purchased the same day at a relatively new wine shop on 46th Street, Wine Wisdom (http://wine-wisdom.com). This moderate-sized, physically attractive shop is a bit overpriced but it appears that they are still in the process of adding inventory, shelving, etc.
We began with the "Taboon Trio," which consisted of hummus, tzaziki and taramosalata paired with focaccia. The focaccia, adorned with rosemary, was superb. The trio of dips was beyond superb...we could not decide which was our favorite.
For the next course, I chose the beet and halumi salad, which also included baby kale, red quinoa, fennel, pink grapefruit, haricot vert, honey-roasted pecans, and nigella seeds with a white balsamic vinaigrette. The explosive flavors and textures were a symphony in the mouth. This dish was an "11" on a scale of 10.
My wife ordered zucchini cakes, made with feta, fresh herbs, lemon and sumac yogurt sauce. These were very tasty, but the grilled outer side of the cakes did not provide enough of a crunch to offset the soft texture of the center.
With the beet and halumi salad being a tough act to follow, I expected the Colorado Brandt beef hanger steak to be a letdown. How wrong I was! Perfectly slow-cooked, perfectly seasoned and perfectly sliced, it allowed the diner to fully enjoy the flavor of this great but "difficult" cut of meat. It was prepared with a garlic, marjoram and pistachio oil marinade and served with shishito peppers, bone marrow, Idaho potatoes, labneh, smoked duck breast crumble and smoked sea salt.
My bride ordered the "Chicken Taboon," organic French-cut breast served with house-made chicken sausage, frikeeh risotto, duck confit roasted carrots, cipollini onions and turnips. This was another rousing success, and was the best companion to the Burgundy.
Although we are, for the most part, not "dessert people," we did share two different dishes, one of which was very good, the other off the charts. The date sponge cake with Meyer's rum sauce, date and pecan compote, double English cream and a fig reduction was a gorgeous presentation and was also quite delectable.
However, the "silan," a dish which included vanilla ice cream, crisp puffed rice, caramelized pistachios, date honey and shredded halva was one that provided the perfect combination of sweet flavors and a creamy/crunchy tug-of-war. This was nothing short of culinary genius!
In summary, Taboon provided a dining experience which will not be forgotten. We had the opportunity to meet Chef Efraim ("Efi") Nahon and found him to be a very modest man who is clearly passionate about his food. His passion is evident in his dishes and Taboon will be a fixture on our dining itinerary every time we return to New York.
Happy and fully satiated, we were then entertained by a visually spectacular Broadway production, An American in Paris at The Palace Theatre (http://www.anamericaninparisbroadway.com). The singing and dancing were phenomenal and the spacious venue was beautiful.
Still having difficulty adjusting to Eastern Time, we again stayed up late, watching TV with snacks and a glass of 2012 Jamieson Ranch Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Double Lariat, which we purchased at Wine Wisdom the same time as the Domaine Roy Burgundy. This was a fitting end to a glorious day in the Big Apple.
Well-known from his lengthy stints at Atelier and The Modern, Alsatian-born Gabriel Kreuther opened his eponymous restaurant near the Avenue of the Americas in June (41 West 42nd street; http://www.gknyc.com). The attractive restaurant is spacious, contemporary and very comfortable.
From start to finish, the team of professionals handling our table were outstanding. The presentation of dishes was as though choreographed, which is no small feat when certain dishes come to the table under a smoke-filled dome.
The restaurant's wine list, presented on an I-Pad, is extensive. I enlisted the help of our sommelier, José Miguel Burga, deferring to his expertise in selecting something which would pair nicely with the dishes being ordered. He brought us the 2013 Domaine Berthet Bondet Côtes du Jura Trio, a lighter-styled red with excellent acidity and great versatility. It was a worthy partner to all of the food. Of note is that the restaurant's line of stemware (from Lehmann) is exquisite. The stems are chosen based upon the wine type, with ours being the beautiful specimen seen below.
We were greeted with sliced Alsatian kugelhopf, a delicious yeast breast made with scallions, herbs and eggs. It was perfectly paired with whipped fromage blanc that elevated the bread's flavor to an even higher level.
As an amuse-bouche, we were served a crunchy-textured saffron cracker with panna cotta, mint and balsamic vinegar (top) and (bottom) watercress foam with toasted walnuts, quince and apple cider. Very creative...and a perfect entry into the culinary world of Chef Kreuther.
For my first course, I chose the langoustine tartare, served with flying fish roe, salty fingers and a cauliflower-macadamia purée. I am not sure of the composition of the crunchy thin layer which crowned the tartare, but it was very flavorful and provided a great textural note to the dish.
My wife ordered the sturgeon and sauerkraut tart, served with American caviar mousseline under a dome of applewood smoke. Stunning to look at and even more stunning to eat!
For my second course, I went with the Long Island crescent duck, served with spinach "fleischschnecke" and red cabbage. Additonal bites on the plate included foie gras, whirled onion, pomegranate and marcona almonds. This highlighted the creativity of Chef Kreuther and was a symphony of flavors.
My better half chose the mangalitsa lardo poached Maine lobster, served with squid ink gnocchetti, cockle ragout and jamón emulsion. As with all of Chef Kreuther's dishes, it was visually a masterpiece and incredibly appetizing.
Served alongside our second courses was a black and white French baguette, with the whirled black portion attributable to bamboo charcoal. It was delectable and even more so with the koscher butter that it came with.
For dessert, my wife ordered the "fantasy" chocolate kirsch amarena, served with guanaja chantilly, olive oil sponge cake and kirsch sorbet. This was drizzled with additional chocolate at the table. While I did not think that I had room for dessert, this could not be passed up! Fortunately she shared it with me.
Not missing any detail, we were provided with a "parting note" of colorful chocolates and tiny cakes. The presentation here was so innovative. What a way to end a sublime dining experience!
The Grand Tastings for the Wine Spectator event are what can best be described as semi-controlled chaos. For those with full access, the first hour is relatively stress-free. Thereafter, it becomes much more crowded with wine lovers who have elected to purchase tickets only for the particular Grand Tasting. Despite the crowd, this portion of the event is still fun from start to finish. Winery owners, winemakers and "upper level" representatives pour the wines, all of which have been rated 90 or better by the Wine Spectator. Without exception, those pouring the wines are gracious, knowledgeable and indefatigable.
The Grand Tastings encompass two floors. This being our second year at the event, we have a bit of knowledge about the "flow" of things. As such, on this particular night, we restricted ourselves to the 5th floor, with plans of staying on the 6th floor the next night.
The Friday morning seminar session began with a short welcoming speech from Marvin Shanken, Wine Spectator Editor and Publisher. He seemed genuinely excited about the program, especially in anticipation of Huey Lewis and the News as the entertainment at the Grand Award Banquet. In fact, he played a passage of "Power of Love" on his I-Phone, which was piped through the room's sound system.
The first seminar of the morning was a structured tasting of four red Burgundy offerings from the 2012 vintage. After being introduced by Bruce Sanderson, Wine Spectator Senior Editor, the domaine owners discussed their wines in the context of the challenging (but overall successful) vintage. Included were Gilles de Courcel (Domaine de Courcel), Nathalie Tollot (Domaine Tollot-Beaut), Etiene Grivot (Domaine Jean Grivot) and Pierre Gelin (Domaine Pierre Gelin). The discussion was engaging and the wines were delicious.
Having a daughter of my own, I found this session to be particularly uplifiting. Gaia Gaja is a lovely, competent "woman's woman" and her dad knows it. Angelo spoke about his concerns regarding climate change, while Gaia, providing a fresh and optimistic perspective, talked about the "upside" of warmer temperatures. It was refreshing to hear her speak about the adjustments that can make lemonade out of lemons (as it pertains to global warming). Where Angelo and Gaia are on the same page is their reluctance to embrace communism. Angelo related an interesting story as it pertains to California worms that they import to use in their compost. The communists of the local government don't like the fact that they are importing anything from the great Satan of capitalism (the United States). Angelo assauged the situation by informing them that he had tried to import Russian worms, but they were unavailable. He jokingly added that the communists were also comforted by knowing that the worms from California were "red" in color.
This session, moderated by Bruce Sanderson, involved a presentation and discussion of four 2010 Barolos from four top producers. These included Pietro Ratti (Renato Ratti), Elisa Scavino (Paolo Scavino), Franco Conterno (Aldo Conterno) and Franco Massolino (Massolino). Each gave an informative talk about the soil, climate and vinification techniques which led to these ultimate gorgeous bottlings.
For any oenophile, the name "Harlan" conjures up a special image. Known for superb (albeit expensive) wines in his portfolio (Harlan Estate, Bond and Promontory), not much is actually known about the man himself. While the article by Kim Marcus in the November 15, 2015 issue of the Wine Spectator was extremely enlightening, frosting on the cake was to actually hear Bill Harlan speak. Although clearly a private man who does not interact much with the media, he is an excellent speaker and is obviously very intelligent. I particularly enjoyed the description of his relationship with Robert Mondavi, and how Robert shaped his vision in the wine world. Even more special was his discussion of the "succession plan" for Harlan. It is very clear that Bill Harlan is a man who wants his wine legacy to continue with the production of the highest quality wines from a family-owned winery. Bill's children, Will (28) and Amanda (24) are poised to take over the operation when the time comes. They will likely be at the helm with Harlan's next winemaker, Cory Empting, who has worked under Bob Levy and will hopefully have same 30+ year career with Harlan Estate.
Parenthetically, I was able to meet and chat with Will Harlan at the Critics' Choice Grand Tasting (#2), and found him to be an intelligent, articulate young man. He and his sister are a bit older than my son and daughter, but I could clearly relate with Will's dad about the importance of a "succession plan."
With an introduction from Thomas Matthews, Pablo Álvarez gave an interesting talk about the history of Vega Sicilia, its vineyards, vinification techniques and vintage characteristics. A very humble man, he was clearly uncomfortable with all of the praise heaped upon him. I had the opportunity to meet him later at the Critics’ Choice Grand Tasting (#2), and found him to be a genuinely nice man, quite shy and unassuming.
Following the morning seminars was a wonderful luncheon which was sponsored by Wines of Argentina. Each table had thirteen different wines. I think that I did well by being able to sample seven of them. I would have loved to have tried them all, but there was simply not enough time. Those that I did taste were quite good, and paired nicely with the three-course meal.
The first course was a plate of shaved young vegetables, with bitter greens, gorgonzola whip, black currants and licorice honey.
The next dish consisted of pan-seared chicken breast, served with sautéed kale, sweet potato purée, peppered bacon and apple-cranberry chutney.
For dessert we were served a fresh fig and espresso fruit "pizza," which was creative and delicious.
Friday's afternoon session began with the first five wines in the countdown of Wine Spectator's top ten wines of the the year. Wines #10 through #6 were serially discussed by the winemakers, all of whom were very enthusiastic and engaged. Participants included Pierre Graffeuille (Château Léoville Las Cases), Isabel Guilisasti (Concha y Toro), Greg Brewer (Brewer-Clifton), Vincent Avril (Clos des Papes) and Marco Pallanti (Castello di Ama).
Particularly memorable for me was Isabel Guilisasti emphatically describing the 2010 Don Melchor as being the best that Concha y Toro has ever made (which says a lot about that particular bottling, considering the stellar record of Don Melchor). Also memorable was Greg Brewer's talk about how he rose from a latchkey kid in L.A. to a successful winery owner. Paul Avril appeared to be a little sensitive about criticism that his wines have received regarding their ripeness. However, he showed his sense of humor when he described (with a giggle) the sorting table as being where the "best, not necessarily the ripest" grapes are selected.
I particularly enjoyed the talk by Jean Engelbrecht of South Africa's Rust en Vrede. An excellent speaker, he exuded humility wrapped in humor. Jean immediately disarmed the crowd by saying "when I saw the list of wines and vintners being presented here, my name was the only one that I had never heard of." After the laughter died down, he proceeded to express his gratitude to the United States government and to the American people for allowing the South African wine industry to penetrate our market following the end of apartheid in 1994. More importantly, he thanked us for giving their industry a "second chance" after some early stumbles. His sincerity and warmth were undeniably genuine.
Maybe I'm just getting old, or maybe I have just seen too many conceited entertainers and athletes in the media. It was refreshing to see Jean Engelbrecht, an undeniable legend (and pioneer) in the world of wine, comport himself in such a manner. It is exactly what I have tried to instill in my two children.
Introduced by Harvey Steiman, a wine critic for whom I have the greatest respect, was Peter Gago, an equally respected man in his own right. Gago is the chief winemaker for Penfolds, a brand owned by a large conglomerate (Treasury Wine Estates) that can somehow maintain a portfolio of wine properties that do not seem to suffer from "the suits." Gago's voice pitch and accent are intoxicating. After his talk, I told him that he should do Hollywood voiceovers, which gave him a chuckle. I doubt that there is currently a man who knows more about the Penfolds estates.
Adhering to our "game plan," we confined ourselves to the sixth floor on this evening. While each floor offered a beautiful spread of food to enjoy, on the 6th floor it was actually located on the stage area inside the ballroom where the wineries were pouring. As such, it was a bit easier to "nibble" as we went along.
It should be noted that, while all wines poured during seminars are screened by a team of esteemed sommeliers, the wines at the Grand Tastings are only screened by the server. Aeration times can also vary, depending on the activity at the table and how many additional bottles have to be opened during the session itself. The servers can get very busy during this event and, though not common, it is possible for a particular bottle to not show well. I found this to be the case with the 2006 Château Calon-Ségur. Given the track record of the 2006 iteration of Calon-Ségur, I suspected that my sample perhaps came from a bottle that was flawed or simply did not receive enough aeration. As such, I did not feel that it would be fair for me to give it a rating. Unfortunately, I did not get a chance to go back to the table for a taste from a different bottle.
Pablo Álvarez (Vega-Sicilia)
Dave Roberts (Red Stitch)
Andrew Vingiello (A.P. Vin)
At last year's event, Andrew Vingiello's wife, Brenda, was pregnant. She delivered their daughter, Genevieve shortly thereafter. Andrew is a now a "seasoned" daddy who (like me as it relates to my daughter) is smitten with his girl. The photos confirmed that Genevieve is indeed a little doll!
Tom Matthews opened the Saturday morning session by presenting the 2015 Wine Spectator video contest winner, "Legacy of Jackass Hill" (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fx7mcu_P21g). Produced by Tim Clott and Noel Resnick, it is an entertaining, extremely well-made video which includes the judicious use of a drone camera. I had previously seen the video online, and found it to be very frightening when Lee Martinelli, Sr.'s tractor (pulling a rototiller) becomes unstable on the steep slope and actually destroys several vines. Even though I had seen it before, I again was shaking when I saw the elder Martinelli almost tip his tractor over during this large-screen presentation.
The wine video was followed by a structured tasting of four excellent California Pinot Noirs, each from a different appellation. Moderated by James Laube, the participants included Gary Pisoni (Pisoni), Eva Dehlinger (Dehlinger), Anne-Moller-Racke (Donum Estate) and Scott McCloud (Skywalker). While all four speakers were excellent, it was Gary Pisoni who stole the show. With wild, long curly hair and an equally wild sense of humor, he spoke about the "early days" with his dad (who was a lettuce farmer), then fast-forwarded to where he currently is in his life. Hysterically funny, his commentary repeatedly led to gut-busting laughter from the crowd. The house erupted when he showed a picture of himself in a vineyard, sipping a glass of wine while lying naked (with just his arms and head visible) in a freestanding bathtub. I tried to get a screen shot with my camera, but was not quick enough to capture it.
In addition to Gary Pisoni's humor, I particularly appreciated how highly he spoke of his two sons, who are now involved with him in the business. He stated that his boys have more winemaking talent than he will ever have, and he was obviously beaming with pride. I later had the opportunity to chat with Gary. We both concurred that the greatest thing a father can experience is to see his children become better than him.
Gary Pisoni
While Eric de Rothschild needs no introduction, Marvin Shanken did a great job by showing a four-minute video clip from a PBS documentary commissioned by the Wine Spectator approximately 30 years ago. Narrated by Robert Foxwood (of "Falcon Crest" fame), it was a documentary that I vividly recall watching when it originally aired. The clip shows a young Eric de Rothschild speaking at the San Francisco Wine Experience, narrating a vertical of Château Lafite Rothschild. Marvin commented that the wines poured at that event were worth approximately $60,000 at the time and would be worth far more than $1,000,000 now. This was a distinct nod to the generousity of Eric de Rothschild, not only for that event but also for the many wines he has since poured at Wine Spectator New York Wine Experience.
Eric de Rothschild's talk was outstanding. Not only did he come off as warm and engaged, he also genuinely expressed his admiration for the American wine consumer. He specifically spoke of Americans' willingness to buy what they like, performing far less "label-chasing" than consumers from other countries. You could see his eyes light up when photos of the Lafite estate were projected on the screens. There is no doubt that he loves the property, and he made it very clear that attendees would be greeted with open arms when they come to visit.
During Eric's talk, Marvin returned to the stage for some playful banter, specifically relating to how nice it would be to have another Lafite vertical (similar to the one in San Francisco 30 years ago). Both laughed and joked about each other, then Marvin "tightened the noose" and got Eric to commit to a Lafite vertical at next year's New York Wine Experience. This brought the crowd to its feet!
We had the pleasure last year of witnessing the wonderful speaking skills of Matt Kramer (Wine Spectator Contributing Editor), and he did not let us down this year. Matt has such a great stage presence, speaks spontaneously and "connects" with his audience. He began his talk by revealing that he had been advised that the morning program was running behind schedule as a result of Eric de Rothschild's speech. The crowd erupted in laughter when he then said that, as far as he is concerned, anyone offering to provide a vertical of Lafite is welcome to talk as long as he or she wants!
Matt then proceeded to give an excellent talk about the added dimension provided by old vines. Talking about an old vine as though it has human characteristics, he discussed how such vines are less concerned than "youngsters" about climatic changes. In tasting the wines, he stressed that the most notable benefit of old vine fruit is that it ultimately leads to solid mid-palate density, a fact that was nicely demonstrated in the three outstanding wines that were presented.
As was the case last year, the "Matching Masters" session was a big hit. Three famous chefs and an equally well-known restraunteur created signature dishes which were served to attendees on four small plates. Each of the participants selected a wine to go with one of the other's dish. Tom Matthews also selected a wine to go with each dish. After tasting the dishes and wine pairings, votes were taken as a means of assessing which pairing was best. The participants included Emeril Lagasse (Emeril's, New Orleans), José Andrés (Bazaar, Washington, D.C.), Danny Meyer (Union Square Hospitality Group, New York) and Michael Lomonaco (Porter House, New York).
The photo below shows the dishes that were presented to the attendees. In the upper left is an organic potato salad with smoked Evans Farm sturgeon, Evans Farm caviar and apple vinaigrette. This was prepared by Emeril Lagasse.
In the upper right is the dish prepared by José Andrés, a piquillo confit with crabmeat, topped with trout roe and ajo blanco.
The lower right dish, prepared by Danny Meyer, is a roasted pumpkin custard with hazelnuts and black truffle.
Michael Lomonaco's dish appears in the lower left. It is a "beef duo": Dry-aged New York strip steak with Italian salsa verde and braised short rib, polenta cake, crumble Maytag blue cheese and pickled mushroom.
To pair with Emeril's dish, José chose the Belondrade y Lurton Rueda, while Tom chose the Cloudy Bay Chardonnay. The "judge" was Michael, who preferred the Cloudy Bay. Emeril also preferred the Cloudy Bay, while a poll of the crowd produced a draw.
Michael chose the Arianna Occhipinti Frappato to go with José's dish, while Tom selected the Delas Condrieu. The Condrieu was the clear winner here ("judge" Danny, José and the crowd).
For Danny's roasted pumpkin dish, Emeril chose the Kistler Chardonnay, while Tom picked the Gosset Champagne. The verdict from "judge" José , Danny and the crowd was in favor of the Gosset.
Michal's beef duo was paired with the Fontodi Chianti Classico (chosen by Danny) and the Álvaro Palacios Priorat (chosen by Tom). The "judge" was Emeril, who called it a draw. Michael and the crowd concurred that there was no clear winner here, as both wines paired beautifully with the dish.
With a son who lives in eastern Washington, we have long been aware of the quality of Washington State wines. Accordingly, we were looking forward to this luncheon, which was sponsored by Washington State Wine. As was the case with the Argentina wine luncheon on the previous day, each table had thirteen different wines to be enjoyed with the lunch. Time constraints prevented me from trying them all, but I was able to sample eight. My notes reflect the overall high quality of what I tasted.
The lunch began with a chicken pot pie, served with fava beans, onion, dill, pomegranate and dill salad. It was a delicious dish which paired well with the reds.
The main course was roasted salmon, served with red quinoa, sweet corn salad and herb oils. The fish was fresh and perfectly cooked. The quinoa was a great accompaniment. Although one would think that a white wine would be preferred with this dish, I did not have the time to sample the whites. Nevertheless, the reds paired fairly well.
The dessert course was a Washington State apple and caramel brûlée tart, which was visually beautiful and equally tasty.
This session concluded the countdown from #5 to #1, all of which were discussed by winemakers and winery owners. As was the case with the countdown of wines #10 to #6, the participants were enthusiastic and engaged. Included in this session were Simone Horgan-Furlong (Leeuwin Estate), Francisco Olazabal (Quinta do Vale Meão), Charles Symington (Prats & Symington), Sparky Marquis (Mollydooker) and Rupert Symington (Dow).
For those who have previously heard him speak, it was no surprise that Sparky Marquis was a bundle of laughs. Projecting scientific-like graphs with nonscientific terms (such as "flavor" and "fruit weight") kept the crowd giggling. His tongue-in-cheek approach was highly entertaining.
Also memorable for me was Simone Horgan-Furlong discussing just how age-worthy Leeuwin's Chardonnay can be. Based on personal experience, I would agree wholeheartedly.
Last but not least was a comment made by Charles Symington, when Kim Marcus pointed out that three of the top five wines are from Portugal, something that was unprecedented. He replied that Portuguese vintners will strive to someday have five out of five.
Simone Horgan-Furlong
Sparky Marquis
Rupert Symington
Ken Wright is indeed a "wine star" as a result of his history as a Pinot producer in Oregon. Intelligent, articulate and possessing a good voice, he gave a somewhat clinical discussion of soil and geological formations as they relate to vine development. I personally would have enjoyed it if he had also chatted about what was in our glass. That said, it was an informative talk from a legend in the wine business.
It is hard to believe that an event can have a "trump card" that is pulled in the final seminar session, but that is exactly what happened this year when, after so many amazing seminars, the Wine Spectator treated us to a six-vintage vertical of first-growth Château Mouton Rothschild. Introduced by James Molesworth were Philippe Sereys de Rothschild (Mouton co-owner) and Philippe Dhalluin (Mouton general director and winemaker).
The son of Baroness Philippine de Rothschild, Philippe Sereys de Rothschild has, upon the death of his mom, been thrust into ownership of the estate. At the age of 52, he seems like a kid to me, but is definitely no "spring chicken." He appeared a little bit nervous on the stage, but also seemed very sincere. I have no doubt that he will pick up where his mom left off and, in fact, guide the estate to an even higher quality level (if that's possible).
Mouton's general director and winemaker is Philippe Dhalluin, who is experienced, polished and a very good speaker. He talked eloquently about each Mouton vintage, knowing the wines as though they were his children.
After Phillipe Dhalluin spoke, Marvin Shanken, coming from the audience, took the stage and, with heartfelt sincerity, spoke about his affection and admiration for the Baroness. Having recently lost my mother, I recall her friends speaking in a similar fashion, and how impactful it was for me to hear. Philippe Sereys de Rothschild, standing at the podium with Marvin, became emotional in the same way that I was. The photo below speaks volumes.
Regarding the wines, they were superlative. As both "Philippes" said, "Mouton never changes." Bravo!!!
We were looking forward to the Grand Award Banquet, which was a lot of fun last year. This year's event was even better! It began with a Champagne reception in the 5th floor ballroom, where easels with large photos of each Wine Spectator Grand Award-winning restaurant flanked the perimeter and delicious hors d'oeuvres were being passed by roving servers.
Wines being poured were as follows:
Bollinger Brut Champagne Special Cuvée NV
Charles Heidsieck Brut Champagne Réserve NV
Henriot Brut Champagne Souverain NV
Piper-Hiedsieck Brut Champagne NV
Louis Roederer Brut Champagne Premier NV (from magnum)
Salon Brut Blanc de Blancs Champagne Le Mesnil 2002
Taittinger Brut Rosé Champagne Prestige NV (from magnum)
While I did sample several of these fine offerings, I focused primarily on the Salon, which is nothing short of stunning. Despite the general scarcity and expense of this wine, it was free-flowing (a fact that was recognized and greatly appreciated by attendees).
The party then transitioned to the Grand Ballroom on the 6th floor, which was beautifully decorated. After brief opening remarks by Marvin Shanken (who was giddy about the prospect of seeing Huey Lewis and the News), dinner proceeded. Each table was provided with free-flowing Sterling Chardonnay Napa Valley Reserve 2012 and Harlan's "The Maiden" Napa Valley 2012.
The first course was an heirloom tomato and burrata salad with arugula, citrus oil and Maldon sea salt, with which the Sterling Chardonnay paired nicely.
For the main course we were served a petite filet mignon (with truffle butter) and fig-braised beef short rib with bone marrow hedgehog mushroom pudding, sweet potato purée and fall harvest vegetables. The meat was perfectly cooked and the dish worked beautifully with The Maiden.
The dessert course consisted of a caramel and vanilla chocolate bar with brown bread ice cream...scrumptious!
Toward the end of the meal, Marvin Shanken presented the 2015 Wine Spectator Restaurant Grand Award Winners, followed by the Wine Spectator 2014 Wine of the Year Award (Dow Vintage Port 2011) and the Wine Spectator Distinguished Service Award (Bill Harlan). After that, it was all Huey Lewis and the News! They were absolutely fantastic and the dance floor was packed from their first note to their last. The photos can hardly capture the energy and pure fun of this portion of the evening.
Having previously dined at The French Laundry (https://www.cellartracker.com/event.asp?iEvent=10706&searchId=5BC83277&UISource=list), we had high expectations for our long-planned Sunday lunch at Per Se (4, 10 Columbus Circle; http://www.thomaskeller.com/per-se). In a nutshell, these expectations were exceeded in every respect. Located in the Time Warner Center at Columbus Circle, Per Se is a comfortable, contemporary setting that is beautiful in its simplicity. Without music, the restaurant has very little distracting noise, which makes it easy to concentrate on each of the numerous dishes that are presented. The dining experience is just that...an "experience." For food and wine enthusiasts, it is a fantasyland!
Per Se is a Wine Spectator Grand Award winner for a reason. Their wine list (presented to diners on an I-Pad) is extensive, with more than 2,300 selections. Although I had fun perusing the list, I made the smart decision of enlisting the help of our sommelier, Sean Crenny. From the get-go, he brought us a half-bottle of the Pierre Moncuit Champagne Grand Cru Cuvée Pierre Moncuit-Delos Blanc de Blancs Brut, which paired nicely with several of the dishes (as noted below). He additionally immediately decanted a bottle of the 2007 Castello di Neive Barbaresco Riserva Santo Stefano, which opened up beautifully and paired nicely with the dishes served later in the meal. For my wife's foie gras course, she was brought a glass of 2008 Klein Constantia Vin de Constance, which was a match made in heaven! All wines at Per Se were served with Riedel Sommelier series stemware, which added yet another degree of elegance.
We both elected to go with the "Chef's Tasting Menu," although the restaurant also offers a multi-course vegetarian option.
As an amuse-bouche, we were brought mini gruyère gougères and salmon tartare cornets with sweet red onion crème fraîche. These were a great way to get things going.
For our first course, we each chose the "oysters and pearls," which is Thomas Keller's clever name for his signature dish (the only item on the menu that never changes). It is a sabayon of pearl tapioca with Island Creek oysters and sterling white sturgeon caviar. We had previously enjoyed this dish at the French Laundry several years ago. What a treat it was to reprise the experience and what a great match the dish was with the Champagne.
Artisan breads, hand-churned butters and a wide variety of sea salts were brought to the table, followed by our second courses. I chose the "charred eggplant barbajuan," served with a red pepper crêpe, Hawaiian hearts of peach palm, cerignola olives, marcona almonds and Tuscan kale. This was likewise a great partner with the Champagne.
It was a no-brainer for my wife to go with the slow poached Hudson Valley moulard duck foie gras, served with butternut squash, Pearson Farm’s pecans, red endive,
Swiss chard leaves, quince purée and toasted brioche. This was an "upcharge" that was well worth it. The Klein Constantia Vin de Constance was a perfect match!
We each had the same third course, a pavé of Atlantic halibut, served with fork-crushed fingerling potatoes, heirloom radishes, romaine lettuce and Italian caper cream. This feminine, attractive dish tasted as good as it looked. The Champagne was again a star partner.
Nova Scotia lobster "mitts" followed, with Matsutake mushrooms, Hakurei turnip, chestnut purée and meyer lemon "condiment." This dish was flavor-packed. The fat in the sauce was so well-balanced by the acidity of the Champagne.
For my fifth course, I stuck with one of the standard menu options, which was anything other than "standard." I chose the Wolfe Ranch bobwhite quail with applewood smoked bacon, caramelized sunchokes, Brussels sprouts, pickled pearl onions and sour ale gastrique. This dish was where the Barbaresco really began to strut its stuff as a food companion.
A major "supplement" added to the meal's price was the dish ordered by my wife..."carnaroli risotto biologico," with shaved white truffles from Alba, Castelmagno "mousseline" and "beurre noisette." The photos speak for themselves. The aromas and flavors were intoxicating. Our server came to the table when the dish was half consumed, and he generously shaved more truffles onto the plate. For those visiting Per Se, I strongly recommend biting the bullet and "upgrading." The Barbaresco was a fantastic match with this dish.
For our sixth course, we each had the ribeye of Elysian Fields Farm's lamb (with smoked yogurt, cocktail artichokes, braised pine nuts, Persian cucumbers and sauce gremolata). It was a knockout and the Barbaresco was a wonderful accompaniment.
We were very happy at this point. In fact, we felt like we had died and gone to heaven.
We could have nursed the Barbaresco and gone back to our hotel happy; however, Thomas Keller would simply not allow it. We were to be subsequently treated by courses of treats that would leave us even happier! The first of these was "Mrs. Quicke's cheddar," with honeycrisp apples, Pearson Farm's pecans, ruby beets and celery branch. This was so good with the Barbaresco that it would have won any wine and food pairing contest.
Has anyone reading this ever had a pear and ginger float for a Sunday lunch dessert? I certainly had not, until I was indulged with this delicious yet amazingly light dish. It had a cold, crystal-like consistency which was very refined (not to mention a visually stunning appearance). The photo below does not do this dish justice, but please understand that I am a mere amateur photographer.
Our next dish was "the bottom of your childhood cereal bowl" (poppyseed cakes, raspberry crisps and reduced milk ice cream). It did indeed make one reminisce about the sweet bottom of a Trix-laden cereal bowl.
The next dish was nothing more than chocolate decadence. The photo says it all, as you can see the chocolate and berry marriage, which was harmonious on the palate.
Chocolate decadence was followed by more chocolate decadence. Our server had the composition of each of the 24 chocolate truffles embedded in her brain. She described each and every one, and told us to choose as many as we wanted. I chose three, as did my wife. They were all amazing. My personal favorite was the shiny green rosemary-infused truffle, while my wife's was the classic PB&J.
Our final dish was "coffee and doughnuts" (cappuccino semifreddo with cinnamon and sugar-dusted doughnuts). I hated every bite...until it was all gone. ;-)
In summary, Per Se is simply at the uppermost echelon of dining establishments. It is something to be experienced, something to be celebrated, something to be savored and, most importantly...something to be remembered.
After strolling Times Square and relaxing in our hotel room, we then saw another Broadway play, The Book of Mormon at the Eugene O'Neill Theatre (http://bookofmormonbroadway.com). Irreverent but hysterically funny, it is a top-notch production.
Virtually every night that we spent in New York, we stayed up very late. As mentioned earlier, our "biological clocks" never really transitioned from Pacific Time. On this particular evening, we procured pizza slices at "Patzeria Perfect Pizza, Pasta & Grill" located immediately adjacent to the hotel at 233 West 46th Street. The pepperoni/sausage was delicious but my favorite was the chicken cutlet and onion. We sipped the 2012 Greg Norman Australia Estates Shiraz (ordered from the hotel) with our pizza into the wee hours of the morning and the pair made beautiful music together.
Few places can provide the variety of sightseeing that is offered by New York, specifically Manhattan. It is so culturally diverse that, if you keep your ears open, you will hear several different languages in the span of walking one city block. On this day, we strolled Canal Street, Little Italy, the Financial District, Rockefeller Center and (my favorite) Saint Patrick's Cathedral. Thereafter, I tagged along with my wife while she shopped at Saks Fifth Avenue, Bergdorf Goodman, etc. On our way back to the hotel, I enjoyed getting "photobombed" by the Times Square New Year's Ball.
For dinner, we had pre-planned Orso, an Italian restaurant which was highly recommended by our good friends (322 West 46th Street; http://www.orsorestaurant.com/). Located not far from our hotel, it was an easy walk. We had perused the Orso wine list online and had determined that we would like to have a bit more diversity from which to make our wine selection. We accordingly thought that it would be a good idea to buy a bottle at a wine shop and bring it to dinner. Not far from Orso we found a shop, Ninth Avenue Vintner (669 Ninth Avenue; http://www.ninthavenuevintner.com/), which was better than the two previous purveyors mentioned. The Ninth Avenue Vintner selection was decent and the prices were fairly reasonable. It was there that we purchased the 2010 Fattoria dei Barbi (Colombini) Brunello di Montalcino (for dinner) and the 2011 Domaine du Vieux Lazaret Châteauneuf-du-Pape (for consumption with late-night room service snacks).
Orso is a quaint, below-street-level restaurant which is long and narrow. The décor can best be described as "simple elegance." While modern in some ways, it is rustic in others. The double-tablecloths and muted colors are soothing and, in my opinion, very tasteful. Our server was experienced and friendly, making us feel welcomed and comfortable from the get-go.
For my first course, I ordered the yellowfin tuna tartare, with onion, capers, sun-dried tomatoes, watercress vinaigrette, radish and sesame seeds. This was an outstanding dish. At this point in the meal, I was still nursing a gin martini, which (believe it or not) was a nice match.
My bride ordered the fried calamari, served with lemon-anchovy aioli and fra-diavolo sauce. Battered, crisp and tender, it was a very generous portion.
Certain dishes on the Orso menu are offered in two different portion sizes. For my second course, I ordered the smaller version of fusilli, with asparagus, roasted bell peppers, thyme, tomatoes and Parmesan. It was actually a good-size portion and was very enjoyable. The Fattoria dei Barbi was an excellent match.
My wife ordered the "small" version of the orecchiette, served with sweet Italian sausage, broccoli rabe, cannellini beans and pecorino Romano. A plentiful and delicious dish, it likewise paired well with the Fattoria dei Barbi.
For my third course, I chose the "pollo," pan-roasted free-range chicken with cauliflower. The chicken was moist and tender, and was complemented nicely by the Fattori dei Barbi.
For my wife's third course, she chose the "small" version of rigatoni, with meat sauce and Parmesan. It was a sizable portion and paired well with the Fattoria dei Barbi.
As a side dish with our third courses, we shared the "cima di rape" (sautéed broccoli rabe, hot pepper and garlic). We were also provided with a complementary basket of crisp, thin cheese bread with rosemary. Both of these were great partners to the dishes.
Overall, we were quite pleased with our experience at Orso. I think that the restaurant would benefit by expanding their selection of wines. As of this point, I would recommend bringing your own wine. I cannot specifically recall what Orso's corkage fee was, but I do not remember it as being unreasonable.
As was the case with every other evening, we became hungry in the late-night hours and ordered room service. On this particular night, we greatly enjoyed the 2011 Domaine du Vieux Lazaret Châteauneuf-du-Pape while watching a movie.
As was the case last year, I attempted to write about our trip contemporaneously, although many tape-recorded wine tasting notes from the Grand Tastings needed to be transcribed and added later. As such, I again found it helpful to have in-flight WiFi on our way home, where I could access the CellarTracker web site. As I type, I am viewing the "Big Apple" from our plane.
Our 2014 trip to New York, which included the Wine Spectator New York Wine Experience, was amazing. To be perfectly honest, we did not anticipate it being "topped" by this year's trip, but that's exactly what happened. Somehow the 2015 event was even better, as was our trip overall. New Yorkers were (again) very friendly and treated us courteously. We will savor our memories and be counting the days until next year's trip!
2012 Herdade dos Grous Vinho Regional Alentejano Reserva 90 Points
Portugal, Alentejano, Vinho Regional Alentejano
(10/19/2015)
An unspecified blend of Alicante Bouschet, Tinta Miúda and Touriga Nacional, this inky, opaque crimson wine was consumed with multiple dishes at a renowned New York Portuguese-themed restaurant. Chosen and decanted by our sommelier, it proved itself to be a worthy companion to the delicious dishes. Very floral on the nose, it is quite possible that a blindfolded taster would confuse this for a fine white wine (if only allowed to sniff). White flowers, lavender, black raspberry, coriander and cardamom adorn the nose and palate. Full-bodied, freshly acidic and without noticeable alcohol (14%), it frames the flavors with medium-weight, supple tannins and gains traction in the middle. Closing medium-to-long, this is yet another underrated performer from Portugal. Drink now-2025.
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