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Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux 2008 Tasting
The Barker Hangar – Santa Monica, CA
Tasted January 22, 2011 by Badfish with 1,288 views
Introduction
So the 2008 vintage came to town and the UGC tasting was once again at a new venue. The Barker Hangar was a great location aside from the occasional blast of jet engines. There was plenty of room unlike past years and the only issue I had was the lack of dump buckets in accessible locations. They were all placed right next to where the wines were being poured which made taking notes and spitting quite the ordeal. In any case I thoroughly enjoyed the event as it was the best organized of the three I have been to.
The wines themselves are quite charming I have to say, the reports on this vintage are decidedly mixed so coming into this tasting I didn't know what to expect. What I experienced was wines of high quality in a more restrained style than the benchmark vintages of late. There of course are wines that should have turned out better than they did and the typical pitfalls of those wines tend to be over extraction and over oaking. No one region really stood out in terms of outstanding wines aside from Pomerol of which I only tried three wines. My favorites are obvious from the notes and none of the wines tasted were bad but there are differing styles of course. I think there is an impression that this vintage will be early drinking, that is a valid assumption but I would not count these wines out in terms of longevity. Most offerings have great balance and structure and while the fruit is somewhat more reserved than typical for marquis vintages I doubt these wines will miss that extra weight. With that said you must seek restraint in your Bordeaux to really love this vintage. In general the aromatics and flavors tend to show more herb and spice tones with red and purple fruit profiles. If you seek blockbuster black fruited Bordeaux you probably should look elsewhere. I won't say I am enamored with the vintage as I have saved that emotion for 2005 but I appreciate the nuance and charm of 2008. As the precursor to 2009 these wines will probably be overshadowed but I think I am not the only one with apprehension towards that “vintage of a lifetime.” I think 2008 can be compared to vintages such as 2001 and 2006 in that the general quality of the wines is quite good with some individual efforts being outstanding.
As for the whites the issue of oak is especially prominent in the dry wines and it seems like they would be so much more appetizing without the obtrusive wood. The stickies are a complete surprise to me as I was not expecting much from the vintage. For the most part they are superb with a nice balance of richness and elegance. With this vintage being under the radar for Sauternes and Barsac I would give the serious estates a look, there may be some great values.
Flight 1 - Pessac-Léognan Blanc (7 notes)
White
2008 Château Carbonnieux Blanc
89 points
Gorgeous on the nose with aromas of lime, melon, nuts, and vanilla. The palate is heavier with rich yet attractive flavors of honeysuckle and citrus. The length is decent and while this could use some restraint it is a solid effort.
White
2008 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc
93 points
Absolutely superb from the start here with tremendous minerality and floral tone to the citrus and peach aromas. The nose is simply stunning because of its elegance and complexity. The palate is also great with superb density and tension throughout. The flavors tend towards yellow and white in tone and are substantial yet unobstructed by oak or structure. This was easily the best of the dry whites in my opinion as it has all the elements you want in great Bordeaux blanc. 93+
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Comment
White
2008 Château Haut-Bergey Blanc
89 points
Rich and fragrant on the nose with notes of peach, sweet stones, and honeysuckle. Round and primary on the palate with floral and vegetal tones to the flavors. I think this is very interesting in character but it is somewhat young and over exuberant at this stage.
White
2008 Château Larrivet-Haut-Brion Blanc
88 points
Quite forward and primary on the nose with aromas of rich oak, stone fruits, and minerals. Dense and excessive on the palate but again very young in its flavors of oak and lemons. There seems to be a trend with the white wines in this vintage. 88+?
White
2008 Château Malartic-Lagravière Blanc
91 points
Glorious on the nose with notes of white flowers, cinnamon, yellow fruits, and stones. There are yellow stone fruit flavors on the palate matched with brown spice and oak tones. Quite backward and primordial but this shows excellent character and the balance is sound.
White
2008 Château Pape Clément Blanc
91 points
The fruit is quite reticent on the nose but it does shows green fruits and banana to go with the heady oak. Rich and opulent on the palate with dense mineral extract teetering against raw oak. This is obviously young but the oak and texture is worrisome, hopefully the fruit and tension are lurking somewhere. 91?
White
2008 Château Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc
91 points
Superb complexity on the nose with opulent aromas of crushed stones, spices, tropical fruits, and green fruits. Once again heady and thick on the palate with yellow fruit and spicy oak flavors. These wines obviously need time but I wonder what they would be like without so much oak.
Flight 2 - Pessac-Léognan Rouge (7 notes)
Red
2008 Domaine de Chevalier
89 points
The nose is really explosive here with notes of kirsch, currant, herbs, and scorched earth. The palate is quite dry in texture from the firm tannins and thus the flavors tend towards herbs, pepper, and earth. Intriguing in character but quite dry and severe at this stage.
Red
2008 Château de Fieuzal
88 points
Attractive and fruity on the nose with aromas of fresh berries, stones, savory herbs, and licorice. Structured and dense on the palate with dark fruits such as currant and complexities of herbs and stones. Although quite primary I like the tension in this wine from the firm structure.
Red
2008 Château Haut-Bailly
91 points
Delicate and lovely on the nose with fresh floral aromas of currant and berry. The palate offers firm tannins and plenty of dry extract but the wine is approachable nonetheless due to the seductive fruit. The flavors are elegant and red fruited in tone with hints of tobacco. A charming effort as usual from Haut Bailly.
Red
2008 Château Larrivet-Haut-Brion
90 points
The aromas are really attractive and complex here with notes of earth, red berries, spices, and herbs. Very charming as well on the palate with flavors of red fruits, earth, spices, and stones. Maybe not as dense and burly as some of the offerings but this is endearing.
Red
2008 Château Malartic-Lagravière
88 points
High toned and savory on the nose with notes of dark berries and stones. The palate is dense and structured with tones of herbs and earth dominating the red fruits that are there. The fruit is quite reticent but I think this should be solid with age.
Red
2008 Château Pape Clément
90 points
This has pure berry extract on the nose with complicating notes of purple flowers and currant leaf. The palate is a black hole with gobs of gripping tannins and dry extract. The flavor impression is that of black olives, black currant, and blackberries. I don't know what to make of this wine as it is just so backward with rich heady textures and flavors throughout. 90?
Red
2008 Château Smith Haut Lafitte
92 points
Beautiful fruit aromas on the nose with specific notes of blackberry, cherry, flowers, and currant. The fruit is also superb on the palate with a sweet impression to match the firm tannins. There is good minerality throughout and while structured this wine is more approachable and restrained than the others from this appellation.
Flight 3 - Saint-Émilion (11 notes)
Red
2008 Château Angélus
93 points
Delicately complex on the nose with great floral fruit aromas of purple berries, plums, crushed stones, and licorice. The palate is opulent and rich initially with beautiful acidity and tannins soon emerging to support the dark fruit and spice flavors. This is really complex and the structure provides wonderful tension and balance. Not as lumbering and rigid as some of the other wines from this appellation.
Red
2008 Château Beau-Séjour Bécot
89 points
Ripe and roasted on the nose with a dark opulent note of crème de cassis. The palate is also extremely rich with sweet currant and berry fruit supported by the firm tannins. This wine comes across as slightly over the top with aspects that seem more common to Napa than Bordeaux. 89?
Red
2008 Château Canon
91 points
There is a really attractive floral bouquet here with notes of crushed cherry and raspberry. The palate is elegant but the fruit is substantial with red and purple tones throughout. The tannins are firm but they mellow out on the finish as the acidity lifts the texture. Quite ethereal with good structure and complexity.
Red
2008 Château Canon-la-Gaffelière
92 points
The nose is ripe but not obtrusively and there are notes of purple fruits such as currant and berries matched with spices. The palate is rich with great structure due to the firm tannins and fresh acidity. The flavors tend towards ripe fruits such as plum and there are complicating notes of minerals and herbs. The texture is slightly dry through the finish but I think the balance between tannins, acidity, and fruit is sound.
Red
2008 Château Figeac
92 points
There are beautiful restrained aromas of strawberry, raspberry, and stones in a delicate floral style that is so ethereal. The palate offers superb delicacy to the fresh fruit flavors of berries and minerals. The balance is tremendous and I really love the elegant nuanced style of this wine.
Red
2008 Clos Fourtet
90 points
Fresh and delicate on the nose with mineral tension to the ripe aromas of plum and raspberry. The palate is also quite ripe with notes of plum, spices, and minerals. The lifted texture and structure provide adequate balance to the beautiful fruit exhibited by this wine.
Red
2008 Château La Gaffelière
90 points
Complex and brackish on the nose with intriguing aromas of mint, dark berries, and forest floor. The palate is backward and rocky with black fruit, firm tannins, and a chalky texture. As usual this wine has singular character and there is particular potential in this offering. 90+
Red
2008 Château Larcis Ducasse
91 points
There are red and purple tones to the aromas here with notes of plum and herbs. The palate yields similarly attractive fruit along with tannins that quickly build through the stone laden finish. The texture is not sharp but quite seductive and provides great styling to this wine.
Red
2008 Château Pavie Macquin
89 points
The nose is showing a surmaturité tone with ultra ripe aromas of prunes and crème de cassis. The palate is also ripe and sweet with dark extracted fruit and tannins. I have to say this wine closes well as the finish is not as laborious as the mid palate. With that said I have reservations about the style here. 89+?
Red
2008 Château Troplong Mondot
91 points
Rich but actually quite elegant for this estate with lovely floral aromas of plums, berries, and herbs. The palate is firmly structured with surprisingly restrained fruit in a backward style. The flavors tend towards red and purple in tone and are somewhat dominated by the extracted tannins. I have to say I was expecting more complexity and fruit density from this wine.
Red
2008 Château Trotte Vieille
91 points
This wine is really ripe and explosive on the nose with sweet aromas of berries, spices, and oak. The palate is intriguing with an overwhelming streak of clove that envelops the other flavors of cherry and berry. There is solid balance and the clove character is really unique, I just wonder if it is the terroir or the oak treatment. 91?
Flight 4 - Pomerol (3 notes)
Red
2008 Château Clinet
96 points
One of the most delicate and complex bouquets of the tasting, this offers fresh crushed fruit and floral aromas of cherries, berries, violets, and crushed stones. The palate is stunning with lovely delicacy and tension to the textures and flavors. All that you love about Pomerol with its rich red fruits and suave tannin presence. Stunning in its restraint and balance at this stage, this wine has deceptively complex nuances that could easily get lost in the context of this tasting. This will be a beautiful wine to drink on the younger side and because of the balance and lurking density I think it will surprise in longevity as well.
Red
2008 Château Gazin Pomerol
92 points
Restrained but beautiful in a poised and floral style, the nose has notes of herbs, earth, and plum. The palate offers dense seductive fruit and structure that easily matches it. This is a more structured style of Pomerol but the elegance comes through on the finish as the fruit density and acidity mellow out the tannins. A wine that will need some time but all of the components are obviously here. 92+
Red
2008 Château La Conseillante
93 points
Tremendous complexity and purity on the nose with menacing aromas of currant leaf, flowers, plum, and boysenberry. Firm but approachable on the palate with dense complex fruit that exhibits black and purple tones. Although quite gripping initially the texture turns wonderful juicy and that quality really creates a fitting foil to the dark floral fruit. This again leans more towards the structured end of the Pomerol spectrum but there is a lot of potential here. 93+
Flight 5 - Moulis en Médoc (2 notes)
Red
2008 Château Chasse-Spleen
89 points
The nose is reticent and herb driven initially but some lovely ripe red currant and berry aromas start to emerge with air. The palate is quite direct and severe initially with streaks of minerals and herbs but the red fruit really blossoms on the finish. This wine is quite beautiful in its progression from tension to delicacy.
Red
2008 Château Poujeaux
89 points
There is a tremendous funky style to the nose here as it shows savory driven notes of pencil shavings and earth. The palate continues that theme with dark minerally flavors and textures of slate, dripping oil, and dark fruits. This is obviously quite structured and dense but I love the unique expression and potential of this wine.
Flight 6 - Haut-Médoc (3 notes)
Red
2008 Château Cantemerle
89 points
Lovely and brisk on the nose with complex aromas of flowers, herbs, and sweet fruits such as currant. There is tremendous balance on the palate between the red and purple fruits, the fresh acidity, and the firm tannins. I like the mineral drive through the finish and the structure is admirable for such an elegant wine.
Red
2008 Château La Lagune
90 points
Great freshness and complexity on the nose with notes of grilled herbs, currant, and blackberry. The palate is structured yet approachable with cool dark fruits and minerals balancing the firm sweet tannins. This has been one of the great Médocs of late and while young it shows great harmony and poise.
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Red
2008 Château La Tour Carnet
89 points
This is quite opulent and ripe with wafting aromas of spices, oak, currant, and berries. Glossy and ripe on the palate initially but it gains surprising balance and tension as the acid and tannins build through the finish. There are intriguing herb complexities and in spite of the ripe overtones this is quite enjoyable and poised.
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Flight 7 - Médoc (1 note)
Red
2008 Château Greysac
87 points
Quite pleasant and airy on the nose with fresh chopped mint, raspberry, and stones. The fruit is certainly elegant in light of the structure as the tannins are firm and the acidity is taut. Could obviously use more fruit density as the finish is short but I like the delicate nature of this wine as it isn't in your face.
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Flight 8 - Margaux (6 notes)
Red
2008 Château Brane-Cantenac
89 points
Restrained and floral on the nose with aromas of red berries and currant. The palate is similarly elegant with crunchy currant and berry fruit supported by sweet yet spicy tannins. This wine seems quite reserved and I wonder if it could use more fruit density and structure.
Red
2008 Château Giscours
88 points
There is a very beautiful bouquet to this wine with elements of currant, mint, herbs, and licorice. Rich and stemy in texture on the palate with stern structure and dark herb driven flavors. I like the uniqueness of this wine but the character is somewhat severe at this point.
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Red
2008 Château Kirwan
89 points
Plenty of fresh crushed fruit here with specific notes of currant and oak. The palate is spicy though elegant with attractive floral red fruits and approachable tannin structure. This wine is charming yet lacks that extra depth at this stage to set itself apart.
Red
2008 Château Lascombes
89 points
The nose is initially savory here with spice and herb driven notes, with air those evolve into fresh cherries, currant, and mint. Ripe and bright in tone with heady red fruit flavors leading to spices on the finish. This is quite structured and extracted as the tannins build across the palate but the balance is solid due to the fruit density.
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Red
2008 Château Malescot St. Exupéry
91 points
Really pretty on the nose with gorgeous floral red fruits such as currant and raspberry along with complicating notes of herbs and spices. The palate opens with a supple entry leading to rich and juicy herb tinged fruit. The tannins and acidity provide a firm texture but the fruit has wonderful density to match that. This is quite big and dense for a Margaux but the balance is sound.
Red
2008 Château Rauzan-Ségla
92 points
I love the elegance and poise of this bouquet, it reveals aromas of herbs, flowers, currant, and raspberry. The palate is ripe yet taut with sweet red and purple fruits supported by the deft structure. This wine is certainly rich but the structure provides wonderful elements that give it that trademark Margaux complexity and elegance. One of the best balanced wines of the tasting and because of that it should age beautifully. 92+
Flight 9 - Saint-Julien (7 notes)
Red
2008 Château Branaire-Ducru
91 points
There is lovely elegance to the aromas of candied berries and sweet herbs. The palate is more restrained than I expected with juicy red fruits and deft structure. I really love the balance of this wine as the fruit is dense while elegant and the tannin-acid interplay presents a great texture. Maybe not showing a lot of character at this point but it will with age.
Red
2008 Château Gruaud Larose
91 points
Delicately complex on the nose with tremendous notes of red berries, currants, herbs, and sweet earth. There is lovely balance and restraint on the palate with a wonderful earthy texture that melds with the flavors of red and purple fruits. The structure of this wine is superb as the tannins and acidity create a texture that really suits the character of the fruit.
Red
2008 Château Lagrange (St. Julien)
91 points
Really gorgeous ripe aromas just waft out of the glass with floral notes of currants, spices, and minerals. The palate is equally fine with sweet juicy fruit, tremendous mineral thrust, and a unique cinnamon note on the finish. The balance is stunning already with cohesion between all components. What a strong effort from this estate in a more forward yet charming style.
Red
2008 Château Langoa Barton
89 points
The nose is very primary here with ripe berries, kirsch, licorice, and oak. The palate is structured and extracted with great fruit density and firm tannins. The flavors show the obvious youthful exuberance of this wine with notes of ripe berries and spices. This is one of the most primary offerings of the tasting but there are no obvious deficiencies.
Red
2008 Château Léoville Barton
91 points
Quite restrained and closed at first but with time in the glass there are elegant aromas of currant, herbs, and forest floor. Surprisingly open on the palate, which is in a primordial state, with stunning rich currant fruit and firm sweet tannins. The structure is obvious and there is not a lot of complexity at this point but I think there is potential due to the fact that it is so embryonic. 91+
Red
2008 Château Léoville Poyferré
92 points
What a vivacious lifted bouquet here, the aromas just go on and on with notes of flowers, licorice, currant, and sweet stones. The palate seems really sinister with ripe sweet fruit and dark firm tannins. The flavors are very interesting with spice and earth elements but the experience is somewhat heavy. This wine has a lot of potential and hopefully with time it will gain some restraint and poise. 92+
Red
2008 Château Saint-Pierre
90 points
Lively, juicy, and extravagant on the nose with notes of sweet currants, blackberry, and earth. The palate shows spicy black and purple fruits with plenty of extraction and density. All of that heavy stuffing really creates an introverted wine that is driven by its structure. The components seem to be in place so I think this just needs quite a bit of time. 90+
Flight 10 - Pauillac (5 notes)
Red
2008 Château Clerc Milon
88 points
Great purity to the fruit on the nose with aromas of currant leaf and boysenberry. The palate is sweet and structured with ripe flavors of currant, berries, and earth undertones. Somewhat light on the finish and the fruit is quite primary but this is a good effort nonetheless.
Red
2008 Château d'Armailhac
89 points
There are lovely and complex aromas on the nose such as slate, currant, and berries. The palate is equally charming with restrained floral and herb driven fruit that shows tinges of dark berry character. This wine has great balance and approachability due to the deft structure.
Red
2008 Château Lynch-Bages
90 points
Extremely ripe on the nose with aromas of lavender, licorice, and currant. The palate is surprisingly dense and extracted with earth and herb driven fruit lashed by firm tannins and acidity. At first I thought this had surprising fruit density compared to other recent offerings from Lynch Bages but then the wine finished somewhat thin. Quite perplexing as I think this has potential but it comes across as a bit of an enigma right now. 90+?
Red
2008 Château Pichon-Longueville Baron
95 points
Drop dead stunning on the nose just dripping minerality, this is elegant yet so unique with aromas of crushed stones, earth, currant, and pencil shavings. The palate opens with stoney sweetness leading into red and purple fruits laced with spices. The balance is simply superb with sweet ripe tannins, lively acidity, and an intriguing savory softness to the texture. This is certainly structured but it just becomes so seductive and unique as the fresh fruit is enveloped by liquefied stones through the finish. I think this wine might be the most genuine of the tasting with its brilliant Pauillac terroir and singular style.
Red
2008 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande
92 points
Very unique if slightly awkward on the nose with deceptively seductive herb toned aromas of licorice, currant, and blackberry. The palate continues the theme with rich herb driven fruit that is somewhat obfuscated by the oak overtones. This wine shows brilliant structure, texture, balance, and it is unique as hell, I just don't hear it screaming Pauillac. I think this wine has a big slug of Petit Verdot so maybe that is obstructing some of that character at this stage in its evolution.
Flight 11 - Saint-Estèphe (1 note)
Red
2008 Château Phélan Ségur
89 points
Rich, dense, and heady on the nose with notes of olive, stones, currant, and spices. The palate is rich and mineral driven with lovely currant fruit, firm tannins, and great balance. Though this is a definite ager I think the restraint is noteworthy for a wine of this appellation.
Flight 12 - Barsac (3 notes)
White - Sweet/Dessert
2008 Château Climens
94 points
Glorious and complex on the nose with an elegant thrust of poached pear and apple, honey, pineapple, and flowers. What tremendous palate expression with a glossy saline entry leading to intense yet balanced flavors of Asian pear, white currants, white raisins, and petrol. This wine is rich yet elegant and nuanced as it showcases that beautiful Climens style. Quite youthful like a ball of white flame at this stage, I can only see it getting better. 94+
White - Sweet/Dessert
2008 Château Coutet Barsac
91 points
Restrained aromatics with delicate sweetness to the notes of pineapple, stone fruits, apple, and minerals. The palate reveals a thick layered texture with tremendous botrytis spice and lingering sweetness through the finish. There is great delicacy because of the fresh acidity and that really provides the structure to match the spicy texture of this wine.
White - Sweet/Dessert
2008 Château Doisy-Daëne
91 points
One of the most lively refreshing noses of the tasting, the aromas really show Sauvignon Blanc character with notes of grass and gooseberry. The interplay from the nose to the palate is so intriguing here because of how different those two phases are. In the mouth this is more honey and spice driven with notes of marmalade, cinnamon, stones, and pineapple on the gorgeous finish.
Flight 13 - Sauternes (6 notes)
White - Sweet/Dessert
2008 Château Guiraud
94 points
Really tremendous on the nose with aromas of glue, sweet stones, tropical fruits, botrytis, and apple sauce. Seriously rich on the palate yet fresh in finishing texture with orange buttressed by mineral thrust. I love the stunning texture and detail of this wine as it offers an experience that is complex yet elegant. Maybe not as heavy as past examples of Guiraud but I think this is better for it.
White - Sweet/Dessert
2008 Château La Tour Blanche Sauternes
88 points
Attractively grassy and elegant aromas emerge here with notes of citrus, stone fruits, and stalk. The palate is similarly elegant with stalky flat fruit and a somewhat abrupt finish. I really love the 2003 and 2005 from this estate so hopefully this was simply an off showing for this wine. 88?
White - Sweet/Dessert
2008 Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey
91 points
I love the sexy nose here as it is slightly unorthodox but undeniably attractive with aromas of pink lemonade, bubblegum, citrus, fresh candy, and stones. The palate like most of these wines is mouthwatering with sweet yet fresh flavors of spices, caramel, guava, and pineapple. The acidity and density are well balanced and because of the youthful exuberance I see this wine improving. 91+
White - Sweet/Dessert
2008 Château de Rayne-Vigneau
91 points
Quite fresh with savory sweetness to the aromas of petrol, honeysuckle, pineapple, and honey. The palate offers spicy richness with flavors of dried pineapple, raisins, and stone fruits. This wine is complex and dense with just enough acidity to balance the lush fruit. I was blown away by the 2007 last year and this is good but nowhere near that level.
White - Sweet/Dessert
2008 Château Sigalas Rabaud
90 points
The aromas are restrained yet complex as the glue and floral tones combine with yellow and white fruits. The palate reveals good length and balance to the flavors of spices, honey, pear, and stone fruits. The texture and density of the fruit is superb here but I feel some added tension would elevate it further.
White - Sweet/Dessert
2008 Château Suduiraut
96 points
Gorgeously elegant and complex on the nose with aromas of sweet flowers, poached pears and apples, spices, stone fruits, and minerals. The palate is simply amazing with satin texture, precise structure, and substantial fruit density. The flavors are novel and sublime with tremendous cinnamon spice thrust and a profound spine of graham cracker across the lingering mid palate. This is unreal in the mouth, I can't stress how unique and long the flavors are with an attractive stoney sweetness to the texture. One of the last wines I tasted, I had to go back for another pour as this was shocking in its quality, something I was not expecting from this vintage for Sauternes. Easily the class of the sweet wines and in the running for best of the tasting, I have to find some of this.