La Paulée de San Francisco 2012
San Francisco, CA
Tasted Saturday, February 25, 2012 by Gargantua with 1,088 views
Introduction
As always, a mad dash to taste as many exciting producers as you can in a few hours. Many wines still show in an angular manner and will improve over time. These notes are no one's but mine, and I have not consulted anyone's thoughts but my own before transcribing from the Paulée. At times, they will wildly diverge from others' opinions, and in some instances, they will bear striking resemblance. I only attribute scores if I feel I have a good grip on a wine.
2009 Domaine Louis Michel Chablis 1er Cru Butteaux
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
As an ensemble, the Michel Chablis showed spectacular noses--about everything I like in Chablis, but were wanting in acid once on the palate. This wine had a nose with a beautiful mineral cut, but the palate felt dilute to me.
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2009 Domaine Louis Michel Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
As with the Butteaux and Vaudésir, a gorgeous nose, but dilute to my palate.
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2009 Domaine Louis Michel Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
The prettiest nose of all the Michel Chablis tasted today. Again: palate was a bit too gentle for my tastes.
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2009 Domaine Louis Michel Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
The palate showed a surprising slightly oxidative and caramel character on the finish. Perhaps a bottle flaw.
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2009 Jean-Philippe Fichet Bourgogne Blanc Vieilles Vignes 91 Points
France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Blanc
Just stunning, fantastic, this is my type of white Burgundy: lean, mineral, acid, and malic (hints of green apple). Outstanding for a Bourgogne blanc, Michèle Fichet explained she could never produce enough to satisfy the thirsty masses raving for the QPR.
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2009 Jean-Philippe Fichet Auxey-Duresses Blanc 91 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Auxey-Duresses
Again, as with all Fichets tasted, fantastic. Apple, malic acid. Mineral purity.
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2009 Jean-Philippe Fichet Meursault 91 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault
Beautiful cut, delicious.
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2009 Jean-Philippe Fichet Meursault Les Chevalières 90 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault
Less cut than other Fichets tasted today, a bit syrupy sweet side of Meursault, but nice acid to follow up.
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2009 Francois Carillon Puligny-Montrachet
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet
Crazy metallic nose; palate was acidic and a bit harsh. Flawed bottle?
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2009 Francois Carillon Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Champs-Gain 93 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
Superstar, clean malic acid apple nose, just an awesome wine. Coolest of all parcels in the Carillon portfolio acc to the Vineyard Brands importer I'd chatted with.
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2009 Francois Carillon Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Combettes 92 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
Nose quite similar to the Champs Gain, but a touch less poise and cut on palate. Still great.
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2009 Francois Carillon Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Perrières
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
Less enticing than the Combettes and Champs Gain, leesy beery a touch.
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2010 Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon Mâcon-Chardonnay Clos de la Crochette
France, Burgundy, Mâconnais, Mâcon-Chardonnay
Nose of stone, oak, limestone minerality evocative almost of Chablis. On palate: meh: no midpalate? Not too pleasant in my estimation.
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2009 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault Clos de la Barre
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault
Minerally nose with French oak; bit of an aroma of a winemaker's cave; neutral and closed up. Palate is searingly acidic, almost bilic. Will likely require time to calm down. The residual aroma in the glass was great, and promising.
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2009 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault 1er Cru Charmes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Oak is more pronounced here for now than on the Clos de la Barre. Palate shows a lemony oak character. Needs time.
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2009 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Volnay 1er Cru Santenots-Du-Milieu
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
Very, very sweet nose: too much? Some greenness. Palate is searingly acidic, tannic. Still very carbonic. Will need a long time, I figure. Wouldn't touch these now under pain of death.
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2009 Domaine Roulot Bourgogne Blanc 91 Points
France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Blanc
The Roulots poured were surprisingly cold to me. This wine is a consistent QPR in my experience. Beautiful mineral and stone nose. Palate like a fresh corn and spring water affair. Lovely as always.
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2009 Domaine Roulot Meursault Les Meix Chavaux 88 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault
Same consistent mineral/stone and fresh corn on the nose as with most Roulots tasted today. This wine's palate was a bit rusty oxidative and caramel to me. Pretty finish all the same.
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2009 Domaine Roulot Meursault Les Tillets 91 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault
The 08 Tillets blew my mind during the last Paulée with an amazing minerally asphalt aroma I found exceedingly alluring. This vintage only shows that a tiny bit, and has more of the cool spring water and clean minerally character proper to all Roulot whites.
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2009 Domaine Roulot Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières 90 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
As they warmed, the oak peeked out on these wines (not surprisingly). The nose on this particular wine was a lemony oak that followed through to the palate with some nice green flecks.
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2009 Domaine Rodolphe Demougeot Meursault 88 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault
A fairly minerally and oaky nose. Palate seems short on acid? Round, nice all the same.
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2009 Domaine Bitouzet-Prieur Meursault Les Corbins
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault
Very, very difficult to get an accurate read on this wine in the blink of time I had with it. Nose is like some clean asphalt a touch, with a pretty mineral component; but it seemed a bit empty on the midpalate after that. At first the palate seemed flabby and unstructured, but just when I was ready to write it off, the finish bought along a tiny apple pie in hand to the dinner party, perhaps embellished with a touch of caramel. Definitely the less acidic and round side of Meursault, and that worries me a bit, but all in all I'd like to get into a bottle of this and see how it behaves.
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2009 Pierre Morey Meursault Les Tessons 91 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault
Super pretty clean mineral, clean cotton laundry nose. Palate has some sweet caramel behind it, more apples, and a nice round character. Lovely.
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2009 Domaine Sébastien Magnien Meursault Les Meix Chavaux
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault
Nose was tight with a clean acid announced up front. Palate was "meh".
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2009 Domaine Rémi Jobard Meursault 1er Cru Les Genevrières
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Pretty, lemon nose. Palate had good acid, but came across as somewhat generic--or, should I say, "foursquare"?
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2009 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
As with the 08, I was unable to dedicate enough time to this wine to coax the subtler elements out; the 09 comes across as more oaky than the 08, but still seems a classic white Burg that at this point seems underdeveloped? Surprising acid on the 09 vs the 08.
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2008 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
Nose has a light, oaky lemon character with a nice mineral component. On the palate, it came across as a classic white Burg--perhaps too classic? As Michael Madrigale was "two-fisted" pouring the 08 and 09, he recommended spending at least a half hour with the wines to watch them unfurl. I'd've loved to, if not for my compulsion to race about to other tables to taste and discover other producers' wines. Was so excited to try these mythic wines, but only managed to coax out a superficial level.
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2009 Benjamin Leroux Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Embazées 92 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
Nose is bright and clean with cut. Palate was great with a subtle apple component. This was fantastic, as was the Meursault Porusot. I was stunned by the disjunction between the reds and whites; the whites were elegant to my mind, but the reds were either flawed or modern and unappealing to me.
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2009 Benjamin Leroux Meursault 1er Cru Le Porusot 92 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Nose is lovely, palate had fantastic fresh malic fruit and a bit of honey. Very impressed with this.
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2009 Benjamin Leroux Volnay 1er Cru Les Mitans Flawed
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
Very convinced this must've been an off bottle, as the nose was a dead ringer for a barnyardy Loire Cab Franc. Didn't even bother to taste.
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2009 Benjamin Leroux Clos St. Denis
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos St. Denis Grand Cru
Nose had bacon and cedar, felt painfully modern. Palate was angular and bitter.
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2009 Domaine Michel Lafarge Beaune 1er Cru Les Aigrots Blanc 93 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru
Oh dear Lord, I have confirmed my new vinous lover, and it is Beaune blanc. I'd tasted the 2010 in barrel at the Lafarges last year, and it blew my mind with its floral character. This 09 has a nose of nutmeg, mint, honey and talc. Even if it dips a bit in the midpalate and finishes a touch dilute, it's still mind-blowing in my estimation.
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2009 Domaine Michel Lafarge Volnay Vendanges Sélectionnées
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay
This showed carbonic, tense, tannic and backward to me. Will obviously need time to calm down.
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2009 Domaine Michel Lafarge Volnay 1er Cru Les Mitans
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
Nose is tightly coiled and unexpressive. Palate is elegant, restrained, and I fought to coax out a sweet leathery cedar aroma. Finished a touch apple-y, nice albeit bitter finish. This'll doubtless be great with time.
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2009 Domaine Michel Lafarge Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
Surprisingly open for a Clos des Chênes at this point, if tannic--still hasn't closed down. Palate was tannic and cedar a touch. Nevertheless very subtle at this juncture.
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2009 La Pousse d'Or Chambolle-Musigny
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny
Maybe a flawed bottle on my pour. This was the funniest wine of the Paulée to me, as the nose was evocative of dirty underwear a bit. Green a touch, as well (perhaps stems). The palate showed green pepper, and was cool and smooth textured. I'd've given 87/88 but didn't feel I could get a solid read on this wine.
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2009 La Pousse d'Or Volnay 1er Cru Les Caillerets
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
This wine's nose is thankfully far less barnyardy than the Chambolle villages, sweet vinyl and a tiny bit of heat announced up front, along with a bit of Play Doh aroma. The palate had a cool blueberry and raspberry character with a nice acid. 89/90?
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2009 La Pousse d'Or Volnay 1er Cru Clos de la Bousse d'Or
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
Sweeter, clean barnyard nose (oxymoronic, I know, but it made sense at the time). Palate is nice and even cooler than the Volnay En Caillerets. 90?
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2009 La Pousse d'Or Volnay 1er Cru Clos des 60 Ouvrées
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
The nose on this was even more restrained than all other wines; nice, soft with a wisp of celery salt as a vegetal component. Palate is surprisingly heavy a bit given the nose, quite acidic at this point. May just grow to be my favorite of all tasted. 91?
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2009 Louis Jadot Clos Vougeot
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
Nose is sweet, stemmy, a nice asphalt aroma; palate is vinyl/phenolically ripe, biting tannic, but with a stunning beautiful cherry finish. 92/93 with time.
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2009 Joseph Drouhin Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Mouches Blanc 92 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru
Just across from Les Aigrots, and stunningly similar, this is my new obsession: Beaune blanc. This wine was like a fresh tarte tatin. Flowers, limestone minerality evocative of Chablis to me, honey, fresh malic fruit acid. Dips in the midpalate as did the Lafarge Aigrots, and finishes sweet and round in a manner that suggests it might need acid, but all the same: I could bathe in this for days.
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2009 Marquis de Laguiche (Joseph Drouhin) Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
Nose is so very minerally, thankfully not overoaked. Palate is sweet, and the oak peeks up a touch.
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2009 Joseph Drouhin Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Mouches Rouge
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru
Nose came across as sweet as a Beaujolais, and barnyardy to boot! Palate was sweet and asphalt, bitter, a resounding meh in my opinion.
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2009 Joseph Drouhin Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Baudes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
A tiny bit less sweet than the Clos des Mouches, this wine also had a strange aroma I'd describe as a dirty metallic aroma (imagine coins). Not to my liking. The whites truly outshined the reds, in a painful manner.
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2009 Faiveley Beaune 1er Cru Clos de l'Ecu
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru
Bitter, backward, and acidic. Couldn't get a read on this at this point.
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2009 Faiveley Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Damodes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru
This very "à la mode" parcel (lame pun intended) was by far my favorite Faiveley poured today. It had ripe dark fruit, and a skunky character I enjoyed. The palate was surprisingly thin but aromatically dense, and the wine was a bit furtive once on the palate. 89/90 for where it is now?
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2009 Faiveley Corton-Clos des Cortons Faiveley
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru
Nose is sweet yet restrained. Palate is light (as is proper to a young Corton in my experience) and closed, a bit of formic acid on the finish. Will probably grow up to be fantastic a decade or so from now.
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2009 Faiveley Mazis-Chambertin
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru
Great nose with a skunky, sweet licorice character. Fairly restrained all the same. Palate is sweet, bitter, will probably be fantastic down the line.
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2009 Camille Giroud Santenay 1er Cru Clos Rousseau
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Santenay 1er Cru
Sweet and furtive. Too coiled.
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2009 Camille Giroud Beaune 1er Cru Cent-Vignes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru
Was so very excited to try this, as the 2006 blew my mind a few years back and I never forgot it. This was very different, and quite honestly disappointing, as the nose had no high-toned fruit to speak of and a dirty rusty character. The palate was nicer than the nose, but this was still quite strange.
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2009 Camille Giroud Vosne-Romanée
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée
Nose of laundry powder, green pepper a touch. Palate is all acid, not poised. Will require time if it is to sort itself out.
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2009 Camille Giroud Chambertin 93 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin Grand Cru
Wow, here is a great wine. Sweet skunky nose, very alluring. Palate is surprisingly light. Man, I'd love a case of this to have my way with and cellar.
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2009 Domaine Henri Gouges Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Pruliers
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru
Nose seemed to show some reduction? Buttery pepper steak a bit. Palate is sweet, light and poised. I enjoyed all the Gouges NSGs today. 90?
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2009 Domaine Henri Gouges Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Chaignots
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru
This wine really grabbed a hold of Jane and I with its disarming leathery, earthy, funky character. Asphalt a bit. Palate is peppery and light, more green funk, finishes almost Rhone-y? Henri Gouges agreed this was the king of the lineup, and it stood out from the others. Not the most elegant, but the most memorable. 91/92?
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2009 Domaine Henri Gouges Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Clos des Porrets St. Georges
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru
Nose had some dirty butter; reductive? Palate had good acid, pepper; after all is said and done, it finishes quite acid, however.
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2009 Domaine Henri Gouges Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Vaucrains
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru
Here is the most elegant of all Gouges NSGs poured today. The nose exudes elegance, with an almost spicy cologne character. Such balance and poise on the palate. Chewy, but light and supple. 91?
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2009 Méo-Camuzet Frère et Sœurs Fixin 1er Cru Clos du Chapitre
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Fixin 1er Cru
I love Méo Camuzet to death, and am a believer in their Philibert monopole. The 09 wines poured today, however, were very tightly coiled and gave up so very little. This Fixin was an exception, but had a character that I found far too sweet along with a bit of heat. Palate had good acid. 87?
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2009 Domaine Méo-Camuzet Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Chaumes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
Nose was thankfully much cooler and less ripe than the Fixin, but so closed. A tiny bit of heat on the finish.
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2009 Domaine Méo-Camuzet Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Aux Murgers
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru
Again, as with others, closed tight, and just a tiny bit hot on the tail.
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2009 Domaine Méo-Camuzet Corton-Perrières
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru
This was more alluring than most other Méos poured today. Nose was a bit green and stemmy (in a good way), and the palate showed a slight oak and tannic character with a tiny hint of drying cedar, but was fresh and supple. 89?
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2009 Domaine Marc Roy Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin
Nose is a huge oaky cedar affair. Lots of carbonic sweetness residue on this as with most Roy wines poured today. Palate follows through with oak, pepper, and a touch of barnyard. Alexandrine noted they perform 100% destemming, which should technically prevent whole cluster fermentation from allowing carbonic to occur, so: I'm at a complete loss as to how these wines showed with such a sweet Bojo-style aroma. I don't know where these wines are headed, and was really taken aback by the oak and barnyard aromas.
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2009 Domaine Marc Roy Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Prieur
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin
Similar peppery acid, barnyard, and oak as in the GC VV. Don't know what the deal is here. Will time help?
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2009 Domaine Marc Roy Gevrey-Chambertin Cuvée Alexandrine
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin
Easily the most alluring wine poured among the Roy lineup today. Thankfully devoid of barnyard aromas, palate gave up some skunk and asphalt (of which I am nearly always a fan; others often label these aromas simply as "earthy").
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2009 Domaine Marc Roy Marsannay Les Champs Perdrix Blanc
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Marsannay
Okay, there's white Marsannay. Who knew. This wine's nose had a sweet, elegant oak, but the oak really poked out too far on the palate, even if it retained some poise. Finished rather acidic, perhaps there's some hope it'll integrate in the next 2 or 3 years?
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2009 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Goulots Vieille Vigne
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
As with all Fourrier wines, an almost universally noted cherry character. This wine's nose was sweet yet classy, high-toned, and very Gevrey as it showed a bit of earthy funk in an aroma I found to be like a dirty leather alongside a tiny bit of barnyard. The palate was cool and skunky a bit, acidic yet sweet. Very, very impressed with Fourrier, and complemented him on the cool character of his wines, as I was worried about 09 given the heat and these were some of the first wines I'd tried, and they were thankfully devoid of heat and sugar. He explained it had become common practice among many other growers to remove leaves from the canopy during the last critical ripening phases, and that drove up sugar levels and drained acid--but that he had steered clear of that error. 91?
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2009 Domaine Fourrier Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Gruenchers Vieille Vigne
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
Nose is a bit green and rusty, tons of sweet, dark cherry. Palate is cool but sweet, a tiny bit funky and bitter. 92?
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2009 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques Vieille Vigne
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Similar nose to the Chambolle Gruenchers, green and rusty a touch; this wine shows a tiny bit of vinyl which I presume is super phenolically ripe grapes. The palate was sweet but the finish is clipped at this point, and this was surprisingly the least impressive of the Fourriers tasted (surprising as it's such a reputed parcel for this producer).
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2009 Domaine Fourrier Griotte-Chambertin Vieille Vigne
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru
Beautiful fresh dark cherries, a tiny bit of vinyl, fresh blueberry on the nose. Palate is super cool and laid back, fresh, and Fourrier's use of carbonic is a resounding success here. Tiny bit of a bitter finish, but this was just great. 92?
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2009 Hospices de Beaune Meursault 1er Cru Les Genevrières
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Sweet and slightly formic oaky nose. Palate is very cool, oaky but classy with a nice apple character. 91?
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2009 Hospices de Beaune Beaune 1er Cru Cuvée Nicolas Rolin
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru
Nose is slightly carbonic and woody, great all the same. On the palate, it's angular, with tannins and almost a graphite character.
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2009 Hospices de Beaune Pommard 1er Cru Les Épenots Cuvée Dom Goblet
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Pommard 1er Cru
Super young. Again, still bearing traces of a carbonic phase. Palate is tannic, bitter, leathery a bit but it boasts a great supple texture. Nice.
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