2010 Bordeaux En Primeur

Bordeaux
Tasted Sunday, April 3, 2011 - Monday, April 4, 2011 by dcwino with 3,163 views

Introduction

The 2010s show incredibly concentrated sweet fruit, high level of glycerin and noticeable tannins which makes the wines hard to evaluate. Based on small sample of the classified growths I am not quite sure whether I would have rated first growth clearly higher than the rest if I were to tasted blind. In terms of the right bank wines, there were several that were very special, ie very complex fruit expression and seamless silky palate.

Flight 1 - Chateau Valandraud (5 Notes)

As usual we were at the right bank on Sunday. Francois picked Kelly and I up and we had an impromptu visit at Chateau Valandraud.

Flight 2 - Circle de Rive Droite tasting (18 Notes)

During the EP, you have to taste like speedy Gonzalez. After a short session at Chateau Valandraud, we headed to Circle de Rive Droite tasting. We didn’t have much time but Kelly and I decided to taste the wines blind. There were 150 plus wines so we decided to taste St Emillion Grand Cru. We were only managed to taste 18 wines. In lieu of the very short time I was happy with the way I assess the wines. Chateau Château Péby Faugères really stood out as a step up from the others.

Flight 3 - Chateau Le Gay (5 Notes)

The lunch was held at Chateau Le Gay. We were greeted by always charming Madame Catherine Pere-Verge. As usual, she served a great home cooked lunch, a nice plate of incredibly silky foie gras torchon and tasty French jambon followed by a delicious lamb stew with pearl onions. She poured the 08 Minor de gay which was tasty, the 06 Le Gay which was surprisingly open and good then the 00 and the 90 Le gay both meriting around mid 90s.

Flight 4 - Chateau de Pressac - Double Blind with four ringers (25 Notes)

Francois informed us that there will be a mini GJE session a few weeks back. We arrived at Chateau de Pressac, an impressive Chateau where we held the tasting. Francois told us that there is a surprise; double blind with four ringers. I started to regret what I had for lunch; a thick slice of foie gras torchon, a several slices of jambon, two servings of lamb stew, three Cannelés and a large piece of chocolate cake and a cup of double espresso.

I had a really bad sinus cold last year which lasted a couple months where I could not smell at all. A couple doctor friends told me that I could permanently lose my sense to smell which was really scary. BTW despite my passion for wine if I have to lose one sense it would be smell.

I have been tasting wine pretty well and I thought I got at least two or three right. When Francois announced that I got all four, I was extremely happy and relieved. My fellow GJE members Laurent Vialette and Christian Rogers got three each as well as one other GJE member. We also had to guess the vintage and the region and I guessed the 2005 and the right bank. It was the 2008 right banks mostly.

Flight 5 - Chateau Angelus (4 Notes)

A short stop over to taste a few wines.

Flight 6 - Chateau Pavie (5 Notes)

Most of Perse’s wines show as usual impressive concentrated fruit with a hint of licorice. I noticed very high level of tannins, eg after tasting Chateau Pavie Decesse my tongue got numb. I dare say these wines are bigger than the 05s.

  • 2010 Clos Lunelles 88 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux

    (4/3/2011)

    Too extracted, sweet fruit, hollow mid palate, bit hot 87-89 pts

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  • 2010 Château Monbousquet 92 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru

    (4/3/2011)

    cassis, excellent concentration, very ripe fruit, the fruit expression straight 91-93 pts

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  • 2010 Château Pavie Decesse 94 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru

    (4/3/2011)

    Mostly black fruits, cassis, licorice, very ripe fruit expression, somewaht closed, incredible amount of sandy tannins, not enjoyable to taste at the moment 93-95 pts

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  • 2010 Château Bellevue Mondotte 96 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru

    (4/3/2011)

    Even bigger than Pavie Decesse, more open and fresher fruit as well, blueberry compotes, coffee, mocha, excellent concentration, noticeable sandy tannins 95-97 pts.

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  • 2010 Château Pavie 98 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru

    (4/3/2011)

    More civilized than the Bellevue, complex fruit expression, polished black fruits, exceptional concentration, silky tannins and long length, the tannins are noticeable but much more civil than the Bellevue 97-99 pts

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Flight 7 - Chateau La Gaffeliere (23 Notes)

Our final stop to taste the wines that Stephane Derenoncourt consults. I really like what Stephane is doing with the various properties as he really is making the wines that respect unique terroirs, ie the fruit concentration and style varies quite a bit. BTW Beausejour Duffau produced another monumental wine that is very similar to the 09.

Flight 8 - Chateau La Mission Haut Brion (7 Notes)

The wines of Haut Brion are bigger, fresher and more masculine than last year. IMO, the 10 LMHB is a tour de force as Bob like to say where the 10 Haut Brion is more polished.

  • 2010 Château La Mission Haut-Brion La Chapelle de La Mission Haut-Brion 91 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    (4/4/2011)

    A hint of smoke, licorice, sweet fruit, quite tannic, some heat at the end. Very similar nose as the big brother but a lot less material. 90-92 pts

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  • 2010 Le Clarence de Haut-Brion 92 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    (4/4/2011)

    The fruit expression is fresher, crushed blueberries and tannins better integrated than the 10 La Chapell. Nice silky palate, good length. 91-93 pts

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  • 2010 Château La Mission Haut-Brion 96 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    (4/4/2011)

    Very flowery, violet, already showing the terroir, earth, fresh black current, licorice, excellent concentration, big scale wine. The wine displays more black fruit and masculinity than the 10 Haut Brion which I definitely preferred. I can't rate this wine any higher based on the wine, perhaps some tasters will rate close to 100 based on the track record. 95-97 pts

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  • 2010 Château Haut-Brion 98 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    (4/4/2011)

    Blueberry compote, crushed rock, black truffle, a slight hint of licorice, a bit of oak showing. The nose expression is more polished and complex than the 10 LMHB. The palate seems more like a top Pomerol with extreme silkiness and decadence except the tannin surfacing as the end note. Perhaps knowing what it is, the wine seems very noble. It has uncanny resemblance to the 09 with a bit more power and tannin. 97-99 pts
    For the next 20 years I would prefer the 09s.

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  • 2010 La Clarté de Haut-Brion Blanc 92 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    (4/4/2011)

    Pear, mineral, beeswax, fresh fruit, hint of smoke, forward fruit, good concentration, open for business 91-93 pts

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  • 2010 Château La Mission Haut-Brion Blanc 96 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    (4/4/2011)

    White pepper, bright acidity, beautiful complex nose, understated expensive perfume, excellent concentration, fat and long finish. 95-97 pts

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  • 2010 Château Haut-Brion Blanc 97 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    (4/3/2011)

    Reserved nose, more polished but not as expressive nose than the 10 LMHB blanc. Pear, white pepper, exceptional concentration, unctuous, long length. 96-98 pts.

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Flight 9 - Chateau Pape Clement (8 Notes)

Another quick stop over. All the wines were showing Michel Rolland’s signature, very ripe, big, lush, jammy and very well integrated tannins except the Fombrouges. Based on my 09 EP TNs, I preferred the 09 PC, MF and PC blanc by a point or two. I rated the 10 La Tour Carnet and the Les Grand Chenes the same as the 09s with similar TNs. These two wines are well made wines that represent very good value.

  • 2010 Bernard Magrez Cabernet Sauvignon 91 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    (4/4/2011)

    Borderline over ripeness, excellent concentration, noticeable alcohol, will this settle? 90-92 pts

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  • 2010 Château Magrez Fombrauge 94 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru

    (4/4/2011)

    Crushed blackberries, licorice, very ripe fruit, big scale wine, surprisingly noticeable tannins at the end. Not as polished as the 09. I would rather buy the 09 not knowing how the wine will age for 10+ years. 93-95 pts

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  • 2010 Château Fombrauge 91 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru

    (4/4/2011)

    Very similar to the Magrez Fombrouge but not as sexy as some would like to describe, ripe fruit expression, silky palate and noticeable tannins. This and the Magrez Fombrouge are the only two wines with noticeable tannins amongst the Magrez Bordeaux portfolio. 90-92 pts

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  • 2010 Château Les Grands Chênes 93 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc

    (4/4/2011)

    Cool fruit expression, blue fruit, silky palate, excellent concentration, excellent length, very well made wine. Coincidently my rating for the 09 during the EP is the same and very similar notes. This and La Tour Carnet represent excellent value. A crowd pleaser.

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  • 2010 Château La Tour Carnet 93 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Haut-Médoc

    (4/4/2011)

    Very well made wine, jammy silky fruit, excellent concentration, very approachable and delicious 92-94 pts
    * Coincidently my rating for the 09 during the EP is the same and very similar notes. A crowd pleaser.

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  • 2010 Château Pape Clément Clémentin de Pape Clément 93 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    (4/4/2011)

    Surprisingly complex nose and concentration, smoke, allspice, blackberry jam, licorice, not as polish as the first wine but excellent. 92-94 pts.

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  • 2010 Château Pape Clément 97 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    (4/4/2011)

    Fresh fruit expression, blueberry compote, sweet fruit, excellent concentration, decadent wine but not overdone, excellent balance, integrated tannins but not as sensual textually as the 09. 96-98 pts

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  • 2010 Château Pape Clément Blanc 95 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    (4/4/2011)

    Very ripe fruit expression, yellow fruit, meyer lemon, good acidity to counter balance sweet fruit, not showing minerality like the wines of Haut Brion 94-96 pts

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Flight 10 - Chateau Lascombes and Chateau Rauzan Segla (2 Notes)

Our lunch was at Chateau Lascomes and had a quick stop over at Chateau Rauzan Gassies to taste the 10 Rauzan Segla.

Flight 11 - Chateau Margaux (3 Notes)

Flight 12 - Chateau Leoville Poyferre and Chateau Pichon Longueville (7 Notes)

Flight 13 - Chateau Mouton Rothschild (3 Notes)

My last stop of the 10 EP before flying back home. GJE’s Lafite appointment was scheduled for the next day so no visit to Lafite and Latour.

  • 2010 Château d'Armailhac 91 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    (4/4/2011)

    Fresh blueberries, cedar, silky palate, good concentration, the fruit expression not too complex 90-92 pts

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  • 2010 Château Clerc Milon 94 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    (4/4/2011)

    Very impressive showing, blueberry compote, jammy but fresh fruit expression, excellent concentration 93-95 pts

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  • 2010 Château Mouton Rothschild 100 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    (4/4/2011)

    Expensive perfume, salted toffee, blue to black fruits, excellent concentration but the perfect balance makes the wine very delicate and decadent, very well integrated tannins, reminded me the 09 Lafite in that the 10 Mouton displayed great inner energy while maintaining incredible elegance. I expected the least from the 10 first growth but rated the best. Lafite and Latour not tasted. 99-100 pts

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Closing

It is a great vintage to buy the sub $30 wines from the right bank. If you plan to open the wines young and the top 40s in the next twenty years, I would go with the 09s as they will always drink well.

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